Gardening Guides
How to Deadhead Roses and Other Garden Favorites
Follow this basic guide and learn how to properly deadhead roses and other flowers
Dying flowers detract from the beauty of garden borders and beds. Deadheading, or snipping them off, directs a plant’s energy into stronger growth and therefore more blossoms. I often get asked about why we need to deadhead roses and other plants, especially how and when to do it. This isn’t about pruning exactly, but rather about prolonging the bloom. Below are our best tips for deadheading some familiar plants.
Rambling and climbing roses. The flower clusters are called trusses, and many people like to leave some in place because they turn into rose hips, which birds enjoy eating.
For deadheading rose bushes and climbing roses, use hand pruners that are sharp enough to avoid tearing the plant. Make sure that you cut down to a node (the joint in the stem where a bud, branch or leaf starts to grow), which will then form side shoots for more flowers. Some varieties aren’t repeat-flowering, but doing this small amount of cutting back will still energize the plant. Make all cuts at a 45-degree angle to prevent water from getting in and damaging the plant, which may lead to fungal disease.
To prevent “balling,” where the flower bud stays closed like a ball due to rain, remove the outer layers of petals to allow the bud inside to open.
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For deadheading rose bushes and climbing roses, use hand pruners that are sharp enough to avoid tearing the plant. Make sure that you cut down to a node (the joint in the stem where a bud, branch or leaf starts to grow), which will then form side shoots for more flowers. Some varieties aren’t repeat-flowering, but doing this small amount of cutting back will still energize the plant. Make all cuts at a 45-degree angle to prevent water from getting in and damaging the plant, which may lead to fungal disease.
To prevent “balling,” where the flower bud stays closed like a ball due to rain, remove the outer layers of petals to allow the bud inside to open.
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Hydrangeas
Depending on the variety of hydrangea, different methods apply. For mopheads and lacecaps (the latter is pictured here), you can deadhead the flowers immediately as they die off, or leave them on the plant over the winter if you don’t mind the blooms becoming dry or turning brown. There is a benefit to leaving them on until the following spring — it will help protect the new season’s growth against frost. Come spring, you can chop them off: In this instance, cut back the spent flower to the nearest node on the stem below.
Lacecap hydrangea. Since lacecaps are hardier, it’s probably best to cut the faded flowers back to the second pair of leaves below the head.
Climbing hydrangea. For climbers, I suggest cutting back overlong shoots — leggy ones that don’t have much foliage — as soon as they have flowered.
Panicle and wild hydrangeas. With these varieties (Hydrangea paniculata and H. arborescens, respectively), remove the deadwood in the spring, cutting back last year’s stems to a healthy pair of buds to achieve a good framework.
Oakleaf hydrangea. H. quercifolia needs minimal pruning — just enough to remove the dead, overlong stems.
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Depending on the variety of hydrangea, different methods apply. For mopheads and lacecaps (the latter is pictured here), you can deadhead the flowers immediately as they die off, or leave them on the plant over the winter if you don’t mind the blooms becoming dry or turning brown. There is a benefit to leaving them on until the following spring — it will help protect the new season’s growth against frost. Come spring, you can chop them off: In this instance, cut back the spent flower to the nearest node on the stem below.
Lacecap hydrangea. Since lacecaps are hardier, it’s probably best to cut the faded flowers back to the second pair of leaves below the head.
Climbing hydrangea. For climbers, I suggest cutting back overlong shoots — leggy ones that don’t have much foliage — as soon as they have flowered.
Panicle and wild hydrangeas. With these varieties (Hydrangea paniculata and H. arborescens, respectively), remove the deadwood in the spring, cutting back last year’s stems to a healthy pair of buds to achieve a good framework.
Oakleaf hydrangea. H. quercifolia needs minimal pruning — just enough to remove the dead, overlong stems.
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Flowering Shrubs
Azalea and rhododendron. Snap off the spent trusses after flowering, but be careful not to damage the new young growth coming through underneath. Some of the plants in your garden may be too big to do this. If that’s the case, focus on the younger plants and any parts of the larger ones you can reach easily. If you don’t deadhead these shrubs, the plants will waste their energy making big, fat seedpods, inhibiting growth and limiting bloom the following season.
