biondanonima's ideas

Reply to: mama goose,,,, if you click and copy the URL for the picture, then come here and click on Houzz Photo, paste URL, and submit, it will post the picture. this way people don't have to click on a link in your comment. (hope this helps) this sink is a bit diff, but OP, should give you an idea of what works w/it. Since your sink is built along how this one is, you can see how the cabinets work around it. This is a soft creamy pale yellow. Full inset cabinets, marble or soapstone countertops, vintage type of hardware, This is probably my favorite sage cabinets w/soapstone. love the copper accents The terra cotta floors are also amazing w/the green and black here's your cream and un-oiled soapstone I've never seen a yellow planked ceiling, but it looks great w/the creamy white and black. oiled. Pale sage cabinets This one is SW Halcyon Green. marble countertops. (do you have an island or a separate countertop area you could do some marble?)

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Reply to: Move on to Option C & D. See if there are KitchenCraft, DuraSupreme, Medallion, or Omega dealers aground. They all offer frameless. Skip the plywood. It isn't needed ever.

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Reply to: Sorry for the delay, I posted an entire "thought" last night, only to find out it never posted :( So here goes again. I may break this into two parts, in case it was too long. Here is the part number for my clear coat for my lower cabinets from a SW Products & Finishes Facility. I am told you can call and order by phone and they ship too, if you're not as fortunate to live close by a location like I do. See my previous post on how to locate a SW Products & Finishes Store. The guys that work there are great and very knowledgable about coatings. Sayerlack Hyrdoplus in Satin by SW is the product My Part Number : A98XXW7225-8456 (the last 4 digits tells a SW employee what store it was mixed at in case they have questions) As always, it could look different on your wood, in your lighting, in your house, and on your product...but this was where we ended up. I believe the ratio was something like 20 parts clear to 1 part white - in case some of you would rather try it on your own with your own product. The product is very nice, and we had professional painters spray our cabinets. I am very pleased with how they turned out. Since the most all-consuming part of the project for us was the selecting, testing, trial, error, and sampling of stains, it has been on my heart to post ours once we narrowed it down. We worked closely with SW to correct (or add) or thin, or re-try...and I realize that is an advantage I have living close by a store...but with the right product. One could start out with VERY minimal white paint and add it to their clear coat until they find the right ratio. {The uppers are BM simply white}

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Reply to: We too chose custom rift sawn white oak cabinetry. I liked the pics I was seeing, like this thread shows, which looked raw and natural and appear unfinished - even after the finished clear coat. After my GC & I both attempted many custom and OTC stains (to no avail), we just added the smallest amount of white paint to a water based clear coat, and once we found our lightest liking on the sample board, he then took that formula to be paint/stain matched at Sherman Williams. Everything else we tried failed, either too brown, too dark, too white, or too grainy. Just a very small amt of white paint mixed into the clear coat worked for us. Be careful, maroon-based white could have a different effect on the finished product than white paint that is green based. It can tend to pull too pink if you're not careful. It was a game of mix n match until we found the right color. In the lightest and darkest of natural light so far, they get raving compliments and look really pretty. Lights, countertops and backsplash get installed next week!

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Reply to: There are so many options when designing a period kitchen. Creamy white is a great choice with soapstone, but colors work well too. I think the key is to incorporate lots of organic materials and texture, like wood (flooring/beams/butcher block countertops), brick, and warm colors. I'd avoid too much gray and white. I love that you would rather have a kitchen table than an island. Here are some of my favorites: Also, check out Amy Mitchell's blog--she's a designer in New Hampshire who recently renovated the kitchen in her 1700s farmhouse. https://homeglowdesign.com/2020/09/26/remuddle-remodel-reveal-unfitted-beige-kitchen/

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Reply to: I'm not sure where you are in NJ, but we are located about an hour north of Philly. I have two kitchen designers that you might want to talk to. First is Liz Walton: http://lizwaltonhome.com/. Her cabinets are made by the Amish and the literally can do everything. Second is Carol R. Cherry http://kitchensbycarol.com/wordpress1/. Both are independent KDs. Both are amazing designers and both have done work for me multiple times. Good luck!

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Reply to: It's a little late, but I found this.

