Search results for "Construction zone" in Home Design Ideas

This proposal is for a new two-story home on the vacant heavily wooded lot with an existing 150-foot-long driveway lined by several beautiful oak trees culminating in a behemoth 43-inch oak tree where the driveway meets the main lot. The far end of the driveway terminates in a grove of three 43/40/43-inch redwoods and at the very center of the vacant lot stands a gargantuan V-twin 59-inch redwood tree paired with a “small” 29-inch redwood tree. The owners want to build a beautiful contemporary-styled home for their family that fully enjoys and embraces the mature trees on their cozy 65-foot by 100-foot lot.
As with all small, constrained lots, this project’s site design started first with meeting the relatively large parking and car maneuvering requirements. Menlo Park’s Department of Transportation typically requires side-facing garages to have 24-feet of backup space. So that they could give the largest feature redwood tree on site an added four feet (50%) of clearance outside of its critical root zone, the owners agreed to install a vehicle turntable at the end of their driveway to eliminate the extra four feet of space needed to back up and turnaround. This allowed them to pull their garage forward an additional four feet towards the front property line on the panhandle side, drastically reducing the rest of the home’s impact on the gargantuan V-Twin paired redwood tree at the center of the lot.
One of the owners has mobility issues, and accordingly, they first sought to design a one-story floor plan that incorporated all their family’s needs including plenty of covered patio and deck space to enjoy our fantastic California weather. But that single-story footprint spread too far into the critical root zones of several of the redwood trees on site, even despite the use of the vehicle turntable. During my interview process with the owners, they made it clear to me that one of their primary concerns is ensuring that the largest trees on site would thrive and become features of their new home after construction is complete. The single-story designs that removed the grove of three huge redwood trees were non-starters, as was the skimpy 5x10 master bath I designed when trying to squeeze the whole house program into an overly compromised single-story design. It was therefore deemed necessary to go with a two-story design despite the owner’s mobility issues. This two-story design has a much more compact ground floor footprint and has no bedrooms downstairs, other than the detached ADU. The owners must give up the floor area and incur the costs to install a residential elevator to access their upstairs master suite.
Our ground floor footprint is smaller due to the two-story design decision, and our foundation is pulled away from the trees thanks to the vehicle turntable. Yet, a tiny portion of the home’s ground floor footprint still encroaches into the critical root zones of the largest 59” redwood tree. Therefore, as outlined in the Arborist Report prepared by Aesculus Arboricultural Consulting, the structural engineers are incorporating an array of drilled piers and shallow-grade beams for the main home’s foundation and deck area nearest the redwood’s critical root zone. This drilled piers and grade beam foundation is a type of “bridging” foundation as outlined in Aesculus’ report to preserve the health of these trees that the property was designed around. The rest of the foundation will be constructed as an insulated slab-on-grade foundation to minimize the number of steps and ramps needed for the owners to enjoy their home and patio areas.
Despite the owner’s desire to keep as many trees as possible on site, and despite the smaller ground floor footprint and the advantage of the vehicle turntable, the need for a 20x20-foot garage and 20x20/25-foot guest parking space on our panhandle lot requires the removal of two heritage trees in the required driveway, a 16” coast redwood, and a 17” coast redwood. An alternate design, such as swapping the garage and guest parking locations north-to-south, still requires the removal of these two trees for vehicle maneuvering but has the added disadvantage of cutting off the home’s sightlines to the behemoth 43” oak tree just outside the currently proposed front patio space and living room. Jim Redman of Elements Landscape is proposing 13 new trees be planted on site to replace the lost value of these two heritage coast redwood trees.
This contemporary architectural design features clean lines, and an abundance of full-height windows and large skylights to best take in the immense trees on site. To blend in with the forest-like setting, the home boasts a mix of rich textures and features a color palette of natural wood tones contrasted with dark blue and black. Once through the new steel gate at the street and down the 150-foot tree-lined driveway, a large covered front patio becomes visible past the neighbor’s detached accessory structure. The covered patio is just across the driveway from the beautiful 43” behemoth coast live oak. The single plane of the covered patio roof is delicately supported by a pair of steel posts in a “V-twin” configuration much like the largest redwood trees that tower over the center of the lot and will still be visible above the new two-story home, even from the front yard. The patio is covered in a dark-colored standing seam roof, with steel C-channel fascias, and tongue-and-groove wood ceiling planks on the underside. Generously sized skylights on the patio roof and inside the living area allow for impressive views of the amazing oak canopy as well as precious natural light.
Supporting the sloped covered patio on the other side is the two-car garage with a secondary bedroom suite stacked above the garage. This two-story volume is to be clad in vertical clear-coated redwood siding, to tie in with the grove of three 43-inch redwood trees just beyond. The garage door, and the bank of windows for Bedroom#2 above feature a steel fascia eyebrow header feature to provide shade and overhang protection, as we are not proposing a large overhang at this “redwood trunk”. The garage and bedroom volume are pulled 16 feet away from the side property line, instead of the minimum required setback of 6’-6”, thus leaving plenty of room for the redwood grove and existing mature pear tree to continue to thrive. This existing mature green screen in this 16-foot-wide side yard is a feature worth soaking in, which is why tall windows with low sill heights are proposed for both the stairs and the upstairs hallway. Though it may be infrequent to approve side-facing 2nd floor windows with sill heights as low as what we’re proposing, we are confident that the mature green screen and the over 16-foot-wide side yard are sufficient to provide for the continued privacy of our neighbor’s rear yard space, especially considering theses windows are in walkway zones.
The covered patio at the front entry is also bound by the 10-foot-tall living room. The great room is clad in a dark blue brick veneer, which wraps around all three sides of the living room. Upon entering the home from the covered patio, you are immediately greeted with one of the most impressive features of the home’s design: a 10-foot-tall by 24-foot-wide set of sliding glass doors. From the entry, this huge opening gives merely an initial glimpse of the massive trunks of the gargantuan V-twin redwoods sitting at the center of the lot. All three sliding glass panels open directly out into the smaller partially covered deck in the rear. This roof overhang element matches the design of the front patio with a steel C-channel fascia and a large skylight. But the rear deck’s roof element is set flat at a ten-foot ceiling height so that the living room’s ceiling seems to float above and out beyond the expanse of full-height sliding doors, thus creating an indoor-outdoor living space that will feel much larger than the home’s actual footprint. This rear covered deck is smaller than the patio in the front and also has a mix of solid and open-slatted roofing to allow for more solar access for the relatively small amount of open sky available.
The downstairs living room is open to the dining and kitchen areas, as well as the stair-and-elevator tower beyond. The stair tower is very open and glassy, and the stairs wind up and around the redwood-clad elevator tower. From certain perspectives in the 16-foot-wide side yard, it will almost seem as if the grove of three redwoods has a fourth tree that the house and the stairs were carefully built around. Other than the 3-foot-wide windows, the exterior walls of the stair tower, downstairs utility spaces, and Bedroom#3 above are finished in cement plaster, painted dark blue and black. The sloped roof over the stair-and-elevator tower continues cleanly over the area of upstairs Bedroom#3. This roof level is set by the side daylight plane and only yields an inside wall height of just under 6 feet in height. The owners are satisfied that the rest of this upstairs room has a nice vaulted ceiling to make up for the one short wall under the daylight plane.
The rest of the ground floor adjacent to the stair tower consists of a small utility wing containing a half-bath, laundry, storage area, and an exterior alcove for the electric heat pump HVAC unit. This short wing also gives more accessible access to the rear yard deck, as well as a backdrop for an outdoor kitchen. The bright white stone backsplash for the outdoor kitchen provides contrast to the otherwise consistent use of cement plaster painted dark blue and black for the two-story wing closest to the detached ADU. Though Bedroom#3 is stacked directly above this small wing, it is relatively short to comply with the side daylight plane of this narrow lot. Still, to further help break up the scale of this wall, another steel fascia eyebrow element is set about 8 feet above the rear deck.
The master suite sits centered above the ten-foot-tall great room. The master bedroom and its balcony, as well as the master bathtub area, have a commanding view of the central redwood trees and their impressive canopy, though the balcony is mostly recessed and should pose no privacy concerns to the neighbor’s rear yards. The master balcony parapet is clad in the same brick veneer continuing up from the living room below. A dark-painted metal rail makes up the rest of the open guardrail height. The entire length of the master balcony is comprised of 9-foot-tall sliding glass doors, but the area above the doors, as well as the area below the master bathroom windows, is accented with more redwood siding. The remainder of the master suite bathroom and walk-in closet is finished in cement plaster painted dark blue. The master bathroom has one side yard-facing window but will be frosted glass for both the owner’s and the neighbor’s privacy.
The 2nd floor is capped under a simple gable roof design with one roof ridge and varying eave and rake overhangs depending on the 2nd-floor layout and solar orientation. Since these roof planes are quite difficult to see in the middle of the heavily wooded panhandle lot, we are proposing a white TPO roofing for these two upper roof planes as a more sustainable choice compared to more dark-colored roofing like the covered patios and detached ADU.
The owners also wish to build a detached 292-square-foot Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) as an office and guest suite. For the ADU foundation to be situated outside the central redwood tree’s critical root zone, this relatively tiny structure takes advantage of the narrower 4-foot side and rear setbacks allowed for ADUs smaller than 800 square feet. The small L-shaped detached ADU frames a wonderful quasi-courtyard around the gargantuan V-twin redwoods at the center of the lot. The ADU shares a matching material palette consisting of cement plaster painted blue and black, vertical redwood siding and soffits, and thin brick veneer. The ADU also features large full-height windows. The only difference between the main home and the ADU material palette is that the roofing will be a dark composition shingle roofing since it will be quite visible from the master balcony.

