@RoyHobbs we will have to agree to disagree. I have been designing kitchens for years and have many contractors I work with. They bring me the dimensions and appliance specs, I work up the plans they review with their clients and then purchase the cabinets. They are responsible for all dimensions and fit. However, if I am supplied the specs of the appliances and do not make sure they fit properly, the contractor will come after me for the mistake and the fix.

Homeowners are not designers. They do not have a thought on ref sizes and walkways etc - nor should they. They is why they work with professionals.

The fact that the appliances specs were supplied BEFORE ordering cabinets, absolutely makes this fall into the lap of whoever ordered the cabinets - the one thing we do not know is if there was any conversation about how much the ref sticks out. If there was and the customer went ahead with purchasing the deeper ref, then it does fall on them - I don't think that is the case here .

Many of my clients are purchasing the full depth ref these days. I don't design with counterdepth anymore unless of course I am given that spec.

Interesting discussion.

Years ago I would have said full depth all the way, need the extra space.

Having to bend over to scower the far reaches of a full depth refrigerator at this time of my life is not easy.

My next refrigerator purchase will be counter-depth.

I supplied the specs for my appliances before cabinets were ordered and they fit. Even my standard depth fridge. If they did not fit, I would expect appropriate alterations to be made and NOT at my expense.

KM, it's actually a pretty common mistake. See if your GC can frame out a hole behind the fridge to get you a few more inches.

And KM may not be able to monitor this thread minute-by-minute. That doesn't mean they've abandoned it!

I have a full depth refrigerator and I wasn't willing to give up the space to go to a counter depth one. I had a recess built for it by reframing the back wall to accomodate the extra depth. On the opposite side of that wall, I had my contractor construct shallow built ins the entire wall. It looks good, works great and make it especially easy to clean the back of the refridgerator. The full depth refirgerator juts into the other room but is hidden in the built in.

moosemac- that's clever!

Was the homeowner never given a layout to approve? I can't imagine telling a contractor to order me a kitchen without seeing a plan. If the homeowner said the addition can only be this size, and the island has to be this size, and this fridge has to go in it, then they have determined the outcome.

As noted, the only solution is a counterdepth fridge, which could likely cost more.

We completed our house four years ago and also had a recess built to accomodate a full size refrigerator. It was simple since the refrigerator wall backs into the garage space so there is only a slight intrusion into the garage that is not noticable as we had garage cabinets installed that hide the bump-out.

Now, four years later we need to replace the full size Kitchenaid Side-by-Side (yes, it only last four short years!) and the selection of full size refrigerators is pretty sparse with the exception of GE, Whirlpool, LG and Samsung and I am not interested in those brands. We also found that my wife has a hard time reaching the back of the upper shelves as she is only 5' tall so it pretty much goes to waste except for my limited needs. In the end, the OP may be better off going with a Counter Depth unit.

Not everyone is willing to make the loss of interior space tradeoff to get a shallow counter-depth fridge. And, not everyone has a garage or basement or other place for a second fridge. Also, some fridges like mine--Café French door model--have a door that is 4.5" thick. there is no way that this is ever going to be absolutely flush with cabinets since the fridge needs to be placed so that the gasket aligns with the cabinet frame.

So, it's not just about aesthetics; function is also the issue. It sounds as though in this kitchen function will be impaired, and that changes the equation.

“And KM may not be able to monitor this thread minute-by-minute. That doesn't mean they've abandoned it!”

@Fori - looks like whoever said that about the OP must have deleted it.

I think the fridge problem here is about an inexperienced person who did not realize that fridges come in different depths. The contractor should have said something, and for all we know he did, but the OP may not have understood, or it flew over her head in the midst of all the other kitchen decisions. I get a sense from the tone of the OP that there was no experienced KD present. If there were, the OP would have asked the KD about why the fridge sticks out.