Camellia. Get your hand behind the flower head and pinch off the spent bloom.
Lilac. Use pruners to cut to the base of the flower stem. This will improve the appearance of the plant and encourage the production of new blooms on the shrub.
Caution: Rhododendron and azalea leaves are poisonous if ingested.
Azalea and rhododendron. Snap off the spent trusses after flowering, but be careful not to damage the new young growth coming through underneath. Some of the plants in your garden may be too big to do this. If that’s the case, focus on the younger plants and any parts of the larger ones you can reach easily. If you don’t deadhead these shrubs, the plants will waste their energy making big, fat seedpods, inhibiting growth and limiting bloom the following season.
Camellia. Get your hand behind the flower head and pinch off the spent bloom.
Lilac. Use pruners to cut to the base of the flower stem. This will improve the appearance of the plant and encourage the production of new blooms on the shrub.
Caution: Rhododendron and azalea leaves are poisonous if ingested.
Cosmos
Deadhead the more tender annuals, such as Cosmos bipinnatus and C. sulphureus, for a constant sea of bright daisylike flowers. Make sure that you cut the stem back to the first leaf rather than removing just the flower head.
Deadhead the more tender annuals, such as Cosmos bipinnatus and C. sulphureus, for a constant sea of bright daisylike flowers. Make sure that you cut the stem back to the first leaf rather than removing just the flower head.
Sweet Peas
Sweet peas need to be deadheaded regularly to remove seedpods and encourage more flowers to develop. If you go away, consider asking a neighbor, friend or relative to keep on top of them, or you will have none of these wonderfully scented flowers when you return.
Caution: Sweet pea seeds contain toxic amino acids.
Sweet peas need to be deadheaded regularly to remove seedpods and encourage more flowers to develop. If you go away, consider asking a neighbor, friend or relative to keep on top of them, or you will have none of these wonderfully scented flowers when you return.
Caution: Sweet pea seeds contain toxic amino acids.
Foxgloves, Delphiniums and Lupines
The tall spires of foxgloves, delphiniums and lupines can be removed, but this will produce only small flowers lower down the stem. These plants can’t be guaranteed to produce a second flush of blossoms, but if they do, the flowers won’t be as good as the first ones earlier in the season.
However, if you prefer not to deadhead and you leave the old flower spikes on the plant, you will have tall spires of green pods full of seeds that will naturalize around the garden. Delphiniums will sometimes flower again in September if you cut them back, but remember to leave some foliage. They will look a bit ratty for a while, but give them some liquid fertilizer and keep up any slug treatment until new leaves start to appear at ground level. Then, later in the year, you may be rewarded with a second flush of blooms.
Caution: All parts of foxgloves are poisonous.
The tall spires of foxgloves, delphiniums and lupines can be removed, but this will produce only small flowers lower down the stem. These plants can’t be guaranteed to produce a second flush of blossoms, but if they do, the flowers won’t be as good as the first ones earlier in the season.
However, if you prefer not to deadhead and you leave the old flower spikes on the plant, you will have tall spires of green pods full of seeds that will naturalize around the garden. Delphiniums will sometimes flower again in September if you cut them back, but remember to leave some foliage. They will look a bit ratty for a while, but give them some liquid fertilizer and keep up any slug treatment until new leaves start to appear at ground level. Then, later in the year, you may be rewarded with a second flush of blooms.
Caution: All parts of foxgloves are poisonous.
Hardy Geraniums and Pelargoniums
Hardy geraniums (pictured) and pelargoniums will continue to bloom if you keep deadheading. If you have the patience, you can remove each flower once it’s done, or wait until the entire cluster is spent and remove it from the base where it meets the main stem. Try to remove fallen petals from the soil below, as these will promote fungal growth, especially on damp soils.
Since fleshy-leaved pelargoniums (often called geraniums) grow on straight stems, you can be a little more drastic earlier on to create a bushier plant by pinching off the tip of the young plant when it reaches 3 inches. This will encourage the plant to form side shoots.
