I don't know where an island would fit, but I don't think the peninsula will give you prep space where it's most needed. Can you rearrange the existing cabinets to put the range between them and the new cabinets of the peninsula? Is new counter top in the budget?

To answer the question, I think the peninsula is the better choice.

I also don't see an island fitting well--and I'd also want that peninsula to be little longer. If the planned cabinetry stays as is, you could extend the countertop and gain more working space as well as additional seating at the end.

An island (by itself) is the simplest solution, and probably the cheapest. Is she suggesting it go where the dinette is right now? So it would be adjacent to the kitchen, just sort of free floating in the breakfast nook area? I’m not sure that’s beneficial, and agree with mamagoose that adding a peninsula to the end isn’t a great help, either.

Unfortunately, this is one of those examples of issues people run into when a renovation is done in stages. I know it’s not ideal, but I would work on just matching the door style and details, and have the existing and new cabinetry all painted on site, rather than trying to also match the paint/finish. It may not be any cheaper than just doing all new cabinetry, though. And, if you’re redoing countertops anyway (and I don’t see how you wouldn’t) it might be worth it to just redesign the kitchen entirely.

In my area, you can sell used cabinetry pretty easily... even our 25yo oak cabinets went for $1500. It’s not awesome, but it’s easier to buy a new dress than to take the old one completely apart and rework it into something new, especially when it means you’ll end up with something that is exactly right for the occasion.

Thanks so much @mama goose_gw zn6OH & @Muriel Thompson! There's actually 36" between the range and sink right now (and 52" from the sink to the wall) - not sure why the architect's drawing makes it look closer. It works fine for quick meals but I'd like a longer stretch of uninterrupted counterspace. I don't think we'd want to move the range now - the gas was moved across the slab last time and this is one of the few parts of the house that isn't being fully gutted.

I understand why the cabinet rep was trying to push me toward an island, but I've been goofing around with the dimensions on the Ikea planner and it just winds up being an island in the tangible sense of not being connected to where I need space. I also am not sure how they will get electrical there since it's a slab and the electrical work is already underway based on the plans. Ugh.

I wouldn’t touch it. An island is a ridiculous suggestion. Maybe you just need to reorganize the contents of your cabinets so items are where you need them or so people aren’t getting in your way while cooking.
What are you trying to do that makes you feel like you need more counter space?

If the banquette feels like dead space, would having a counter height table help bridge the gap? I have a small counter-height table in my kitchen, and it helps fill the gaps when the workable counter space isn’t providing what we need.

Does the cabinet maker do custom paint? I’d be willing to take the chance that the color won’t be an exact match if viewed with a finely calibrated spectrometer. Besides, with a peninsula, you’re not going to have the existing finish right next to/in the same plane as the new cabinetry. Not only that, but it’s all at thigh-level, not eye-level.😬

Ask for a sample door.

Thanks for all these responses, they help ! @Muriel Thompson, I've thought about a counter-height table but it seems suboptimal. Right now I don't use the counter to the right of the range, with a peninsula I'd be much more like to work there.

@emilyam819 thanks for putting it in such straightforward terms! I think you're right!

@Hillside House paint is probably our best option. We only want to add a couple of cabinets - definitely not anywhere near the cost of ripping & replacing the whole kitchen.

@Sammy the cabinet person originally suggested a custom paint job. But today she was dead set on doing an island and I briefly wondered if she was right. The other option would be to order the cabinets unfinished and try to find someone local who could do a really top-notch paint job.

An island will not help. If all you're doing is replacing the existing table with an island and you don't user your existing table now for overflow prep, you won't use the island. And there's a reason for that -- it's not convenient to haul all your stuff to the table/island and then haul it all back.

There also isn't room for an island in the Kitchen itself.

I think the suggestion that you try decluttering and re-organizing are the least expensive ideas.

If you really want to do more...

Paint would work, assuming you're willing to do it right, but a good/professional paint job can get expensive.

Have you thought of getting new cabinets (drawer bases) for the peninsula and then refacing the old cabinets to match the new cabinets? Maybe reface the boxes and get new doors & drawer fronts to match the new cabinets. It may not cost any more than a good paint job and you'll have a better match.

That peninsula, btw, won't seat what it shows. For island seating you need:

• 24" of linear space per seat (so 5' will only fit 2 seats, not 3, especially when up against a wall on one side.)
• 15" clear leg/knee space for the seating overhang (not the 9.5" you'll have with the posted layout)

Keep in mind that counters all overhang cabinets around 1.5". Peninsula (and island) cabinets have approx 1" of decorative doors or end panels on the backs to protect the cabinets under the overhang (and for a nicer/higher end look). So...

36" deep peninsula - 1.5" overhang in front - 24"D base cabinet - 1" decorative door/panel = 9.5" left for the overhang

To fit seating, the peninsula should be at least 41.5" deep.

The #s above are the minimum recommended, not maximum.

Thanks @Buehl, glad to hear from the original GW expert! Do you really think the cost of painting 2 or 3 cabinets is going to be less than getting new drawer/door fronts for the whole kitchen, plus painting the cabinet boxes themselves? I've been assuming the peninsula might only involve adding a 30" drawer base along the existing outer wall and then some kind of blind corner cabinet. Maybe a third one, if I make the peninsula a little longer.