The solution is to exchange the fridge for a counterdepth model, and enjoy her new kitchen. There will be an upcharge to go to a counterdepth model (they are more expensive than standard depth models), plus delivery, and perhaps a restocking fee. It still won’t be the cost of an entire fridge. Since the OP chose and purchased the fridge, she’ll need to pay the difference for the counterdepth model.

Hi All, thanks for the advice/reply. I have read all your comments and appreciate it. So to summarize, our contractor did have their own designer and just told us to give them the specs of all the appliances that we have/purchasing so they can input it on the design...which we did. So our expectations are everything is going well, picking up the materials, etc and now building it in to find out that it doesnt fit the appliances that we gave them.

“told us to give them the specs of all the appliances that we have/purchasing”

So was the fridge one you already had, or did you purchase it? I find it hard to inagine that there was no layout plan drawn up, and no discussion of how your appliances will fit with the cabinetry. You must have signed off on something.

Also, they never told us to get a countertop depth fridge, they just told us to give them the specs. This is actually the first time i heard about the countertop depth fridge...

We purchased the new fridge after the 3d design was made. We already gave them the specs  and they didnt say anything if its too big or if theres gonna be an issue. If we've known, we could have exchanged it

We even gave the specs too to the cabinet makers before everything was ordered, so i dont know why this happened

Is the fridge returnable or exchangeable?

I was not willing to sacrifice space to get a cabinet depth, so I had my cabinet guys build the cabinets so that they fit the depth of my fridge.

Check of they can recess the wall behind the fridge

Fridge is not retrunable anymore ὡ5 coz there was some delays too

I had a similar panic when I was measuring the box for the new fridge.

I had a similar panic when I was measuring the box for the new fridge. We've had counter depth in a previous house, but I'm not interested in paying more, especially in this market a lot more, for a counter depth versus a standard.

We've had counter depth in a previous house, but I'm not interested in paying more, especially in this market a lot more, for a counter depth versus a standard.We've had counter depth in a previous house, but I'm not interested in paying more, especially in this market a lot more, for a counter depth versus a standard.

Here's our standard (we're still moving in = random trash bag). It looks hulking at a 26 cu ft. The way the box is built if we bought a smaller one, there would be wasted space on either side.

This is our counter depth, 2013. A standard would not have worked in this house because it's directly across from a dishwasher and the walkway wasn't wide enough.

If the aisles are the recommended 48”, then the additional depth of a full size fridge will create a pinch pont, but it won’t be as critical as if someone didn’t design to minimum accepted standard for a multi user kitchen.

Surely there was interaction between the OP and the contractor’s *cabinet seller*? (NOT a kitchen designer, and not working for the OP. A retailer working for the *contractor*.) No one hands over tens of thousands in funds for cabinets and isn’t involved at all in determining the results that they have to live with.

This is why hiring an independent kitchen designer instead of a cabinet selling retailer is so important. Having someone who answers to you, and who is impartial about the things recommended, regardless of how much they are getting paid, is the only way to not end up with a hot mess with higher commissions for the retailer. Who isn’t answerable to you.

Do you have documentation of your conversations/communications regarding the kitchen plans and the contractor's (and his KD) responsibility for planning? Do you have any documentation that you were given a detailed plan that includes layout measurements and signed off on it?

You say there won't be adequate space to open the fridge in front of the island. Exactly how much space is there between the front of the fridge and the island? What is the width of that aisle?

Do you have a floor plan you can post? Fair warning - even though your are installing the cabinets, there will be comments about changing things! ( I don't understand why people do that - it really isn't helpful ) . Maybe we can come up with a suggestion to help you out

"there will be comments about changing things! ( I don't understand why people do that - it really isn't helpful"

Because it will be educational for all the Houzzers that read these threads, that's why.

Threads on Houzz are not simply about free advice to one person.