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Reply to: I anticipate this in my kitchen as well, the ceiling has visible slope. Having read a lot of tips about it in old houzz threads, I think a few of them would be worthwile to you as well. I think what your contractor did is acceptable and I would not look for a fix. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/1194419/kitchen-cabinets-and-uneven-wavy-ceiling https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2574661/13-inch-cabinet-crown-sounds-huge-positano-anyone https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2674090/cabinets-installed-ceiling-not-level-help

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Reply to: My husband built our old entertainment system with a reduced face frame - just slightly wider than the 3/4" plywood sides and it held up for decades. When we replaced it with cherry cabinets in the family room redo, the entertainment system cabinets went to our kids. These didn't have a countertop but they were 7' tall so they had plenty of weight to hold. Even with a narrow frame, you will loose space between drawers if the frame goes between each pair of drawers as is typical in framed cabinets. In the entertainment system my DH built, the face frame only went around the edge and between the drawer and door sections. There was no frame between each set of drawers which saves a lot of wasted space.

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Reply to: Yes ours have a frame. I liked this look better and we have the space. If you don't (on either one), you can decide to go with the frameless drawers but decide whether that extra amount of storage (not sure how much it would be in your case but I think it would be fairly small) overrides the look. Personal choice - only adding my view!

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Reply to: Or this. Buy the look you love.

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Reply to: sparklingwater, these are our frameless inset cabs. We have slab doors, but of course you could use any style.

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Reply to: In "a pretty small galley kitchen" a gain of space can be useful. Losing cubic inches is not wise if you only have a few banks of drawers. Frameless cabinets give a significantly larger amount of volume inside them compared to the framed alternative. It is worth keeping frameless in a small space. Drawers inside frameless boxes are an efficient use of space. Drawers inside framed boxes are not efficient: they waste space. If the drawers are narrow, the wasted space is a lot compared to the useable space inside the drawers. If the drawers are wide, the wasted space is less than in the previous sentence. Nobody can give you a specific number of wasted cubic volume because they haven't seen the size of the frame you might use and the width of the drawers in your plan. The look of the drawer fronts is a separate question, unrelated to the box inside. You can have the look you like. Whatever look. Full overlay Shaker-style door and slab-front drawer. Or anything else. It's all superficial when compared to the framed-frameless structure of the boxes behind the drawer fronts. Using frameless boxes, it is also an option to have an inset look. This is "good to know" if one is considering all the many alternatives. Nobody seems to go about building inset + frameless or recommending it, but it can be done. To build frameless boxes from scratch requires better tools and skills than framed boxes. This is a big reason why it is only offered by the biggest companies. Once the box has been built (or cut and packaged so that it's Ready-To-Assemble = "RTA" cabinet) from then on it's easy peasy, easy as pie, a no-brainer, numbskull simple. Is there a reason to use framed in smaller kitchens? No, except if you want it. Is there a reason to use frameless in smaller kitchens? Yes Is there a reason to use frameless in drawer-centric kitchens? Yes

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Reply to: Excellent Explanation Artemis. Clue-Colorado, Beautiful Buffet. It does not matter if it Framed, Inset or Modern it is beautiful! And the fact you know what you like is half the battle to finding the right cabinet style. I think what you want are period looking cabinets that have the simple style of your "frameless" buffett. Why don't we look at simple kitchen cabinets (Inset and Frameless) in the quarter swan oak material. From there we can find some ideas that will work for your space and give you the look you desire. Lets base the look on the buffet. Here goes.. ~boxer Cook and Cook Cabinetry (they do period cabs and beautiful renovations) Vintage Cabinetry Plum perfect Vintage Kitchens Oak Vintage Craftman Quarter Sawn Oak Crown Point Frameless Oak Stavraki Co. from Chicago Tree House Co. Quarter Sawn Oak Revival Wide Oak floor Kennebec Stained Tiger (I think this is maple) Kennebec Qrt Sawn Oak Pantry Kennebec Oak Breakfast Okay not a kitchen but Quarter Sawn Oak by Kennebec Co. Kennebec Co. Kennebec 7 Frameless Cook and Cook 86 Cook and Cook 84 Cook and Cook Co. 1 Vintage Kitchens 9 (SOAPSTONE!!!) Okay if you have gotten this far and you realize that all these are toooooo Vintage or not what you wanted me to find. No worries. Just tell me if amy were close to what you were looking for. And I will try to find more in the family of cabs. Most of the above are Qrt Sawn Oak so there is going to be a slight difference to the pic you showed of your buffet. No worries. I will try to find more if you need them. I urge you to check out Plain and Fancy and Crystal Cab web sites. They might help you with ideas. And help you discover more about inset, frameless and oak. ~boxer

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Reply to: Well then that is where you need to begin.... if there are construction projects that will potentially change the space - sort that out first to see if it is a yes or no option.... you will make yourself crazy designing and redesigning only to change it all if the construction can go through or not.... right now you could focus on finishes and materials while the construction option estimates are worked on...

