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hardcorpse

Garapa Deck Install Questions

16 years ago

Hello All. I am new to the posting side of this forum but have read well over a sane amount of posts in search of THE TRUTH.

My situation is this: I have purchased 1x6 Garapa Gold from East Teak and am planning to re-skin my existing PT deck. I have yet to remove the existing rotted deck, but in anticipation of the Garapa's arrival I am boning up on knowledge in the hopes of eliminating or at least minimizing costly and time consuming mistakes. My research has led me to the following conclusions:

1. I may need to replace some (many) of the existing PT timbers; This does not frighten me.

2. I do not want to pre-seal all 4 (6) sides. Top only, after install.

3. SS Trimhead #7 2 1/4 screws are planned- wouldn't mind Headcoat if I could figure on a color. The difference between Ipe and Garapa is significant, but I plan on using a darker stain on the wood (116 perhaps?). Love liquid nails so I will do the 4?? adhesive just because.

4. TWP or Woodzotic? I know there has been a lot of info flying around, but the concreteness of the data still has me wondering. Yearly maintenance is ok, but to a lesser degree would be preferential.

5. Rails will be Mangaris, would like to use same stain but accentuate the difference in color between the two different woods. Information here would be quite helpful.

6. Countersink vs. no countersink. The Garapa is a bit softer than Ipe, so I like the 5/32 pilot with no countersink idea. I am a bit OC so I will definitely chalk lines and use a jig to ensure screws are straight. 3/4 from edges and ends sounds about right, but I would like to be sure. Anchor Seal is a given, but should the skirt cover the ends or be flush with the joists?

7. Gapping. I am clueless. 1/8, 3/16, flush? Much help here if possible.

8. Deck is ~1 ft above ground on low end and 20" on high end with ventilation on three sides. Is this sufficient?

9. Sanding? I am reaaaallly confused on this topic.

I think that covers the basics, but any additional help is much appreciated

Semper Fi

Comments (7)

  • 16 years ago

    The deck will see about 7 hours of direct/non-direct sun a day in the worse case (June-July)

  • 16 years ago

    we're just about finish with our garapa deck. Here's a few items I can comment on, but take it for what is worth since I'm not a pro by any mean:

    4. we used sstrim color tan. Looks abit dark on raw garapa but blend nicely with the Woodzotic. i think there is a cear color that would work better but couldn't find it in Austin.

    5. we used woodzotic, we like it. It's a bit redish. don't be afraid, it looks very red when you applied it but turn into a more red/golden after a couple of days.

    6. definitely coutnersink, otherwise the wood will crack. Use the special drill sold with the trimhead screw (can't remember the name now) that drill and does the countersink at once. it works nicely (and doesn't break that often if you're just let it drill and not push on it).
    7. we used something between 1/8 and 1/16th (used some metal square for spacer). I think 1/16 is a bit tight, 1/8 is better.
    9. We didn't sand, the wood is nice and smooth as is.

    We had a lot of dark stain around the screw that went away when we clean the wood with the restore-a-deck thing. We waited approx 2 month before we clean and stain and here in texas, the wood was already quite gray. The RAD thing does work very nicely but if you can avoid letting seat the wood for too long in the sun unsealed-unstained it's probably better

    I hope it helps, I'll post pics if you want

    mrpluche

  • 16 years ago

    Please do post the pictures. I'd like to see them. TIA

  • 16 years ago

    here it is:

    {{!gwi}}

    {{!gwi}}

    {{!gwi}}

    {{!gwi}}

    {{!gwi}}

    {{!gwi}}

    {{!gwi}}

    {{!gwi}}

    Mrpluche

  • 16 years ago

    I'm still working out some of my issues, but here is my take:

    2. I do not want to pre-seal all 4 (6) sides. Top only, after install.

    Yes, but the sides will be important for aesthetics if there is any gap between boards. Use lots of stain or spray it in the gaps.

    3. SS Trimhead #7 2 1/4 screws are planned- wouldn't mind Headcoat if I could figure on a color. The difference between Ipe and Garapa is significant, but I plan on using a darker stain on the wood (116 perhaps?). Love liquid nails so I will do the 4?? adhesive just because.

    Yes on the #7 2 1/4" and adhesive. Adhesive will give you a quieter deck.

    4. TWP or Woodzotic? I know there has been a lot of info flying around, but the concreteness of the data still has me wondering. Yearly maintenance is ok, but to a lesser degree would be preferential.

    I can't say, I recently stripped the TWP on my ipe, but it was 501 (CA VOC compliant) - it didn't work. Today I put down the Woodzotic, but that's not enough time to tell.

    5. Rails will be Mangaris, would like to use same stain but accentuate the difference in color between the two different woods. Information here would be quite helpful.

    I think it's a good idea to use the same stain, and stain them at the same time. Hopefully the woods will show the difference. But, masking or cutting stain along edges is much harder than paint - it's hard to show clean lines.

    6. Countersink vs. no countersink. The Garapa is a bit softer than Ipe, so I like the 5/32 pilot with no countersink idea. I am a bit OC so I will definitely chalk lines and use a jig to ensure screws are straight. 3/4 from edges and ends sounds about right, but I would like to be sure. Anchor Seal is a given, but should the skirt cover the ends or be flush with the joists?

    I think 3/4" from edges is max, shoot for 1/2-5/8." If you are truly OC, you will countersink. I would countersink pine if it was my deck.

    7. Gapping. I am clueless. 1/8, 3/16, flush? Much help here if possible.

    Kiln dried may expand, air dried will shrink. Be sure you know what you have. I used air dried ipe, with 0-1/16" gap. All of my boards now have a 1/8-3/16" gap and I would not want any more (I used 1X4).

    8. Deck is ~1 ft above ground on low end and 20" on high end with ventilation on three sides. Is this sufficient?

    9. Sanding? I am reaaaallly confused on this topic.

    I sanded the whole deck, but I think you can sand the problem spots, if any, and then RAD the whole thing to clean and prep it.

    good luck.

  • 16 years ago

    Very nice project Mr P. !! the full length stairs really set the deck off from the normal. John

  • 16 years ago

    Thanks for all of the input. I am just about ready to begin and will keep the forum posted on progress.