This proposal is for a new two-story home on the vacant heavily wooded lot with an existing 150-foot-long driveway lined by several beautiful oak trees culminating in a behemoth 43-inch oak tree where the driveway meets the main lot. The far end of the driveway terminates in a grove of three 43/40/43-inch redwoods and at the very center of the vacant lot stands a gargantuan V-twin 59-inch redwood tree paired with a “small” 29-inch redwood tree. The owners want to build a beautiful contemporary-styled home for their family that fully enjoys and embraces the mature trees on their cozy 65-foot by 100-foot lot.
As with all small, constrained lots, this project’s site design started first with meeting the relatively large parking and car maneuvering requirements. Menlo Park’s Department of Transportation typically requires side-facing garages to have 24-feet of backup space. So that they could give the largest feature redwood tree on site an added four feet (50%) of clearance outside of its critical root zone, the owners agreed to install a vehicle turntable at the end of their driveway to eliminate the extra four feet of space needed to back up and turnaround. This allowed them to pull their garage forward an additional four feet towards the front property line on the panhandle side, drastically reducing the rest of the home’s impact on the gargantuan V-Twin paired redwood tree at the center of the lot.
One of the owners has mobility issues, and accordingly, they first sought to design a one-story floor plan that incorporated all their family’s needs including plenty of covered patio and deck space to enjoy our fantastic California weather. But that single-story footprint spread too far into the critical root zones of several of the redwood trees on site, even despite the use of the vehicle turntable. During my interview process with the owners, they made it clear to me that one of their primary concerns is ensuring that the largest trees on site would thrive and become features of their new home after construction is complete. The single-story designs that removed the grove of three huge redwood trees were non-starters, as was the skimpy 5x10 master bath I designed when trying to squeeze the whole house program into an overly compromised single-story design. It was therefore deemed necessary to go with a two-story design despite the owner’s mobility issues. This two-story design has a much more compact ground floor footprint and has no bedrooms downstairs, other than the detached ADU. The owners must give up the floor area and incur the costs to install a residential elevator to access their upstairs master suite.
Our ground floor footprint is smaller due to the two-story design decision, and our foundation is pulled away from the trees thanks to the vehicle turntable. Yet, a tiny portion of the home’s ground floor footprint still encroaches into the critical root zones of the largest 59” redwood tree. Therefore, as outlined in the Arborist Report prepared by Aesculus Arboricultural Consulting, the structural engineers are incorporating an array of drilled piers and shallow-grade beams for the main home’s foundation and deck area nearest the redwood’s critical root zone. This drilled piers and grade beam foundation is a type of “bridging” foundation as outlined in Aesculus’ report to preserve the health of these trees that the property was designed around. The rest of the foundation will be constructed as an insulated slab-on-grade foundation to minimize the number of steps and ramps needed for the owners to enjoy their home and patio areas.
Despite the owner’s desire to keep as many trees as possible on site, and despite the smaller ground floor footprint and the advantage of the vehicle turntable, the need for a 20x20-foot garage and 20x20/25-foot guest parking space on our panhandle lot requires the removal of two heritage trees in the required driveway, a 16” coast redwood, and a 17” coast redwood. An alternate design, such as swapping the garage and guest parking locations north-to-south, still requires the removal of these two trees for vehicle maneuvering but has the added disadvantage of cutting off the home’s sightlines to the behemoth 43” oak tree just outside the currently proposed front patio space and living room. Jim Redman of Elements Landscape is proposing 13 new trees be planted on site to replace the lost value of these two heritage coast redwood trees.
This contemporary architectural design features clean lines, and an abundance of full-height windows and large skylights to best take in the immense trees on site. To blend in with the forest-like setting, the home boasts a mix of rich textures and features a color palette of natural wood tones contrasted with dark blue and black. Once through the new steel gate at the street and down the 150-foot tree-lined driveway, a large covered front patio becomes visible past the neighbor’s detached accessory structure. The covered patio is just across the driveway from the beautiful 43” behemoth coast live oak. The single plane of the covered patio roof is delicately supported by a pair of steel posts in a “V-twin” configuration much like the largest redwood trees that tower over the center of the lot and will still be visible above the new two-story home, even from the front yard. The patio is covered in a dark-colored standing seam roof, with steel C-channel fascias, and tongue-and-groove wood ceiling planks on the underside. Generously sized skylights on the patio roof and inside the living area allow for impressive views of the amazing oak canopy as well as precious natural light.
Supporting the sloped covered patio on the other side is the two-car garage with a secondary bedroom suite stacked above the garage. This two-story volume is to be clad in vertical clear-coated redwood siding, to tie in with the grove of three 43-inch redwood trees just beyond. The garage door, and the bank of windows for Bedroom#2 above feature a steel fascia eyebrow header feature to provide shade and overhang protection, as we are not proposing a large overhang at this “redwood trunk”. The garage and bedroom volume are pulled 16 feet away from the side property line, instead of the minimum required setback of 6’-6”, thus leaving plenty of room for the redwood grove and existing mature pear tree to continue to thrive. This existing mature green screen in this 16-foot-wide side yard is a feature worth soaking in, which is why tall windows with low sill heights are proposed for both the stairs and the upstairs hallway. Though it may be infrequent to approve side-facing 2nd floor windows with sill heights as low as what we’re proposing, we are confident that the mature green screen and the over 16-foot-wide side yard are sufficient to provide for the continued privacy of our neighbor’s rear yard space, especially considering theses windows are in walkway zones.
The covered patio at the front entry is also bound by the 10-foot-tall living room. The great room is clad in a dark blue brick veneer, which wraps around all three sides of the living room. Upon entering the home from the covered patio, you are immediately greeted with one of the most impressive features of the home’s design: a 10-foot-tall by 24-foot-wide set of sliding glass doors. From the entry, this huge opening gives merely an initial glimpse of the massive trunks of the gargantuan V-twin redwoods sitting at the center of the lot. All three sliding glass panels open directly out into the smaller partially covered deck in the rear. This roof overhang element matches the design of the front patio with a steel C-channel fascia and a large skylight. But the rear deck’s roof element is set flat at a ten-foot ceiling height so that the living room’s ceiling seems to float above and out beyond the expanse of full-height sliding doors, thus creating an indoor-outdoor living space that will feel much larger than the home’s actual footprint. This rear covered deck is smaller than the patio in the front and also has a mix of solid and open-slatted roofing to allow for more solar access for the relatively small amount of open sky available.
The downstairs living room is open to the dining and kitchen areas, as well as the stair-and-elevator tower beyond. The stair tower is very open and glassy, and the stairs wind up and around the redwood-clad elevator tower. From certain perspectives in the 16-foot-wide side yard, it will almost seem as if the grove of three redwoods has a fourth tree that the house and the stairs were carefully built around. Other than the 3-foot-wide windows, the exterior walls of the stair tower, downstairs utility spaces, and Bedroom#3 above are finished in cement plaster, painted dark blue and black. The sloped roof over the stair-and-elevator tower continues cleanly over the area of upstairs Bedroom#3. This roof level is set by the side daylight plane and only yields an inside wall height of just under 6 feet in height. The owners are satisfied that the rest of this upstairs room has a nice vaulted ceiling to make up for the one short wall under the daylight plane.
The rest of the ground floor adjacent to the stair tower consists of a small utility wing containing a half-bath, laundry, storage area, and an exterior alcove for the electric heat pump HVAC unit. This short wing also gives more accessible access to the rear yard deck, as well as a backdrop for an outdoor kitchen. The bright white stone backsplash for the outdoor kitchen provides contrast to the otherwise consistent use of cement plaster painted dark blue and black for the two-story wing closest to the detached ADU. Though Bedroom#3 is stacked directly above this small wing, it is relatively short to comply with the side daylight plane of this narrow lot. Still, to further help break up the scale of this wall, another steel fascia eyebrow element is set about 8 feet above the rear deck.
The master suite sits centered above the ten-foot-tall great room. The master bedroom and its balcony, as well as the master bathtub area, have a commanding view of the central redwood trees and their impressive canopy, though the balcony is mostly recessed and should pose no privacy concerns to the neighbor’s rear yards. The master balcony parapet is clad in the same brick veneer continuing up from the living room below. A dark-painted metal rail makes up the rest of the open guardrail height. The entire length of the master balcony is comprised of 9-foot-tall sliding glass doors, but the area above the doors, as well as the area below the master bathroom windows, is accented with more redwood siding. The remainder of the master suite bathroom and walk-in closet is finished in cement plaster painted dark blue. The master bathroom has one side yard-facing window but will be frosted glass for both the owner’s and the neighbor’s privacy.
The 2nd floor is capped under a simple gable roof design with one roof ridge and varying eave and rake overhangs depending on the 2nd-floor layout and solar orientation. Since these roof planes are quite difficult to see in the middle of the heavily wooded panhandle lot, we are proposing a white TPO roofing for these two upper roof planes as a more sustainable choice compared to more dark-colored roofing like the covered patios and detached ADU.
The owners also wish to build a detached 292-square-foot Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) as an office and guest suite. For the ADU foundation to be situated outside the central redwood tree’s critical root zone, this relatively tiny structure takes advantage of the narrower 4-foot side and rear setbacks allowed for ADUs smaller than 800 square feet. The small L-shaped detached ADU frames a wonderful quasi-courtyard around the gargantuan V-twin redwoods at the center of the lot. The ADU shares a matching material palette consisting of cement plaster painted blue and black, vertical redwood siding and soffits, and thin brick veneer. The ADU also features large full-height windows. The only difference between the main home and the ADU material palette is that the roofing will be a dark composition shingle roofing since it will be quite visible from the master balcony.