I don't know your plan, nor if there is room to turn an island etc...so, just offering what we did as an option if you can rework some of the cabinets, or are they installed by now? I have a standard depth fridge which was not pushed into a room behind it. In stead, I pulled the regular depth lower cabinets out and had an extra deep countertop made for that side of the kitchen (range is on a different side, that would have been the only thing to complicate extra deep counters). The fridge looks like counter depth, and the deep counter gives me so much more prep space. The only drawer that I had made extra deep was the one for silverware so I can fit 2 trays back to back...others are just regular size. Is this an option for you...I don't know, you haven't posted photos, plans or what exactly has been done at this point. I hope something works out. Having to buy a more shallow fridge is an easier fix than modifying everything else...can you use the standard size one somewhere else an as extra?

What exactly is the issue when the refrigerator door is open?

Can you physically open the door without it hitting the island or is the issue that no one can pass by if the refrigerator door is open.

If you can open the door, then I personally don't see it as a huge issue. I have always had urban galley kitchens in which one needs to shut the refrigerator door; the oven door or the dishwasher door in order to walk by. One adjusts even if not ideal and it is still a functional space.

If you literally can't open the refrigerator door without it hitting the island that is a completely different issue.

When I remodeled my current kitchen it would have been physically impossible to do a kitchen in which the various doors when open would not block movement. 🤷🏼‍♀️ Without doing any kind of brag - humble or otherwise - there is no problem in selling any units for close to $1 million - and we are not in San Francisco or Manhattan FWIW. 😂

Many people don't have huge spaces and still manage to design and function in spaces that have quirks - like needing to close doors at times. My oven and my dishwasher used to be across from each other and one of them had to be closed - and either of them down would block passage. My wall oven is currently across from the refrigerator - if I am standing in front of either, passage would be difficult and no one would open the refrigerator door with the oven open or vice versa 🤷🏼‍♀️ It is what it is.

I think the issue is that the contractor did not plan adequately to accommodate the size of the refrigerator, and I don't think "making do" is really a solution when the OP paid good hard cash for a better outcome. So, OP, what do the contractor and/or the cabinet person say? What are their suggestions, if any?

KM:

What room is behind the refrigerator please? A framer and electrician may be able to work an acceptable solution in half a day with minimal materials.

@loobab - an overreaction. @Helen is a longtime member of this forum, and respected. What you wrote is disproportionately aggressive compared to the the comments that incensed you. Perhaps get off this forum for a bit till you feel more settled.

Edited to add: it looks like @loobab's post that I was referring to has been deleted.

@K.M, I am unclear, will the refrigerator door actually hit the island when opening it so it will not open all the way?

Hi All, appreciate all the comments. So just to clarify, to those who ask...so there's no recess wall at the back of the fridge, so that cannot do. 

The door of the fridge wont hit the island but we will need to stand from the side to open the fridge door...problem is we wont be able to reach inside unless we crawl over the space under neeath or just open one side of of the door...i think you get the picture.

The only option is to either make the island smaller or change the fridge...which we are willing to negotiate with the contractor...

Was a floor plan ever posted or have I missed it? "problem is we wont be able to reach inside unless we crawl over the space under neeath or just open one side of of the door...i think you get the picture." --- I am not getting the picture? What is underneath a frig door to crawl over... I am legitimately asking as this situation is very puzzling to me! When I open the frig door, there's nothing to crawl over. I am sure I am missing something, for which I apologize, and if you posted the floorplan sorry I missed it :(

What is a "recess wall" please? Again, what room is behind the refrigerator?

Post a floor plan to get more ideas.

This may not be relevant, but in our previous home our powder room was quite narrow and the sink was too deep for the space. Our builder got some precious inches by fitting it between the studs.  It's possible Joseph is thinking about reframing the wall behind the fridge to get a bit of extra depth for the fridge (I'm sure he'll correct me if I got that wrong ;)

Why won't the OP post the plan and photos??

Only the shadow knows. However, as the door doesn't hit the island per the OP's last post, and absent a floorplan stating what clearance there must be beyond the door to the island, I personally don't understand why the contractor should have to pay for it. Unless s/he promised OP X number of inches of clearance beyond the door to the island I am not sure how they could be at fault?

