here's some info
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pp133

Here is a link that might be useful: info re ctrus greening w/images

Thank you i will check

If your tree is infected with citrus greening, there is no help for your tree. The disease has no cure, therefore your tree will die. You do not list where you live, so we cannot tell if you live in an area that even has the disease. The areas with greening are very few within the USA.

what about this? citrus greening or iron deficiency?

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More likely zinc or magnesium deficiency. Hit it with a foliar spray with micronutrients as well as fertilize with a good citrus fertilizer that has micronutrients in it. If you water/soil are on the alkaline side, try watering in with acidified water. If you are in California, many of our citrus look a little peaked. We've had a long, cold, wet winter, which can cause issues with citrus being able to take up micronutrients, especially zinc and magnesium.

Patty S.

thank you

how long till i see the result? or i have to wait till new leaves to form?

Does anyone have a photo of citrus greening to post?

Thanks,

noss

UC Davis' UC IPM web site has some excellent images as well as information about Huanglongbing (HLB) or Citrus Greening. The photo caption explains how to differentiate this from micronutrient deficiencies, such as iron or manganese deficiencies.

Patty S.

Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis UC IPM: Citrus Greening Photo

This area in central Florida, and my trees in particular are suffering from some kind of disease. The symptoms are the a lot of branches are dieing. There is some new growth, but it is of poor quality and cannot keep up with the branches, mostly tips, that are dieing. So, the tree actually shrinks. I have tried spraying, fertilizing and watering. The results are still out.
Does anyone know what can be done to rectify this situation.

I recently bought a new citrus tree and the tag said it was treated with ISD and it is to expire 8/28/12. What can I do to duplicate this treatment?

Thanks for any help.

ISD is Imidacloprid soil drench; it protects against sucking and chewing insects... it does nothing to fix nutrient deficiencies or HLB infection. FYI, HLB is like AIDS for citrus trees; there is no real cure; but there has been a lot of "success" using cocktails, much like AIDS treatments which keep the tree alive and actually in continuing production. Still so much to learn..

To duplicate the ISD treatment just apply it twice per year.
All my field Meyers get Imidacloprid and Bayer Silvacur (fungicide) twice per year.... whether they need it or not; it is an insurance policy.

Dietmar1, if you think you have HLB (Citrus Greening Disease), I would call your local county extension office, and have someone come out and look at your tree. Just dousing it with Imidicloprid without knowing what's causing your tree's decline will not help your tree. John is running a commercial orchard and has different management requirements than we hobbiests do. So, first, let's get your tree diagnosed to see what the most appropriate treatment will be. Then, treat, appropriately.

Patty S.

I think we can start an entire separate thread in regards to the "wonders" of Imidicloprid.

Hello 'hoosierquilt' and 'blazeaglory' and thanks for your response. Let me tell you the rest of the story and maybe than some of of all of this will make sense.
I had 4 orange trees and 1 grape fruit tree. Two years ago we had a very cold winter and the trees sustained a certain amount of damage. During the same time the trees declined by getting more dead limbs and branches than new growth. Two orange trees really diminished in size so much, that I took my tractor and literally pulled them out of the ground. One orange tree and the grapefruit tree started to improve when I started a program of regular spraying, fertilizing and watering. The last orange tree was pretty much stagnant. I called the "Master Gardner" of the University of Florida. He could not help me; he wanted a fruit with orange color on it, which I did not have. That last orange tree had a trunk with a 6-8 inch diameter trunk. I took my chainsaw and cut it off just above the "Y" in the trunk and I made certain that some good shoots remained. I hope that this will get rid of all the infected stuff.
I went and bought a 'Cocktail Citrus' plant in a 1 gallon container. This plant has a Myer lemon and lime graft. The plant is to be ever-bearing and already had some fruit. There was also a tag that referred to an 'ISD Treatment' with dates and a website, www.MyCitrusTree.com . This started me on some extensive research and led me to Malcolm M. Manners, PhD with the Florida Southern College in Lakeland, Florida. His advice was the use of Imidacloprid. Further search led me to two products that contain Imidacloprid; one is 'Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control'(lets call this #1) and 'Bayer Advanced 12 Months Tree & Shrub Protect and Feed' (lets call this #2).
#1 contains 0.253% Imidacloprid
#2 contains 1.47% Imidacloprid plus some time release fertilizer, 2-1-1
The Imidacloprid in both products provides 12 months systemic protection. With product #1 and #2 you can treat and protect virtually any plant, tree or fruit you could possibly have at your home. I ordered #2, the Bayer Advanced 12 Months Tree & Shrub Protect and Feed'. Since the concentration of Imidacloprid is 5.81 times higher than in #1, I will have to reduce the dose accordingly for some of the plants. This should be fairly easy, since I have the label instructions for both products. A once a year application should protect everything.
Any suggestions will be welcomed.
P.S. I plan the keep the 'Cocktail Citrus' plant in a large earthenware pot.