This proposal is for a new two-story home on the vacant heavily wooded lot with an existing 150-foot-long driveway lined by several beautiful oak trees culminating in a behemoth 43-inch oak tree where the driveway meets the main lot. The far end of the driveway terminates in a grove of three 43/40/43-inch redwoods and at the very center of the vacant lot stands a gargantuan V-twin 59-inch redwood tree paired with a “small” 29-inch redwood tree. The owners want to build a beautiful contemporary-styled home for their family that fully enjoys and embraces the mature trees on their cozy 65-foot by 100-foot lot.
As with all small, constrained lots, this project’s site design started first with meeting the relatively large parking and car maneuvering requirements. Menlo Park’s Department of Transportation typically requires side-facing garages to have 24-feet of backup space. So that they could give the largest feature redwood tree on site an added four feet (50%) of clearance outside of its critical root zone, the owners agreed to install a vehicle turntable at the end of their driveway to eliminate the extra four feet of space needed to back up and turnaround. This allowed them to pull their garage forward an additional four feet towards the front property line on the panhandle side, drastically reducing the rest of the home’s impact on the gargantuan V-Twin paired redwood tree at the center of the lot.
One of the owners has mobility issues, and accordingly, they first sought to design a one-story floor plan that incorporated all their family’s needs including plenty of covered patio and deck space to enjoy our fantastic California weather. But that single-story footprint spread too far into the critical root zones of several of the redwood trees on site, even despite the use of the vehicle turntable. During my interview process with the owners, they made it clear to me that one of their primary concerns is ensuring that the largest trees on site would thrive and become features of their new home after construction is complete. The single-story designs that removed the grove of three huge redwood trees were non-starters, as was the skimpy 5x10 master bath I designed when trying to squeeze the whole house program into an overly compromised single-story design. It was therefore deemed necessary to go with a two-story design despite the owner’s mobility issues. This two-story design has a much more compact ground floor footprint and has no bedrooms downstairs, other than the detached ADU. The owners must give up the floor area and incur the costs to install a residential elevator to access their upstairs master suite.
Our ground floor footprint is smaller due to the two-story design decision, and our foundation is pulled away from the trees thanks to the vehicle turntable. Yet, a tiny portion of the home’s ground floor footprint still encroaches into the critical root zones of the largest 59” redwood tree. Therefore, as outlined in the Arborist Report prepared by Aesculus Arboricultural Consulting, the structural engineers are incorporating an array of drilled piers and shallow-grade beams for the main home’s foundation and deck area nearest the redwood’s critical root zone. This drilled piers and grade beam foundation is a type of “bridging” foundation as outlined in Aesculus’ report to preserve the health of these trees that the property was designed around. The rest of the foundation will be constructed as an insulated slab-on-grade foundation to minimize the number of steps and ramps needed for the owners to enjoy their home and patio areas.
Despite the owner’s desire to keep as many trees as possible on site, and despite the smaller ground floor footprint and the advantage of the vehicle turntable, the need for a 20x20-foot garage and 20x20/25-foot guest parking space on our panhandle lot requires the removal of two heritage trees in the required driveway, a 16” coast redwood, and a 17” coast redwood. An alternate design, such as swapping the garage and guest parking locations north-to-south, still requires the removal of these two trees for vehicle maneuvering but has the added disadvantage of cutting off the home’s sightlines to the behemoth 43” oak tree just outside the currently proposed front patio space and living room. Jim Redman of Elements Landscape is proposing 13 new trees be planted on site to replace the lost value of these two heritage coast redwood trees.
This contemporary architectural design features clean lines, and an abundance of full-height windows and large skylights to best take in the immense trees on site. To blend in with the forest-like setting, the home boasts a mix of rich textures and features a color palette of natural wood tones contrasted with dark blue and black. Once through the new steel gate at the street and down the 150-foot tree-lined driveway, a large covered front patio becomes visible past the neighbor’s detached accessory structure. The covered patio is just across the driveway from the beautiful 43” behemoth coast live oak. The single plane of the covered patio roof is delicately supported by a pair of steel posts in a “V-twin” configuration much like the largest redwood trees that tower over the center of the lot and will still be visible above the new two-story home, even from the front yard. The patio is covered in a dark-colored standing seam roof, with steel C-channel fascias, and tongue-and-groove wood ceiling planks on the underside. Generously sized skylights on the patio roof and inside the living area allow for impressive views of the amazing oak canopy as well as precious natural light.