I'm confused. Are you saying that the space between the front of the fridge and the island is really tight (like 30" or less)? Out of curiosity, I just measured 36" (I do have more than this) from the front of my french door fridge. With 36" I am able to stand in front of it, open both doors, and reach in with that amount of space. No one would be able to get past me while I was standing there because I block the passage, but it does work.

Is your concern mainly that the passage will be blocked when someone has the fridge open?

least costly option is to work something out to change the fridge

@lucky998877 - the OP may not have received a floor plan. Early in this thread she was asked what she signed off on, what the layout showed regarding the fridge location and measurements, and she did not respond. The OP has chosen to pick just a few questions here to respond to. Given that, I reiterate what I said upthread that the contractor may have said something about needing a counterdepth fridge, but the OP may not have listened, or blocked it out among the other kitchen decisions.

@User - yes, that advice has been given a number of times on this thread, as the most straightforward option, but the OP does not want to.

juliest, the problem might be that if the fridge sticks out 10" and the door is 36" that would require 46" clearance. Or 32" and 10" is 42". If the aisle is 36" then that's the problem....

But then even 27", sticking out 3" could be a problem if the door is 36" wide because 3+36 = 39 in a 36" aisle.

As I think many people have posted, many people can not open their refrigerator door while standing directly in front of it because when it is open there is not sufficient room to walk behind it.

This is a very common configuration in galley kitchens and most people adjust without any issues.

If the refrigerator has one door you stand to the side with the handle and so have acces to the contents. Presumably there is a counter to place things to load or unload. Since your counter is close behind that is a perfect landing spot. My last refrigerator had a single door (but not 36") and it blocked the aisle when open and I definitely would not be able to access it if I was standing on the other side when the door was open.

If you have a French door refrigerator as I do, you do tend to open one door very often. I actually load frequently accessed items in the door that opens first - the doors have to be closed in sequence anyway as the left door has to close first since the right door closes over it. I learned that when I just closed both at the same time and refrigerator beeped madly to let me know it wasn't closed. So in real life I stand in front of the refrigerator and open one door and then the other door if it is necessary.

While this might not have been what you ideally designed, there are configurations that are far more dysfunctional than this one.

Mine is the same and unfortunately I have a small kitchen, so it takes up space. I will just live with it until I can get a new refrigerator. This one I got cheap, so I'm not going to let it get to me. If you have a roomy kitchen, don't worry about it. It's nothing that anyone would point out unless they notice every little thing.

Most all refrigerators stick out to one degree or another. Unless the open door does not have clearance to open fully, or the walkway with the door closed is too narrow, I would always go with the larger and cheaper standard depth refrigerator. Even if it sticks out 10 inches.

We are remodeling our kitchen. The company we hired came with a kitchen designer. He had all specs of appliances before he planned our kitchen. We have cabinets surrounding our fridge. We looked at design and it show’s refrigerator sticking out a bit, but inches are not mentioned. My husband vocally told him that we don’t want it to stick out that far (as in photo) and he reassured us verbally that “it won’t stick out that far, we shouldn’t worry, it will be fine”. After the cabinets were installed, we realize our fridge will stick out h81/4”. We voiced our concerns to our PM, who told us to just wait and see how it looks after they put it in. Holding our breath! Over it!!!

"Wait and see how it looks" is the answer that a contractor gives when he knows it won't work but that by the time it's installed you'll be too tired to fight and make them fix it.

Get a tape measure, mock it up. Decide RIGHT NOW if you want to live with it sticking out or not, because I guarantee you it's going to stick out more than you wanted / mentioned.

UHG!!! Agreed. Thank u. I guess our intuition has been and is still telling us that we won’t like it. Always listen to your intuition!

The short and sweet answer is that if you do not want a refrigerator protruding, you need to spend the major money for a fully integrated built in. Even a "counter depth" is anything but actually counter depth. The doors must still protrude beyond the enclosure for it to operate. Even some built in refrigerators require extra depth cabinets in order to function.

Buy a new counter depth fridge, you can find it under $2000 that will be the easiest solution