Homeowner
About me: Gypsum helps with root-growth. Sulfate of potash helps to induce blooms. Most of my 113+ rose varieties are own-roots. I don't spray. My soil is dolomitic heavy clay & high in magnesium, alkaline at pH 7.7, posted in HMF:
http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=21.302748&tab=32
My garden is NW of Chicago, zone 5a, 38" annual rain & 29" of snow. Austin, French Meilland, and hybrid tea like my clay. Albas, damasks, hybrid perpetual, and esp. Rugosas & hybrid Musk prefer sandy and loamy soil & need good drainage. Multiflora prefers high-rain & acidic loamy soil, but wichurana (Dr. Huey) prefers drier & alkaline clay.
My code for OWN-ROOT roses: PALE LEAVES prefer loamy soil & acidic rain. DARK-GREEN prefer heavy/alkaline clay. GLOSSY: best with partial shade & wet. TINY LEAVES prefer loamy & drought-tolerant (species). LARGE LEAVES = vigorous & deep root. THICK LEAVES = heat tolerant.
5-leaflet = modern roses, OK with alkaline tap-water. 7-leaflet or thornless or blue-color = multiflora & cooler sites & loamy & high-rain. 7-leaflet and many prickles = drought-tolerant Centifolia or Rugosa & prefer loamy/sandy & can handle hot & dry.
Over-fertilization: wilting, leaves curl down.
Too acidic: leaves curl up & thinner, and blackspots.
Too alkaline: Pale, leaves twisted & crinkled (copper def).
Potassium def: zero blooms, balling, thin & weak stems, and blackspots.
Calcium def: less petals, stunt growth & tip die-back
Nitrogen def: small leaves & pale LOWEST leaves
Sulfur def: entire plant is pale & stunt growth
Iron def: pale UPPER leaves with greener veins
DISEASES & ROOTSTOCKS & pH preference:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4167700/blackspot-organic-prevention-and-remedies?n=33
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4307542/best-soil-and-ph-for-different-roses-and-plants-and-your-goals-and-plans?n=16
SOIL CHEMISTRY & ACID RAIN:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4198011/your-plans-for-roses-in-ground-and-pots-soil-prep-and-fertilizing?n=66
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4114089/mineral-nutrient-deficiency-and-secret-to-health-and-antifungal-trace-e?n=50
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2133077/why-own-root-roses-are-healthier-than-grafted?n=18
MINERAL DEFICIENCY: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4034324/questions-on-mineral-nutrient-deficiency-in-pots-and-ground-and-fertilizer?n=65
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3269110/azomite-red-lava-rock-manure-bone-meal-worm-castings?n=34
TEST YOUR SOIL PH:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2132487/cheapest-way-to-test-soil-ph-using-red-cabbage?n=26
SALT IN FERTILIZER
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2134701/salt-index-of-chemical-fertilizer-and-soluble-for-hot-weather?n=26
ROOTING ROSES:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4313593/soil-mix-for-indoor-baggie-rose-rooting-v
http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=21.302748&tab=32
My garden is NW of Chicago, zone 5a, 38" annual rain & 29" of snow. Austin, French Meilland, and hybrid tea like my clay. Albas, damasks, hybrid perpetual, and esp. Rugosas & hybrid Musk prefer sandy and loamy soil & need good drainage. Multiflora prefers high-rain & acidic loamy soil, but wichurana (Dr. Huey) prefers drier & alkaline clay.
My code for OWN-ROOT roses: PALE LEAVES prefer loamy soil & acidic rain. DARK-GREEN prefer heavy/alkaline clay. GLOSSY: best with partial shade & wet. TINY LEAVES prefer loamy & drought-tolerant (species). LARGE LEAVES = vigorous & deep root. THICK LEAVES = heat tolerant.
5-leaflet = modern roses, OK with alkaline tap-water. 7-leaflet or thornless or blue-color = multiflora & cooler sites & loamy & high-rain. 7-leaflet and many prickles = drought-tolerant Centifolia or Rugosa & prefer loamy/sandy & can handle hot & dry.
Over-fertilization: wilting, leaves curl down.
Too acidic: leaves curl up & thinner, and blackspots.
Too alkaline: Pale, leaves twisted & crinkled (copper def).
Potassium def: zero blooms, balling, thin & weak stems, and blackspots.
Calcium def: less petals, stunt growth & tip die-back
Nitrogen def: small leaves & pale LOWEST leaves
Sulfur def: entire plant is pale & stunt growth
Iron def: pale UPPER leaves with greener veins
DISEASES & ROOTSTOCKS & pH preference:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4167700/blackspot-organic-prevention-and-remedies?n=33
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4307542/best-soil-and-ph-for-different-roses-and-plants-and-your-goals-and-plans?n=16
SOIL CHEMISTRY & ACID RAIN:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4198011/your-plans-for-roses-in-ground-and-pots-soil-prep-and-fertilizing?n=66
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4114089/mineral-nutrient-deficiency-and-secret-to-health-and-antifungal-trace-e?n=50
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2133077/why-own-root-roses-are-healthier-than-grafted?n=18
MINERAL DEFICIENCY: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4034324/questions-on-mineral-nutrient-deficiency-in-pots-and-ground-and-fertilizer?n=65
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3269110/azomite-red-lava-rock-manure-bone-meal-worm-castings?n=34
TEST YOUR SOIL PH:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2132487/cheapest-way-to-test-soil-ph-using-red-cabbage?n=26
SALT IN FERTILIZER
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2134701/salt-index-of-chemical-fertilizer-and-soluble-for-hot-weather?n=26
ROOTING ROSES:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4313593/soil-mix-for-indoor-baggie-rose-rooting-v
GardenWeb Member: Strawberryhill - August 3, 2011