Supporting the sloped covered patio on the other side is the two-car garage with a secondary bedroom suite stacked above the garage. This two-story volume is to be clad in vertical clear-coated redwood siding, to tie in with the grove of three 43-inch redwood trees just beyond. The garage door, and the bank of windows for Bedroom#2 above feature a steel fascia eyebrow header feature to provide shade and overhang protection, as we are not proposing a large overhang at this “redwood trunk”. The garage and bedroom volume are pulled 16 feet away from the side property line, instead of the minimum required setback of 6’-6”, thus leaving plenty of room for the redwood grove and existing mature pear tree to continue to thrive. This existing mature green screen in this 16-foot-wide side yard is a feature worth soaking in, which is why tall windows with low sill heights are proposed for both the stairs and the upstairs hallway. Though it may be infrequent to approve side-facing 2nd floor windows with sill heights as low as what we’re proposing, we are confident that the mature green screen and the over 16-foot-wide side yard are sufficient to provide for the continued privacy of our neighbor’s rear yard space, especially considering theses windows are in walkway zones.
The covered patio at the front entry is also bound by the 10-foot-tall living room. The great room is clad in a dark blue brick veneer, which wraps around all three sides of the living room. Upon entering the home from the covered patio, you are immediately greeted with one of the most impressive features of the home’s design: a 10-foot-tall by 24-foot-wide set of sliding glass doors. From the entry, this huge opening gives merely an initial glimpse of the massive trunks of the gargantuan V-twin redwoods sitting at the center of the lot. All three sliding glass panels open directly out into the smaller partially covered deck in the rear. This roof overhang element matches the design of the front patio with a steel C-channel fascia and a large skylight. But the rear deck’s roof element is set flat at a ten-foot ceiling height so that the living room’s ceiling seems to float above and out beyond the expanse of full-height sliding doors, thus creating an indoor-outdoor living space that will feel much larger than the home’s actual footprint. This rear covered deck is smaller than the patio in the front and also has a mix of solid and open-slatted roofing to allow for more solar access for the relatively small amount of open sky available.
The downstairs living room is open to the dining and kitchen areas, as well as the stair-and-elevator tower beyond. The stair tower is very open and glassy, and the stairs wind up and around the redwood-clad elevator tower. From certain perspectives in the 16-foot-wide side yard, it will almost seem as if the grove of three redwoods has a fourth tree that the house and the stairs were carefully built around. Other than the 3-foot-wide windows, the exterior walls of the stair tower, downstairs utility spaces, and Bedroom#3 above are finished in cement plaster, painted dark blue and black. The sloped roof over the stair-and-elevator tower continues cleanly over the area of upstairs Bedroom#3. This roof level is set by the side daylight plane and only yields an inside wall height of just under 6 feet in height. The owners are satisfied that the rest of this upstairs room has a nice vaulted ceiling to make up for the one short wall under the daylight plane.
The rest of the ground floor adjacent to the stair tower consists of a small utility wing containing a half-bath, laundry, storage area, and an exterior alcove for the electric heat pump HVAC unit. This short wing also gives more accessible access to the rear yard deck, as well as a backdrop for an outdoor kitchen. The bright white stone backsplash for the outdoor kitchen provides contrast to the otherwise consistent use of cement plaster painted dark blue and black for the two-story wing closest to the detached ADU. Though Bedroom#3 is stacked directly above this small wing, it is relatively short to comply with the side daylight plane of this narrow lot. Still, to further help break up the scale of this wall, another steel fascia eyebrow element is set about 8 feet above the rear deck.
The master suite sits centered above the ten-foot-tall great room. The master bedroom and its balcony, as well as the master bathtub area, have a commanding view of the central redwood trees and their impressive canopy, though the balcony is mostly recessed and should pose no privacy concerns to the neighbor’s rear yards. The master balcony parapet is clad in the same brick veneer continuing up from the living room below. A dark-painted metal rail makes up the rest of the open guardrail height. The entire length of the master balcony is comprised of 9-foot-tall sliding glass doors, but the area above the doors, as well as the area below the master bathroom windows, is accented with more redwood siding. The remainder of the master suite bathroom and walk-in closet is finished in cement plaster painted dark blue. The master bathroom has one side yard-facing window but will be frosted glass for both the owner’s and the neighbor’s privacy.
The 2nd floor is capped under a simple gable roof design with one roof ridge and varying eave and rake overhangs depending on the 2nd-floor layout and solar orientation. Since these roof planes are quite difficult to see in the middle of the heavily wooded panhandle lot, we are proposing a white TPO roofing for these two upper roof planes as a more sustainable choice compared to more dark-colored roofing like the covered patios and detached ADU.
The owners also wish to build a detached 292-square-foot Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) as an office and guest suite. For the ADU foundation to be situated outside the central redwood tree’s critical root zone, this relatively tiny structure takes advantage of the narrower 4-foot side and rear setbacks allowed for ADUs smaller than 800 square feet. The small L-shaped detached ADU frames a wonderful quasi-courtyard around the gargantuan V-twin redwoods at the center of the lot. The ADU shares a matching material palette consisting of cement plaster painted blue and black, vertical redwood siding and soffits, and thin brick veneer. The ADU also features large full-height windows. The only difference between the main home and the ADU material palette is that the roofing will be a dark composition shingle roofing since it will be quite visible from the master balcony.
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Inspiration for a small contemporary single-wall porcelain tile wet bar remodel in Los Angeles with an undermount sink, flat-panel cabinets, black cabinets, quartz countertops and white backsplash