Okay. First off, you have not told us what your tree was diagnosed with. The reason you saw the treatment info, was due to citrus quarantines in your state, and that all citrus must be treated before it's shipped within your state. Just because it was treated prior to shipment, does not mean you need to keep dousing the tree with Imidicloprid. You need to know what wrong with your tree, first. That's like taking Penicillin because your sick, but not bothering to go to a doctor to get diagnosed. If your tree, indeed, is infected with the bacterium that causes HLB (Huanglongbing), Imidicloprid is completely inappropriate, and will do absolutely nothing to get rid of HLB. HLB is not treatable, and if this is in fact your issue, your tree or trees will eventually die. And worse, while your trees are still alive, they are infectious, and can spread HLB to other citrus trees in your area. All it takes is having the Asian Citrus Psyllid land on that tree, take a bite, then fly away to another uninfected tree.

But, since we have no idea what we're dealing with, then we need to get a diagnosis. I would call your local extension office, and have an extension officer come out and visually inspect your trees. Forget about having to send an "orange colored orange". See if they will come out and tell you whether or not you have HLB. Cutting the tree off and the "Y" again will not fix anything, HLB or other infections, as they are systemic, and would still be present in the rest of the tree. Let's find out what's ailing your tree, first, before we pull out the chainsaw, tractor or the Imidicloprid.

Patty S.

Thanks hoosierquilt. I agree with you but there are other issues. Here in Central Florida, the citrus industry is being devastated. I will try again to get someone to come and look at the trees. Now lets be logical. If the existing trees suffer from something other than HLB, Imidicloprid will prevent additional infestation and damage from insects. My new healthy and treated tree will benefit from not getting HLB or insect damage. The product literature from Bayer says that Imidicloprid prevents insect damage in virtually all plants and I can use it for my apple and avocado trees as well as in my garden. I do not live in a municipality; I live in the bushes where where wildlife and insects reign supreme. You would not believe the amount of vegetable and plant damage I have had to insects due to insufficient spraying. Imidicloprid should make it easier. I plan to follow the instruction explicitly and thus be ok.

Put Imidacloprid, if you wish; but it isn't going to solve your problem. I don't see any evidence of insect damage; your photos look like nutrient deficiency; I would get some mixed chelated minerals and give your plants a shot of that, in the absence of better professional advice. After that I would apply a good quality foliar fertilizer every 15 days for a cupla months and see what happens;I like Bayer Bayfolan; but there are lots of good brands; also water deeply about every 5-7 days this time of year.
I have some young cara cara trees at my lemon farm and they seem to be a hungry variety; you should be fertilizing your tree maybe 4 times per year.

FYI my commercial trees get Imidicloprid and Bayer Silvacur fungicide twice per year; both are contact active and later systemic; for me they are sort of an insurance policy, as I live in a land of bugs and mold. My garden trees, however do not get the imidacloprid, as I see them every day and can deal with insects either by washing, hand removal, or occasional treatment with simpler chemicals.

Hi Johnmerr!
Thanks for your suggestion and the info. BUT...the pictures you are talking about are NOT mine.
I just finished talking to the county agricultural agent and they want me to send them some pictures. I will go ahead and post some also.
Again, thank you very much.

here is one of the pictures. Does anyone know what is wrong?
Thanks

Looks like it could well be HLB; if it is, I would cut the tree and burn it; but I am not sure how they are dealing with this issue today in Florida. Better ask the experts, as you have already done. Thank God we don't yet have HLB in Guatemala; but two of our bordering countries, Honduras and Belize do have it, so we are being super wary.

HLB or yellow dragon looks totally different. That looks like a micro nutrient deficiency. HLB will start in one area and yellow just that area. Eventually the entire tree will die but not like the pic shows. The tree above looks normal to me minus some magnesium. manganese, iron, etc... deficiencies. But as everyone said, you will never know unless you get it tested. Also, when you look at a leave infected with HLB it will resemble a micro deficiency BUT it will not look even on both sides of the leave (left and right not front and back). HLB has yellow blotches out of uniformity on the leave and eventually turns completely yellow and only in one area of the entire tree. Eventually leading to death.

Johnmerr;

hereis another picture.

I agree with blaze, this doesn't look like HLB, but looks like underfertilization. I would fertilize with a very good citrus fertilizer that contains all the micronutrients as well as the appropriate NPK ratio for citrus. If you do a Google search for HLB, you'll see photos of what makes HLB so distinctive - asymmetrical coloration or paleness on the leaves. Yours appears to be symmetrical to me, which would be an indication of low nitrogen or micronutrient deficiencies (such as iron or manganese.) Take good, close up photos of your leaves so your extension agent can get a clear photo of the tops of several leaves or leaf groups. Then, an overall photo of your tree.