After deadheading, it’s a good idea to feed the plants with a high-potash fertilizer.
Caution: Pelargonium leaves may cause skin irritation in some people, so wear gloves.
Hardy geraniums (pictured) and pelargoniums will continue to bloom if you keep deadheading. If you have the patience, you can remove each flower once it’s done, or wait until the entire cluster is spent and remove it from the base where it meets the main stem. Try to remove fallen petals from the soil below, as these will promote fungal growth, especially on damp soils.
Since fleshy-leaved pelargoniums (often called geraniums) grow on straight stems, you can be a little more drastic earlier on to create a bushier plant by pinching off the tip of the young plant when it reaches 3 inches. This will encourage the plant to form side shoots.
After deadheading, it’s a good idea to feed the plants with a high-potash fertilizer.
Caution: Pelargonium leaves may cause skin irritation in some people, so wear gloves.
Lavenders and Catmint
Who doesn’t love a bit of lavender in their garden? And as long as you have put this fragrant Mediterranean plant in a sunny, sheltered spot in very well-drained soil, you should have strong plants for many years.
English lavender. Lavandula angustifolia, which blooms in June and July, should be deadheaded or given a light clip right after flowering, avoiding any cuts into old wood. This will encourage bushy side growth and ensure that you have a more compact plant.
Spanish lavender. L. stoechas, which flowers in May, needs regular deadheading. Remove each head, along with a bit of the stalk, after it has faded, leaving the rest of the plant as is. This will ensure that the plant continues to flower, albeit more weakly, well into autumn.
Catmint. Nepeta, including ‘Six Hills Giant’ and ‘Walker’s Low’, is often grown as a lavender substitute. With these, you can simply chop back the plant throughout the year after flowering, and you will be blessed with continuous blooms well into autumn.
Who doesn’t love a bit of lavender in their garden? And as long as you have put this fragrant Mediterranean plant in a sunny, sheltered spot in very well-drained soil, you should have strong plants for many years.
English lavender. Lavandula angustifolia, which blooms in June and July, should be deadheaded or given a light clip right after flowering, avoiding any cuts into old wood. This will encourage bushy side growth and ensure that you have a more compact plant.
Spanish lavender. L. stoechas, which flowers in May, needs regular deadheading. Remove each head, along with a bit of the stalk, after it has faded, leaving the rest of the plant as is. This will ensure that the plant continues to flower, albeit more weakly, well into autumn.
Catmint. Nepeta, including ‘Six Hills Giant’ and ‘Walker’s Low’, is often grown as a lavender substitute. With these, you can simply chop back the plant throughout the year after flowering, and you will be blessed with continuous blooms well into autumn.
Tulips, Daffodils and Crocuses
Deadheading bulbs like daffodils and tulips unfortunately doesn’t lead to new blooms, but if you aren’t using the seeds for propagation purposes, then it’s better to remove the spent flowers. (If you are using the seeds to propagate, wait until they dry on the stem before collecting.)
Cut the flower stalk to its base and leave the foliage on the plant. By removing the seed head of the plant, energy will be conserved and directed toward next year’s display. You should then wait about six weeks to cut the remaining leaves and dead foliage. During this time, make sure you keep watering and feeding the bulbs with a general-purpose fertilizer.
Crocuses will naturalize without deadheading.
Deadheading bulbs like daffodils and tulips unfortunately doesn’t lead to new blooms, but if you aren’t using the seeds for propagation purposes, then it’s better to remove the spent flowers. (If you are using the seeds to propagate, wait until they dry on the stem before collecting.)
Cut the flower stalk to its base and leave the foliage on the plant. By removing the seed head of the plant, energy will be conserved and directed toward next year’s display. You should then wait about six weeks to cut the remaining leaves and dead foliage. During this time, make sure you keep watering and feeding the bulbs with a general-purpose fertilizer.
Crocuses will naturalize without deadheading.