To maximize the functionality of the lower level, the rear entry includes a built-in workspace, bench and storage for the kids' jackets/backpacks.
Photographer: Tyler Chartier

KitchenLab Interiors’ first, entirely new construction project in collaboration with GTH architects who designed the residence. KLI was responsible for all interior finishes, fixtures, furnishings, and design including the stairs, casework, interior doors, moldings and millwork. KLI also worked with the client on selecting the roof, exterior stucco and paint colors, stone, windows, and doors. The homeowners had purchased the existing home on a lakefront lot of the Valley Lo community in Glenview, thinking that it would be a gut renovation, but when they discovered a host of issues including mold, they decided to tear it down and start from scratch. The minute you look out the living room windows, you feel as though you're on a lakeside vacation in Wisconsin or Michigan. We wanted to help the homeowners achieve this feeling throughout the house - merging the causal vibe of a vacation home with the elegance desired for a primary residence. This project is unique and personal in many ways - Rebekah and the homeowner, Lorie, had grown up together in a small suburb of Columbus, Ohio. Lorie had been Rebekah's babysitter and was like an older sister growing up. They were both heavily influenced by the style of the late 70's and early 80's boho/hippy meets disco and 80's glam, and both credit their moms for an early interest in anything related to art, design, and style. One of the biggest challenges of doing a new construction project is that it takes so much longer to plan and execute and by the time tile and lighting is installed, you might be bored by the selections of feel like you've seen them everywhere already. “I really tried to pull myself, our team and the client away from the echo-chamber of Pinterest and Instagram. We fell in love with counter stools 3 years ago that I couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger on, thank god, because then they started showing up literally everywhere", Rebekah recalls. Lots of one of a kind vintage rugs and furnishings make the home feel less brand-spanking new. The best projects come from a team slightly outside their comfort zone. One of the funniest things Lorie says to Rebekah, "I gave you everything you wanted", which is pretty hilarious coming from a client to a designer.

Photo credit: Scott McDonald @ Hedrich Blessing
7RR-Ecohome:
The design objective was to build a house for a couple recently married who both had kids from previous marriages. How to bridge two families together?
The design looks forward in terms of how people live today. The home is an experiment in transparency and solid form; removing borders and edges from outside to inside the house, and to really depict “flowing and endless space”. The house floor plan is derived by pushing and pulling the house’s form to maximize the backyard and minimize the public front yard while welcoming the sun in key rooms by rotating the house 45-degrees to true north. The angular form of the house is a result of the family’s program, the zoning rules, the lot’s attributes, and the sun’s path. We wanted to construct a house that is smart and efficient in terms of construction and energy, both in terms of the building and the user. We could tell a story of how the house is built in terms of the constructability, structure and enclosure, with a nod to Japanese wood construction in the method in which the siding is installed and the exposed interior beams are placed in the double height space. We engineered the house to be smart which not only looks modern but acts modern; every aspect of user control is simplified to a digital touch button, whether lights, shades, blinds, HVAC, communication, audio, video, or security. We developed a planning module based on a 6-foot square room size and a 6-foot wide connector called an interstitial space for hallways, bathrooms, stairs and mechanical, which keeps the rooms pure and uncluttered. The house is 6,200 SF of livable space, plus garage and basement gallery for a total of 9,200 SF. A large formal foyer celebrates the entry and opens up to the living, dining, kitchen and family rooms all focused on the rear garden. The east side of the second floor is the Master wing and a center bridge connects it to the kid’s wing on the west. Second floor terraces and sunscreens provide views and shade in this suburban setting. The playful mathematical grid of the house in the x, y and z axis also extends into the layout of the trees and hard-scapes, all centered on a suburban one-acre lot.
Many green attributes were designed into the home; Ipe wood sunscreens and window shades block out unwanted solar gain in summer, but allow winter sun in. Patio door and operable windows provide ample opportunity for natural ventilation throughout the open floor plan. Minimal windows on east and west sides to reduce heat loss in winter and unwanted gains in summer. Open floor plan and large window expanse reduces lighting demands and maximizes available daylight. Skylights provide natural light to the basement rooms. Durable, low-maintenance exterior materials include stone, ipe wood siding and decking, and concrete roof pavers. Design is based on a 2' planning grid to minimize construction waste. Basement foundation walls and slab are highly insulated. FSC-certified walnut wood flooring was used. Light colored concrete roof pavers to reduce cooling loads by as much as 15%. 2x6 framing allows for more insulation and energy savings. Super efficient windows have low-E argon gas filled units, and thermally insulated aluminum frames. Permeable brick and stone pavers reduce the site’s storm-water runoff. Countertops use recycled composite materials. Energy-Star rated furnaces and smart thermostats are located throughout the house to minimize duct runs and avoid energy loss. Energy-Star rated boiler that heats up both radiant floors and domestic hot water. Low-flow toilets and plumbing fixtures are used to conserve water usage. No VOC finish options and direct venting fireplaces maintain a high interior air quality. Smart home system controls lighting, HVAC, and shades to better manage energy use. Plumbing runs through interior walls reducing possibilities of heat loss and freezing problems. A large food pantry was placed next to kitchen to reduce trips to the grocery store. Home office reduces need for automobile transit and associated CO2 footprint. Plan allows for aging in place, with guest suite than can become the master suite, with no need to move as family members mature.

