What lights did you switch to?

My previous set-up was a storage cart jimmy-rigged with fluoro fixtures - it worked well enough but was aggravating at times due to the lights being on chains, having to rotate trays so they all would get adequate light. Was in a cramped space, too.

So, I moved and DH bought me the light cart I'd been wanting for, oh, 15 years or so. I love it!

https://www.harrisseeds.com/products/04441-4-tier-grow-light-plant-stand-16-trays

Timing was perfect, too - I took advantage of a Black Friday sale and saved a nice chunk of change :0) I did purchase one shelf so I would be able to put the germinating seed trays on it.

Hi mxk,

When I decided I was going to do some serious indoor gardening back in 2004 I considered the very system you got. It cost about half as much back then, due to the way creeping inflation works. But even then I realized I would need/want more than one of them, so cost became a deciding factor. And that forced me onto the scheme of using T8 fluorescent shoplights hanging in chrome-wire 2'x4' shelving. So, yes, my fluorescent fixtures are hanging from chains and S-hooks. So adjusting the bulb height does take somewhat longer than the commercial grow units.

Since I grow my indoor zinnias to maturity and save seeds from them (as I am doing now) my shelves need to accommodate blooming zinnias, and they can do that.

My pots are in Permanest 22"x11" trays, four of which fit nicely on a 2'x4' chrome wire shelf. The chrome-wire shelves are fully adjustable in one-inch increments, and they can support more weight than the commercial growing units. I get 4 2-bulb T8 shoplights over a shelf, and some of the shoplights are overdriven for higher light output. Zinnias appreciate a lot of light.

I can and do plant my zinnias much earlier, starting in November to have zinnias in full bloom by Christmas. So starting my seeds too early is not an issue, because they can complete their life cycle on the chrome wire shelving..

ZM

^^ Yep, pretty much same set-up as I had, down to the chains and S-hooks; I think my shelves were a little narrower, though - I had three fixtures per shelf. Adjusting the lights were really a PITA at times!

Love the Permanest trays - well worth the cost, they're really sturdy and have held up very well over the years. My new light cart came complete with Permanest trays, so now I have more than enough. I find the smaller sizes come in handy to separate out/carry a few plants.

Zenman: BTW, interesting observation I made (well, interesting to me anyway) - My Uproar Rose zinnia seem to have sturdier stems than the Benary's Giants I grew. Would that be due to differences in the variety/strain? I'm thinking I should cut back the BG's once planted to get stockier growth, although I recall you saying once they are bred for cutting and growth habit reflects this - ? .

Hi mxk,

" My Uproar Rose zinnia seem to have sturdier stems than the Benary's
Giants I grew. Would that be due to differences in the variety/strain? "

Yes, I think it is genetic. Uproar Rose is an F1 hybrid, while the Benary's Giants are open-pollinated field grown. I mentioned elsewhere that I added California Giants to my genetic mix to get sturdier plants. Preliminary results are encouraging, but that is an ongoing project. I like new flower forms and such, but I think the plants themselves are an important part of a zinnia. In these Kansas winds, you can't get too sturdy.

" I'm thinking I should cut back the BG's once planted to get stockier growth... "

Yes, I think that pruning or pinching can lead to better branched, sturdier zinnia plants, regardless of the the cultivar. Ideally one would routinely pinch out the central bud, but I am always anxious to see a first bloom, and cull based on that bloom, so for my breeders I leave the central bud on to see a first bloom as soon as I can.

For sturdier indoor zinnias I include a little potassium silicate in their nutrient solution. Silicon is not necessary for plant nutrition, but plants do use it to strengthen cell walls. Rice growers use commercial fertilizer that is fortified with silicon for stronger stems to keep the rice seedheads out of the water. The stronger cell walls are said to make zinnias more disease resistant. There are many products containing available Silicon, but the one I use is Dyna-Gro ProTeKt As I recall, I purchased mine from Amazon.

ZM (not associated with any product or vendor mentioned or linked)

mxk -- I am also in SE Mich and would like to plant out my zinnia seedlings this week. But... it is mostly in the 60's this week with lows in the 50's (one night 47) --- I really don't want to wait until Memorial Day because I fear my seedlings are out-growing their little Jiffy seed starting tray.

What to do?

Hi Stir Fry,

" What to do? "

Well, they need to be "acclimated" to sunshine, to prevent their first exposure from sun-burning them. So you could set them outside in open shade during the day and bring them back inside at night. You could do that for a few days, and then plop them in the ground before Memorial Day, which is not far away.

ZM

That's my plan zen_man.

imagine how early they would have been.. in a regular MI spring ....

my MI garden is anywhere from a month to 6 weeks early .. yikes ..

one trick ... dont plant all your seeds at once .... maybe next year ... plant a few when you just cant help yourself.. lol ... then wait 2 or 3 weeks.. and plant another batch ... etc ...

ken

Good advice.

I left the zinnia on the patio all week in the sunshine, and they are looking better - I'm going to try to plant them tomorrow; if not, next weekend at the latest (Memorial weekend). My melons and squash...not so good... Well, all I can is plant them and see what happens. I think they are just too big for their pots, like previous poster mentioned.