Do all ripout first, then while you have everything open, start putting it back. I had a whole house that I'm still living in, damage driven.

I ripped floors to the joists then replaced them, and since I needed to tackle wiring, water, windows and 'liveability' as well as some retros for more energy efficient....

Identify all structural walls before you touch anything. Identify all circuits; what is on what, and label them clearly. (I put masking tape on wall at each outlet or fixture and used a trouble light laid where I could see it plugged into the outlet I was checking on the panel... and check BOTH outlet sockets. I have run into something wired separately! Then went through and tagged all lights and light switches. Get one of those circuit tester things that light up, and be religious about using it.

Identify all water; all shutoffs, what they shut off, if they will shut off; and if it doesn't have a shutoff, where can you turn it off, even if it means turning off at the meter.

If it involves Natural Gas, don't touch it and call a pro. That one is not negotiable. I had a leak under at my furnace a couple of years ago, and the city's sniffer unit was literally lost (it may have walked and they had to buy a new one) and the gas company's was broken at the repair; so we ended up buying our own. I can test for leaks but I let the pros do it.

Beware of needing permits and pull them!!!!!!!!!!

Some things may not be up to code, but are grandfathered in. Once you touch it, you have to bring it up to code. In older construction you might run into asbestos, especially for pipe insulation. It is manageable, sometimes it is 'encased in place' and left, sometimes it has to be abated. Big thing is don't let it get airborne. If you find black mold you will have to encase in place, abate (remove) and probably replace what wood has been affected. I have done the latter myself, it is a PAIN but possible to do correctly and safely.

One you have done ripout and tracing, schedule replacement...

I did have gas furnace, main power, and gas water heater moved, and the connections for the gas stove moved.

In order: permits. Ripout. Assess anything hidden. Contain/repair/replace any hidden damage first. This can be leaks in ceiling, mold in walls, crumbling structural...

Repair outside shell first if needed, you need to stay weathertight. If you are going to replace windows, siding, roof; do those first. If you have to redo insulation, do it after that tempered by having to run wiring or plumbing.

Moving to inside shell; if anything needs code compliance, do that next. I did water first, then gas, then electrical. I had a 100 amp feed, code is now 125, and I went to 200, and changed circuits (added some, and replaced wiring and outlets on some existing to bring them from 15 to 20 amp) Then start closing up, floor first so you can walk safely; and I laid all my floors. THEN covered and protected my floors with luan, cardboard, drop cloths...

At the time you touch the electrical... I had the pole to mast replaced (gratis, power company) and electrician to do meter to new box and the box was moved. I did most of the grunt work and everything was open to be inspected, saving me a lot of $ on having the electrician in.

Take pictures of any open wall or floor, this is your Xray eyes later. Borrow a good high resolution high megapixel camera to take these, you want all the detail you can get.

Furnace move was a minimal of gas and electricity and I was able to do my own duct work after for the changes.

Plumbing I did almost all of it, worst part was learning how to work with PEX. I had plumber in mostly to help some of the wastewater piping and getting the toilets, tub, and showerpan seals right to the wastewater and my venting correct. No sewer gas and no LEAKING.

Then move to drywall and fixing walls, reskinning that and/or ceilings. THEN, sinks, toilets, shower pans and tubs. You may have to juggle on when you have your plumber in, on repairing floor/laying floor; and reskinning the wall, whatever they need to install at the time. As in stand by and be ready. Some things are better if the walls and floors are open, some stuff may be needed to be done after. You might have to have the plumber come twice to be more economical in your overall progression.

Kitchen cabinets need to be in to have countertops done, which have to be done before the sink can be finish installed and the faucets and disposer; and dishwasher.

If you are having an electrican come in to do work, they may have to come to hook up appliances in the kitchen and/or laundry room. A possible 2 visits by the electrician as well.

Laundry room is on the same time schedule as your kitchen.... usually though you can have that all finished up and ready for the W/D to be put in place.

If you are DIYing, your walls get paint and the last of the fixtures go on (outlet covers, attaching wall sconces and ceiling mounted pendant lights) in that order.

Kitchen and bathrooms then get their tile/backsplashes.

I did floor tiling in bathrooms at time of floor reinstall and put most of my plumbing in place at that time; plumber did most of the waste work one day then came back a couple days later to put the connections for toilet and showerpan and tub; and stubbed and capped the three sinks and the washer drain.

The kitchen and bathroom finish tiling (aka countertops and backsplash) will be amongst the last work I do.

Hope you get an idea on the sequencing; about the only thing I didn't have to do was completely reside, and reroof. I do have a small hole to deal with where I removed a corner fireplace that was more of a hazard than it was worth... through my roof, I tore it out Sunday. Then I will be shell tight again...

Plan at least 20% for overruns. When you buy supplies like drywall, dimensional lumber, plywood, buy 10-15% more. Get the extra pail of thinset if you are playing with tile, it will take more than you can imagine. If you get hit with a structural issue, all bets are off on budget. (that is what happened to me). If you are buying flooring, tile, brickwork, veneer stone, pavers, buy 20% more as you may have one odd lot and have to open everything and mix it in; or work with the one off tint lot as a 'design feature'. If you have more than one container of paint (can or pail) get a large enough container to open ALL of the batch into and mix it, you may have one offtint (I've seen this on house painting) and this will make it all the same.

If you are your own general contractor, you are THE person to run if a sub is out of something or needs something. Their time costs you money and you have to keep them going. If something goes sideways you have to fix it or find it. If there's something that has to be done to keep it on schedule and you elect to do it yourself you HAVE TO DO IT on schedule and on time. (doing your own demo)

Renting a skip dumpster, some places need a permit just to park it at the site; and there are many that either want to dump something INTO your dumpster or 'raid it' for what's in it. Be warned. And there are some things you can't put in a dumpster. Also beware of the load limits and level of debris.