This project consisted of stripping everything to the studs and removing walls on half of the first floor and replacing with custom finishes creating an open concept with zoned living areas.

An appliance garage helps keep your kitchen tidy by providing a designated space to store frequently used appliances, reducing countertop clutter and maintaining a clean, organized look.

Designing and building a kitchen addition is a complex process that involves multiple steps and considerations. Here is a general outline to help you get started on your kitchen addition project:
Define Your Goals and Budget:
• Determine the purpose of the kitchen addition. Is it for more cooking space, a dining area, or a combination of both?
• Establish a realistic budget for your project. Consider all costs, including construction, permits, materials, and furnishings.
Hire a Design Professional:
• Seek the services of a design build company who specializes in kitchen additions.
• Discuss your vision, needs, and budget with the design professional to create a design concept.
Site Evaluation:
• Assess the existing space and structural condition of your home to ensure it can support the addition.
• Consider factors like zoning regulations, setbacks, and building codes.
Design Development:
• Collaborate with your design professional to refine the concept, including the layout, size, and architectural style.
• Choose materials, finishes, and fixtures that fit your design and budget.
Obtain Permits:
• Consult with your local design build contractor to determine the necessary permits and approvals.
• Prepare and submit all required documents, including architectural drawings and engineering plans.
Create Construction Documents:
• Work with your design build professional to develop detailed construction drawings and specifications.
• These documents will serve as a guide for contractors during construction.
Hire a design build contractor:
• Check references, credentials, and licenses before selecting a contractor.
• Sign a detailed contract that outlines the scope of work, timeline, and payment schedule.
Construction Phase:
• Demolition: If needed, remove any existing structures or walls.
• Foundation: Construct the foundation for the addition.
• Framing: Build the structural framework of the addition.
• Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC: Install or update utilities as required.
• Insulation: Ensure proper insulation for energy efficiency.
• Drywall and Finish Work: Complete the walls and ceilings.
• Flooring and Cabinetry: Install flooring and kitchen cabinets.
• Appliances and Fixtures: Add appliances, plumbing fixtures, and lighting.
• Paint and Finish: Apply paint and finishes to achieve the desired look.
• Final Inspection: Schedule inspections to ensure compliance with building codes.
Final Inspections and Approvals:
• Arrange for final inspections to ensure the addition meets all safety and code requirements.
• Obtain any necessary certificates of occupancy or compliance.
Move In and Enjoy:
• Once all inspections and approvals are received, you can move into your new kitchen addition and start enjoying it.
Remember that every kitchen addition project is unique, so adapt this outline to your specific needs and circumstances. Consulting with professionals and obtaining the required permits and inspections is crucial to a successful and safe project.

Designing and building a kitchen addition is a complex process that involves multiple steps and considerations. Here is a general outline to help you get started on your kitchen addition project:
Define Your Goals and Budget:
• Determine the purpose of the kitchen addition. Is it for more cooking space, a dining area, or a combination of both?
• Establish a realistic budget for your project. Consider all costs, including construction, permits, materials, and furnishings.
Hire a Design Professional:
• Seek the services of a design build company who specializes in kitchen additions.
• Discuss your vision, needs, and budget with the design professional to create a design concept.
Site Evaluation:
• Assess the existing space and structural condition of your home to ensure it can support the addition.
• Consider factors like zoning regulations, setbacks, and building codes.
Design Development:
• Collaborate with your design professional to refine the concept, including the layout, size, and architectural style.
• Choose materials, finishes, and fixtures that fit your design and budget.
Obtain Permits:
• Consult with your local design build contractor to determine the necessary permits and approvals.
• Prepare and submit all required documents, including architectural drawings and engineering plans.
Create Construction Documents:
• Work with your design build professional to develop detailed construction drawings and specifications.
• These documents will serve as a guide for contractors during construction.
Hire a design build contractor:
• Check references, credentials, and licenses before selecting a contractor.
• Sign a detailed contract that outlines the scope of work, timeline, and payment schedule.
Construction Phase:
• Demolition: If needed, remove any existing structures or walls.
• Foundation: Construct the foundation for the addition.
• Framing: Build the structural framework of the addition.
• Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC: Install or update utilities as required.
• Insulation: Ensure proper insulation for energy efficiency.
• Drywall and Finish Work: Complete the walls and ceilings.
• Flooring and Cabinetry: Install flooring and kitchen cabinets.
• Appliances and Fixtures: Add appliances, plumbing fixtures, and lighting.
• Paint and Finish: Apply paint and finishes to achieve the desired look.
• Final Inspection: Schedule inspections to ensure compliance with building codes.
Final Inspections and Approvals:
• Arrange for final inspections to ensure the addition meets all safety and code requirements.
• Obtain any necessary certificates of occupancy or compliance.
Move In and Enjoy:
• Once all inspections and approvals are received, you can move into your new kitchen addition and start enjoying it.
Remember that every kitchen addition project is unique, so adapt this outline to your specific needs and circumstances. Consulting with professionals and obtaining the required permits and inspections is crucial to a successful and safe project.

Designing and building a kitchen addition is a complex process that involves multiple steps and considerations. Here is a general outline to help you get started on your kitchen addition project:
Define Your Goals and Budget:
• Determine the purpose of the kitchen addition. Is it for more cooking space, a dining area, or a combination of both?
• Establish a realistic budget for your project. Consider all costs, including construction, permits, materials, and furnishings.
Hire a Design Professional:
• Seek the services of a design build company who specializes in kitchen additions.
• Discuss your vision, needs, and budget with the design professional to create a design concept.
Site Evaluation:
• Assess the existing space and structural condition of your home to ensure it can support the addition.
• Consider factors like zoning regulations, setbacks, and building codes.
Design Development:
• Collaborate with your design professional to refine the concept, including the layout, size, and architectural style.
• Choose materials, finishes, and fixtures that fit your design and budget.
Obtain Permits:
• Consult with your local design build contractor to determine the necessary permits and approvals.
• Prepare and submit all required documents, including architectural drawings and engineering plans.
Create Construction Documents:
• Work with your design build professional to develop detailed construction drawings and specifications.
• These documents will serve as a guide for contractors during construction.
Hire a design build contractor:
• Check references, credentials, and licenses before selecting a contractor.
• Sign a detailed contract that outlines the scope of work, timeline, and payment schedule.
Construction Phase:
• Demolition: If needed, remove any existing structures or walls.
• Foundation: Construct the foundation for the addition.
• Framing: Build the structural framework of the addition.
• Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC: Install or update utilities as required.
• Insulation: Ensure proper insulation for energy efficiency.
• Drywall and Finish Work: Complete the walls and ceilings.
• Flooring and Cabinetry: Install flooring and kitchen cabinets.
• Appliances and Fixtures: Add appliances, plumbing fixtures, and lighting.
• Paint and Finish: Apply paint and finishes to achieve the desired look.
• Final Inspection: Schedule inspections to ensure compliance with building codes.
Final Inspections and Approvals:
• Arrange for final inspections to ensure the addition meets all safety and code requirements.
• Obtain any necessary certificates of occupancy or compliance.
Move In and Enjoy:
• Once all inspections and approvals are received, you can move into your new kitchen addition and start enjoying it.
Remember that every kitchen addition project is unique, so adapt this outline to your specific needs and circumstances. Consulting with professionals and obtaining the required permits and inspections is crucial to a successful and safe project.