Patty S.

Diva, here is a good link with lots of HLB info for Florida for you.

Patty S.

Here is a link that might be useful: HLB in Florida

Scary stuff

Thank you all for the info furnished.. I am in t he hospital right now and will be in touch when I get out. I was in my yard and had my hand in an Azalea bush. It felt like I hit the back of my wrist against a dead branch or something. It bled quite a bit and I was able to clean it and get it stopped. About two bays later the area started to it get the skin was sensitive to the touch. The next day the sensitivity was worse and whole hand turned a darker color and swelled. When the swelling got worse I saw my doctor, who put me into the hospital. They do not know for sure, I either have a bad infection or was bitten by some insect or small snake. The blood test are not in yet.

Oh my gosh, Dietmar! I'm an RN. I will be thinking of you. I hope for a swift diagnosis and speedy recovery!

Patty S.

Dietmar1, First of all I hope you are out of the hospital and well.
I'm in NW Volusia county and my 16 year old navel tree looks similar to yours. My branches are darker after the leaves drop and I saw oozing with a little splitting of bark on a couple of them. I fertilize regularly and water when needed as this is a mature tree. I have commercial groves nearby and have been trying to catch one of the growers to look at it. In the meantime, I have cut back the branches to good wood.

Hi judyk_2008

Thanks for asking about me. A few days of antibiotics and IVs and everything cleared up. Now about the trees. I have been pruning back all the dead branches, fertilized a lot more, and watered more. I am beginning to see some new growth. I also added Imidicloprid. All I can do now is to continue what I started and see what happens. I you get any useful info, please let me know. Incidentally, I live just south of you between Scottsmoor and Mims.

Dietmar, did you ever get the tree actually diagnosed? If there is no disease or bug infestation, no need to use an insecticide. Important to actually get a diagnosis so you can then get the proper corrective actions in place Really glad you're better, that is scary stuff to pick up an infection from gardening. I worry about that probably more than I should, but it comes with the territory, being a nurse. You should definitely be fertilizing this tree every 2 months through the growing season with the proper amount of fertilizer for the size of the tree to get it in good health. It really just looks to be under fertilized to me, and no sign of any insect infestation or systemic disease.

Patty S.

I just killed 5 black widows yesterday before they had a chance to bite anybody. They hide in the sneakiest places. Not saying you were bit by one but it made me think of it.

While I would normally agree that using an insecticide when no insects are present is not wise, HLB management in Florida is the grand exception. The bacteria are transferred by psyllid insects while they feed, and it usually takes a while for the transfer, after they begin feeding. If you can kill them before the transfer takes place, you can prevent infection. Therefore, the use of imidacloprid on healthy, insect-free trees is, indeed, highly recommended here, especially on young trees.

Dr Manners... Thank you sooo much for validating what I and my gurus/friends at Texas A&M Citrus Research Center believe. No ACP, no HLB. We do not yet have HLB or to our best knowledge the ACP; but Belize and Honduras, our neighbors DO; for that we are pressuring the Minister of Agriculture to put traps along the borders. We CAN control the ACP; no one can control the HLB. In my case of Meyer lemons (probably diet favorite number one for the ACP). We put Imidacloprid twice per year; it is a preventative measure for HLB, should it come here; it is also an insurance policy against citrus scale. I tank mix it with Bayer Silvacur which gives the same sort of protection against molds, other fungi, gressy spot, etc. Here's a picture of my 22 month Meyers.

hoosierquilt, I took some branches to the agricultural agent and they say it is NOT greening. What a relief. They say the trees nee a lot more Citrus Fertilizer and water. I am following their suggestion and see what happens.

Very good to hear. This was my original comment I believe :-) Definitely you'll want to mulch your tree well to help retain soil moisture, just keep the mulch about 6" from the trunk to prevent foot rot. And, I see Dr. Manners has weighed in on a regular Imidicloprid management program due to the high risk for HLB in Florida. Dr. Manners, do you have a link for Dietmar that she can follow for an Imidicloprid program? Are you all recommending something systemtic applied to the soil on a regular basis, or a foliar spraying program? Or, does it matter? We're getting very concerned here in N. San Diego county, as we've had several more instances of the ACP being found in our area. None have been found to carry HLB at this time, but as you know, it's just a matter of time for us. I may decide to start treating my nearly 70 citrus trees I have now, as as a safeguard.

Patty S.

Patty,

You can google Bayer Crop Science; they are the creators of Imidacloprid and I am a big fan of Bayer products. My advisors tell me to use a tank mix of Bayer Silvacur with Bayer Leverage (imidacloprid) twice per year; the first is fungicide. Both are topically effective and then enter the plant as systemic; and best of all they do not kill the beneficials that control aphids, scale, etc., as imidacloprid only kills sucking and chewing insects.

Dpes it make a difference if it's potted lemon tree?