For me, this work on the kitchen is nice but not necessary - essentially I threw it in because we were doing so much other work (adding a master suite, gutting 2 baths and living/dining space, adding a fireplace, all new windows and doors, and lots of other stuff that has come up during demo.) I'm not inclined to spend too much more on the kitchen. For one, it actually works reasonably well for us most of the time. The 48" aisle, which I learned from GW, makes a tight space bearable. We're renting during construction and our small U-shaped kitchen is so much worse. Also right now if I blow up our budget (again) it will be for a screened-in porch, not replacing a 6 year-old kitchen!

I was trying to address the big issue that I think, if it were my kitchen, would bother me the most...deliberately mismatched cabinets or trying to make them match and failing.

It's doubtful you will be able to get a perfect, or even a great, match by painting the new cabinets to try to match the new ones. I know it would bother me to have a different color on connected cabinets. I'd rather pay a bit more money to reface the existing, if Diamond offers it, and get new doors to match. Have you priced out what it would cost to replace them all? You could modify the layout a bit to add more space b/w the range and sink (the most important workspace). Maybe you could even move a couple of cabinets around to gain space. Move the "old" 36" to the other side of the range and get a 42" one (or 18" trash pullout + 24" drawer base) for b/w the range and sink. But then, you'd need new counters all around.

Even on a slab, you can often move gas or water a bit in either direction, so you might be able to gain 6 to 12 inches b/w the range and sink.

Sorry, there I go blowing up your budget again!

I just know that over time I would be kicking myself for not doing more to match the cabinets and, possibly, to add workspace where it's needed most.

If just adding the peninsula:

Don't get a blind corner cabinet. They're poor cabinets. Instead, get a 27" and turn it 90 degrees or void it out completely.

Thanks again @Buehl! I do appreciate the good advice but pulling apart the entire kitchen is not an option. I've become very good at justifying $$$ scope creep on our reno, but thankfully I'm happy enough with the existing layout (thanks to a lot of GW help in the first place.)

My original question was whether the KD's idea for an island works - it seems that's a unanimous no. I'm really grateful for that clarity. My challenge now is to figure out whether I can get a good custom finish from Diamond or find a local pro. I found some references for high quality cabinet painting from the WashPost and a local list serv, so that's a start.

Now if y'all can help me rationalize ratcheting this already very pricey project up another $75k for a small screened porch, I'm all ears!

I might be able to make you feel better about skipping the screened porch, ha. How small is small? A small screened porch is often too small to be enjoyed and ends up being a wasted space. I see so many decks or patios converted to screened porches—and the dimensions that worked as an open space simply aren’t large enough for an enclosed space and the furniture needed to make it comfortable. Unless you can go for a big screened porch, pass.

Are the cabinets still available just not in that finish? I think white could work well since the transition happens at 90 degrees to the existing and you have white counters- I think it could look intentional. I don't feel trying to match locally will work well. I'm surprised diamond won't match (at extra $$) since they have the formula...

Hi everyone, hope you will revisit this thread and help me make a decision. I went back to the KD and told her that an island wasn't going to work. I asked her to do the originally intended small peninsula and I'd find a painter to try to match the original color.

One piece of good news - I can order the cabinet unfinished and Diamond can provide paint that should match the existing cabinets. I also had an idea that either brilliant or ridiculous - I could get an undercabinet beverage fridge to abut the existing cabinets, in case the paint match is less than perfect. So here's what the KD proposed to extend the outer wall of the galley- please tell me what you think! I have a couple of tweaks (make the overhang 15" instead of 12", maybe swap a 36" cabinet for the 33") but tbh I'm also wavering about whether all this is really worth it. I just want a little more work space and a spot where a teenager can grab a bowl of cereal. Is there some better way to do that? Thanks for any (more) help!

I like your idea of using a beverage fridge to split the cabinet run. Do you like the design with the drawers pulled forward facing the seating areas. I would personally likely prefer to put a cabinet with doors there (to access for rarely used things) and leave it tucked under an overhang to allow for more seating. But if you don’t want that much seating, and the drawers are practical for you, that makes sense and looks nice to me.

I like the beverage fridge (if you need one!) but used in this configuration that allows seating for more than one person:

The 45” drawer bank accessible to the cook

The 27” base cabinet accessible by crawling underneath the overhang(?)

The fridge in place of the 21” cabinet

Thanks @Muriel Thompson - I'm not sure about the drawers on the seating side! I suggested pulling the cabinet out there, mostly because I question whether anyone would want to be seated squished into the corner. And I suggested an overhang on the end of the peninsula so that the seating wouldn't be entirely side-by-side. This space will be used almost exclusively for meal prep and quick snacks, but probably also on a regular basis when we have tutors working with one of the kids.

@Sammy - you've got it right, the fridge would go where @Buehl had suggested a 21" base cabinet. The KD originally suggested more cabinetry on the peninsula but it was way too long. (This is one of the downsides of doing things virtually; I don't think she really appreciates that this space needs to accommodate traffic from the front door and the staircase.) So the drawing above includes only a 33" base cabinet accessible to the cook, I can fit at least 36" and still keep an overhang on the end for an additional seat. As noted above, I'm a little bit on the fence about how to configure the seating side.

Part of me wonders if the fact that is so tricky means that it's just a dumb idea altogether. Problem is that I can't come up with any better alternative.