Designing and building a kitchen addition is a complex process that involves multiple steps and considerations. Here is a general outline to help you get started on your kitchen addition project:
Define Your Goals and Budget:
• Determine the purpose of the kitchen addition. Is it for more cooking space, a dining area, or a combination of both?
• Establish a realistic budget for your project. Consider all costs, including construction, permits, materials, and furnishings.
Hire a Design Professional:
• Seek the services of a design build company who specializes in kitchen additions.
• Discuss your vision, needs, and budget with the design professional to create a design concept.
Site Evaluation:
• Assess the existing space and structural condition of your home to ensure it can support the addition.
• Consider factors like zoning regulations, setbacks, and building codes.
Design Development:
• Collaborate with your design professional to refine the concept, including the layout, size, and architectural style.
• Choose materials, finishes, and fixtures that fit your design and budget.
Obtain Permits:
• Consult with your local design build contractor to determine the necessary permits and approvals.
• Prepare and submit all required documents, including architectural drawings and engineering plans.
Create Construction Documents:
• Work with your design build professional to develop detailed construction drawings and specifications.
• These documents will serve as a guide for contractors during construction.
Hire a design build contractor:
• Check references, credentials, and licenses before selecting a contractor.
• Sign a detailed contract that outlines the scope of work, timeline, and payment schedule.
Construction Phase:
• Demolition: If needed, remove any existing structures or walls.
• Foundation: Construct the foundation for the addition.
• Framing: Build the structural framework of the addition.
• Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC: Install or update utilities as required.
• Insulation: Ensure proper insulation for energy efficiency.
• Drywall and Finish Work: Complete the walls and ceilings.
• Flooring and Cabinetry: Install flooring and kitchen cabinets.
• Appliances and Fixtures: Add appliances, plumbing fixtures, and lighting.
• Paint and Finish: Apply paint and finishes to achieve the desired look.
• Final Inspection: Schedule inspections to ensure compliance with building codes.
Final Inspections and Approvals:
• Arrange for final inspections to ensure the addition meets all safety and code requirements.
• Obtain any necessary certificates of occupancy or compliance.
Move In and Enjoy:
• Once all inspections and approvals are received, you can move into your new kitchen addition and start enjoying it.
Remember that every kitchen addition project is unique, so adapt this outline to your specific needs and circumstances. Consulting with professionals and obtaining the required permits and inspections is crucial to a successful and safe project.

Designing and building a kitchen addition is a complex process that involves multiple steps and considerations. Here is a general outline to help you get started on your kitchen addition project:
Define Your Goals and Budget:
• Determine the purpose of the kitchen addition. Is it for more cooking space, a dining area, or a combination of both?
• Establish a realistic budget for your project. Consider all costs, including construction, permits, materials, and furnishings.
Hire a Design Professional:
• Seek the services of a design build company who specializes in kitchen additions.
• Discuss your vision, needs, and budget with the design professional to create a design concept.
Site Evaluation:
• Assess the existing space and structural condition of your home to ensure it can support the addition.
• Consider factors like zoning regulations, setbacks, and building codes.
Design Development:
• Collaborate with your design professional to refine the concept, including the layout, size, and architectural style.
• Choose materials, finishes, and fixtures that fit your design and budget.
Obtain Permits:
• Consult with your local design build contractor to determine the necessary permits and approvals.
• Prepare and submit all required documents, including architectural drawings and engineering plans.
Create Construction Documents:
• Work with your design build professional to develop detailed construction drawings and specifications.
• These documents will serve as a guide for contractors during construction.
Hire a design build contractor:
• Check references, credentials, and licenses before selecting a contractor.
• Sign a detailed contract that outlines the scope of work, timeline, and payment schedule.
Construction Phase:
• Demolition: If needed, remove any existing structures or walls.
• Foundation: Construct the foundation for the addition.
• Framing: Build the structural framework of the addition.
• Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC: Install or update utilities as required.
• Insulation: Ensure proper insulation for energy efficiency.
• Drywall and Finish Work: Complete the walls and ceilings.
• Flooring and Cabinetry: Install flooring and kitchen cabinets.
• Appliances and Fixtures: Add appliances, plumbing fixtures, and lighting.
• Paint and Finish: Apply paint and finishes to achieve the desired look.
• Final Inspection: Schedule inspections to ensure compliance with building codes.
Final Inspections and Approvals:
• Arrange for final inspections to ensure the addition meets all safety and code requirements.
• Obtain any necessary certificates of occupancy or compliance.
Move In and Enjoy:
• Once all inspections and approvals are received, you can move into your new kitchen addition and start enjoying it.
Remember that every kitchen addition project is unique, so adapt this outline to your specific needs and circumstances. Consulting with professionals and obtaining the required permits and inspections is crucial to a successful and safe project.

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Fredericksburg, OH
High Point Cabinets
Columbus' Experienced Custom Cabinet Builder | 4x Best of Houzz Winner

Designing and building a kitchen addition is a complex process that involves multiple steps and considerations. Here is a general outline to help you get started on your kitchen addition project:
Define Your Goals and Budget:
• Determine the purpose of the kitchen addition. Is it for more cooking space, a dining area, or a combination of both?
• Establish a realistic budget for your project. Consider all costs, including construction, permits, materials, and furnishings.
Hire a Design Professional:
• Seek the services of a design build company who specializes in kitchen additions.
• Discuss your vision, needs, and budget with the design professional to create a design concept.
Site Evaluation:
• Assess the existing space and structural condition of your home to ensure it can support the addition.
• Consider factors like zoning regulations, setbacks, and building codes.
Design Development:
• Collaborate with your design professional to refine the concept, including the layout, size, and architectural style.
• Choose materials, finishes, and fixtures that fit your design and budget.
Obtain Permits:
• Consult with your local design build contractor to determine the necessary permits and approvals.
• Prepare and submit all required documents, including architectural drawings and engineering plans.
Create Construction Documents:
• Work with your design build professional to develop detailed construction drawings and specifications.
• These documents will serve as a guide for contractors during construction.
Hire a design build contractor:
• Check references, credentials, and licenses before selecting a contractor.
• Sign a detailed contract that outlines the scope of work, timeline, and payment schedule.
Construction Phase:
• Demolition: If needed, remove any existing structures or walls.
• Foundation: Construct the foundation for the addition.
• Framing: Build the structural framework of the addition.
• Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC: Install or update utilities as required.
• Insulation: Ensure proper insulation for energy efficiency.
• Drywall and Finish Work: Complete the walls and ceilings.
• Flooring and Cabinetry: Install flooring and kitchen cabinets.
• Appliances and Fixtures: Add appliances, plumbing fixtures, and lighting.
• Paint and Finish: Apply paint and finishes to achieve the desired look.
• Final Inspection: Schedule inspections to ensure compliance with building codes.
Final Inspections and Approvals:
• Arrange for final inspections to ensure the addition meets all safety and code requirements.
• Obtain any necessary certificates of occupancy or compliance.
Move In and Enjoy:
• Once all inspections and approvals are received, you can move into your new kitchen addition and start enjoying it.
Remember that every kitchen addition project is unique, so adapt this outline to your specific needs and circumstances. Consulting with professionals and obtaining the required permits and inspections is crucial to a successful and safe project.