Petunias, Pansies and Impatiens
If you’ve bought or planted up pots, window boxes or hanging baskets with annual plants such as petunias (the red flowers in the photo) or pansies, it’s important to deadhead to keep the flowers from going to seed once they have wilted or started to drop. Doing this will reward you with a succession of new blooms for the rest of the season. Petunia flowers can be quite sticky to the touch but are easily removed by gently pinching off the flower with your fingers. It’s easy to remove just the petals, so make sure to take the small pointed seedpod in the center of the petals.
In the middle of the blooming season, you can actually chop back the whole plant to 4 to 5 inches. This seems drastic, but even if you lose some new flowers, you’ll gain a bushier, healthier plant with more flowers that will bloom for many weeks to come.
Newer “self-cleaning” varieties of petunias and some kinds of impatiens, also popular hanging basket or window box plants, require minimal deadheading.
If you’ve bought or planted up pots, window boxes or hanging baskets with annual plants such as petunias (the red flowers in the photo) or pansies, it’s important to deadhead to keep the flowers from going to seed once they have wilted or started to drop. Doing this will reward you with a succession of new blooms for the rest of the season. Petunia flowers can be quite sticky to the touch but are easily removed by gently pinching off the flower with your fingers. It’s easy to remove just the petals, so make sure to take the small pointed seedpod in the center of the petals.
In the middle of the blooming season, you can actually chop back the whole plant to 4 to 5 inches. This seems drastic, but even if you lose some new flowers, you’ll gain a bushier, healthier plant with more flowers that will bloom for many weeks to come.
Newer “self-cleaning” varieties of petunias and some kinds of impatiens, also popular hanging basket or window box plants, require minimal deadheading.
Daylilies
Daylilies bloom only one day, hence the name, but they produce lovely trumpetlike flowers and are a wonderful addition to the late-summer border. Once a lily flower has been pollinated, it will start to shrivel and form a seedpod. The best way to remove the head of a lily is to simply snap or prune it off, making sure not to knock off any flower buds that are about to open.
This is also a good time to remove any soggy-looking or diseased leaves and stems, which are quite common on these plants. Deadheading also helps prevent gall midge, which can form in the buds. If you suspect that this has happened to your lilies, remove and destroy the infected buds.
Daylilies bloom only one day, hence the name, but they produce lovely trumpetlike flowers and are a wonderful addition to the late-summer border. Once a lily flower has been pollinated, it will start to shrivel and form a seedpod. The best way to remove the head of a lily is to simply snap or prune it off, making sure not to knock off any flower buds that are about to open.
This is also a good time to remove any soggy-looking or diseased leaves and stems, which are quite common on these plants. Deadheading also helps prevent gall midge, which can form in the buds. If you suspect that this has happened to your lilies, remove and destroy the infected buds.
Dahlias
Dahlias have really come back into fashion again, especially as a cut flower. To deadhead, cut the blossom after it has faded by following the flower stem back to where it meets the main stem. You will be blessed with a continuous display of vibrant blooms well into autumn or until the first frost.
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Dahlias have really come back into fashion again, especially as a cut flower. To deadhead, cut the blossom after it has faded by following the flower stem back to where it meets the main stem. You will be blessed with a continuous display of vibrant blooms well into autumn or until the first frost.
More on Houzz
Read more gardening guides
Discover more landscape inspiration
Find a landscape designer in your area
Shop for gardening tools
Shop for Gardening Tools
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When the flowers on roses start to wilt or fade, it’s best to deadhead since the petals can damage the leaves. Unlike pruning, which is done when the plants are dormant, deadheading can be done anytime.
Hybrid tea rose. For tea roses, which bear one flower on a stem, cut back the flower stems to a five-leaflet leaf, retaining at least two five-leaflet leaves on each stem. Make an angled cut just above an outward-facing shoot that is pointing in the direction you wish the rose to grow.
Floribunda rose. For floribunda roses, which bear clusters of flowers on a stem, you can cut off the faded flowers from behind the head and then trim the stem to about 6 inches. Repeat-flowering roses do best when you cut back the entire cluster to 6 to 9 inches, as this will ensure a more vigorous second bloom.