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Reply to: AHA! I just found what I knew was lurking in my memory bank. Danielle00's wonderful kitchen. GBISM, I don't know if the oak/soapstone combo interests you or just the type of cabinets, but look at her kitchen. Thanks again all the info and photos, love your office histokitch - we won't even go into my mad love for your beautiful kitchen! Here is a link that might be useful: Crown Point frameless, quartersawn oak

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Reply to: I am fairly partial to showplace as well, I spent a few years selling their products and would highly recommend them. But, in your case their is no real reason that I can point out to choose them over Shiloh. They are also a good brand, and comparable, and the pricing is better. You get what you want for less money.

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Reply to: Yep...my kd has a Shiloh display with inset that is beautiful. Very reasonable pricing. Look at Mouser also if available. Brookhaven by Woodmode runs occasional no upcharge on inset and are gorgeous.

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Reply to: Look at High Point Cabinets, Mullet, and Schrocks of Walnut Creek. Those are the 3 large ones that are very highly recommended.

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Reply to: I presume this is a shower? I’m sorry this is happening to you. It’s so disappointing when “pros” take your money and deliver such poor work. Since he said he would do what was needed to make it right, tell him to hire a real tile professional, and for him to pay that person to re-demo and do the whole project over. Have a contract that details what the waterproofing materials and methods will be, and have a phrase like this in the contract: “All work will comply with industry standards, TCNA guidelines, local building codes, and manufacturer’s instructions.” This time, take in-progress pictures as things roll along, including pictures of all the buckets, supplies and tool that are on site. Read on ctef and national tile association websites some tips for hiring a qualified pro. On the ctef site listed above, for my zip code, only 2 companies come up. But when I search on https://www.tile-assn.com I got a lot more hits. Even though I know you are super busy with work, you should read up on what a real tile pro should do, especially about waterproofing. If you want to watch a couple YouTube videos, limit yourself to Sal Diblasi’s videos otherwise you could get sucked down a YouTube hole of mis-information. Make sure whoever your GC hires is actually trained and experienced.

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Reply to: Took a picture or two today which might be of interest:

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Reply to: So here's what you do. And this will be long. You meet with the installer and explain that you have multiple concerns. Tell him you expected when he presented himself as a professional, that he was going to perform this work in accordance with industry and manufacturer standards (as well as any local codes). Explain that you are concerned that his prep, prior to tile installation, is not in accordance with standards. If he disagrees, ask him to provide you with the standards he followed (TCNA Guidelines, ANSI Specifications, material manufacturer specifications for use in showers, including the Durock). Also explain that you expected if there was any question about the layout of the tile, he would have asked you first as the layout is not what you wanted. Further, the small sliver tiles are unacceptable (and they ARE unacceptable and also not in accordance with workmanship guidelines by TCNA). Ask him to tear it out, buy you new tile, and document and perform the re-do work in accordance to the standards. Regardless of his answer, follow up with a written recap of your expectations and his response. If he refuses to re-do the work, fire him without pay (and request a refund for what you have paid). Then hire a professional to do the job. Here's the thing, and I know this is long, but very important: The only way to reduce the unprofessional jobs is for the consumer to not ACCEPT the unprofessional jobs. There are thousands of us in the industry who are professionals and perform high quality work. We talk and we share stories like yours as examples of what gets in the way of the profession. We call them "tile fails" and there is even an industry site for sharing these (you should see the comments), and no, I'm not sharing yours. There is no job we loathe more than tearing out failed work and re-doing it properly. As for the cost. Someone mentioned 6k for labor. That's not unusual but it is location dependent. I'd guess 8K here. A 6k shower is not $80/sf in labor. There is a good amount of $ in proper prep & setting, and finishing materials, to start. Many of us do not charge by the square ft. We charge what we know will be a fair price for our labor and materials and level of craftsmanship. $70-78/hour for a pro is not unreasonable in our area. They do after all have insurance, taxes overhead, etc. and the right for a wage commensurate with their experience and craft. A helper or apprentice may be used at a lower rate for certain aspects of the job under supervision of the pro. Showers are more than floors, for example. Large format is more than a standard size tile installation. An upstairs bath or condo unit is more than main floor. You get the idea. There are variables. Tear out might be a day and 1/2 at $500/day. Don't forget disposal would be extra if no receptacle is on site. As for the comment above "jeez poor tile installer", no, not poor tile installer. Tile installer is responsible for confirming tile pattern before install. And the "sorry this is on you...relinquishing your responsibility", no, you didn't relinquish your responsibility anywhere but in the hiring process in that you hired someone who did not have the experience or credentials to do a professional job. Sorry you're dealing with this.

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