Designing and building a kitchen addition is a complex process that involves multiple steps and considerations. Here is a general outline to help you get started on your kitchen addition project:
Define Your Goals and Budget:
• Determine the purpose of the kitchen addition. Is it for more cooking space, a dining area, or a combination of both?
• Establish a realistic budget for your project. Consider all costs, including construction, permits, materials, and furnishings.
Hire a Design Professional:
• Seek the services of a design build company who specializes in kitchen additions.
• Discuss your vision, needs, and budget with the design professional to create a design concept.
Site Evaluation:
• Assess the existing space and structural condition of your home to ensure it can support the addition.
• Consider factors like zoning regulations, setbacks, and building codes.
Design Development:
• Collaborate with your design professional to refine the concept, including the layout, size, and architectural style.
• Choose materials, finishes, and fixtures that fit your design and budget.
Obtain Permits:
• Consult with your local design build contractor to determine the necessary permits and approvals.
• Prepare and submit all required documents, including architectural drawings and engineering plans.
Create Construction Documents:
• Work with your design build professional to develop detailed construction drawings and specifications.
• These documents will serve as a guide for contractors during construction.
Hire a design build contractor:
• Check references, credentials, and licenses before selecting a contractor.
• Sign a detailed contract that outlines the scope of work, timeline, and payment schedule.
Construction Phase:
• Demolition: If needed, remove any existing structures or walls.
• Foundation: Construct the foundation for the addition.
• Framing: Build the structural framework of the addition.
• Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC: Install or update utilities as required.
• Insulation: Ensure proper insulation for energy efficiency.
• Drywall and Finish Work: Complete the walls and ceilings.
• Flooring and Cabinetry: Install flooring and kitchen cabinets.
• Appliances and Fixtures: Add appliances, plumbing fixtures, and lighting.
• Paint and Finish: Apply paint and finishes to achieve the desired look.
• Final Inspection: Schedule inspections to ensure compliance with building codes.
Final Inspections and Approvals:
• Arrange for final inspections to ensure the addition meets all safety and code requirements.
• Obtain any necessary certificates of occupancy or compliance.
Move In and Enjoy:
• Once all inspections and approvals are received, you can move into your new kitchen addition and start enjoying it.
Remember that every kitchen addition project is unique, so adapt this outline to your specific needs and circumstances. Consulting with professionals and obtaining the required permits and inspections is crucial to a successful and safe project.

Photo credit: Scott McDonald @ Hedrich Blessing
7RR-Ecohome:
The design objective was to build a house for a couple recently married who both had kids from previous marriages. How to bridge two families together?
The design looks forward in terms of how people live today. The home is an experiment in transparency and solid form; removing borders and edges from outside to inside the house, and to really depict “flowing and endless space”. The house floor plan is derived by pushing and pulling the house’s form to maximize the backyard and minimize the public front yard while welcoming the sun in key rooms by rotating the house 45-degrees to true north. The angular form of the house is a result of the family’s program, the zoning rules, the lot’s attributes, and the sun’s path. We wanted to construct a house that is smart and efficient in terms of construction and energy, both in terms of the building and the user. We could tell a story of how the house is built in terms of the constructability, structure and enclosure, with a nod to Japanese wood construction in the method in which the siding is installed and the exposed interior beams are placed in the double height space. We engineered the house to be smart which not only looks modern but acts modern; every aspect of user control is simplified to a digital touch button, whether lights, shades, blinds, HVAC, communication, audio, video, or security. We developed a planning module based on a 6-foot square room size and a 6-foot wide connector called an interstitial space for hallways, bathrooms, stairs and mechanical, which keeps the rooms pure and uncluttered. The house is 6,200 SF of livable space, plus garage and basement gallery for a total of 9,200 SF. A large formal foyer celebrates the entry and opens up to the living, dining, kitchen and family rooms all focused on the rear garden. The east side of the second floor is the Master wing and a center bridge connects it to the kid’s wing on the west. Second floor terraces and sunscreens provide views and shade in this suburban setting. The playful mathematical grid of the house in the x, y and z axis also extends into the layout of the trees and hard-scapes, all centered on a suburban one-acre lot.
Many green attributes were designed into the home; Ipe wood sunscreens and window shades block out unwanted solar gain in summer, but allow winter sun in. Patio door and operable windows provide ample opportunity for natural ventilation throughout the open floor plan. Minimal windows on east and west sides to reduce heat loss in winter and unwanted gains in summer. Open floor plan and large window expanse reduces lighting demands and maximizes available daylight. Skylights provide natural light to the basement rooms. Durable, low-maintenance exterior materials include stone, ipe wood siding and decking, and concrete roof pavers. Design is based on a 2' planning grid to minimize construction waste. Basement foundation walls and slab are highly insulated. FSC-certified walnut wood flooring was used. Light colored concrete roof pavers to reduce cooling loads by as much as 15%. 2x6 framing allows for more insulation and energy savings. Super efficient windows have low-E argon gas filled units, and thermally insulated aluminum frames. Permeable brick and stone pavers reduce the site’s storm-water runoff. Countertops use recycled composite materials. Energy-Star rated furnaces and smart thermostats are located throughout the house to minimize duct runs and avoid energy loss. Energy-Star rated boiler that heats up both radiant floors and domestic hot water. Low-flow toilets and plumbing fixtures are used to conserve water usage. No VOC finish options and direct venting fireplaces maintain a high interior air quality. Smart home system controls lighting, HVAC, and shades to better manage energy use. Plumbing runs through interior walls reducing possibilities of heat loss and freezing problems. A large food pantry was placed next to kitchen to reduce trips to the grocery store. Home office reduces need for automobile transit and associated CO2 footprint. Plan allows for aging in place, with guest suite than can become the master suite, with no need to move as family members mature.
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