Bud Dietrich, AIA rossihay - What does your architect have to say?

rossihay our soils engineer said we could use ether one.

Bud Dietrich, AIA debbieralton - Many manufacturers of ICF systems attest to the ability of reinforced concrete walls to withstand earthquake forces. While I've never designed any building for earthquake prone areas, my snse is that with the proper reinforcing and connections, an ICF constructed home would comply with the building codes for earthquake zones. Before proceeding with this or any other type of construction in these zones, do make sure you check this out with a qualified local architect and engineer.

Bud Dietrich, AIA John -

Sounds like the wall was never properly waterproofed from the start.

There are different types of waterproofing for ICF's. We have used a peel and stick membrane specifically engineered for the system used. After 8 years and counting there are no water issues in the lower level.

Sounds like this membrane was omitted on your client's project. That's surprising because the codes usually require waterproofing for below grade foundations.

Before undertaking a complete do over I'd excavate, make sure the insulation is okay and then apply a waterproofing membrane. I'd check with the ICF manufacturer to make sure that the membrane is compatible with the insulation. Rather than a peel and stick, you might want to look into a spray waterproofing as it'd fill gaps, etc.

Good luck!

MHS Design Studio I live in a house with an ICF foundation and love it. We enjoy a dry and comfortable basement all year round. One of the best factors people overlook is the flexible Dew-Point that ICF's have. As the seasons change from summer to winter, the Dew point moves in natural progression from heated to none heated surfaces. This is one secret why ICF are so efficient.
Michael H Schuilenberg
Designer/Builder

kal73 TJMaxx, Marshall's, Homegoods

Bud Dietrich, AIA Try Pottery Barn, Restoration Hardware and flea markets as well

Bud Dietrich, AIA shelleyhmln - No, you're not alone. How I remember my brother and I making sure we stepped in the "quiet" spots as we sneaked out of the house.

bubblyjock Bud - thought you'd be amused: your articles on architectural terms are coming in VERY handy, making it much easier for me to discuss our current demolition-to-be-construction project with the contractor. He was scrambling for a word yesterday, and I said "purlins" - and got it right first time! Thanks for the great feature....and keep 'em coming. :)

Bud Dietrich, AIA Thanks bubblyjock - Will do

Sergo Cusiani All 5 types of roofing have their destination depending on function the building serve. Though, if function is not set up by attic, trusses are the best solution from both functional (technical) and aesthetic point of views. And it is very pleasant to view examples of excellent drafting skills.

heinz9 Stick framed roofs definitely have the advantage of more usable attic storage area over truss roofs. Truss roofs are engineered, typically built off-site and delivered. They can span longer distances with little support from underneath other than the exterior walls. The longer the truss span the more susceptibility to movement due to expansion and contraction caused by changes in exterior temperatures. This usually equates to nail pops in ceiling drywall and possible cracks were bottom cords are attached to interior walls. Depending on the time of year the nail pops become more noticeable and the cracks can get wider or reseed. Being engineered, a roof truss system should not be modified or over loaded with additional weight because it changes originally intended design loads. Stick framing tends to be less susceptible to seasonal changes, has easier accessibly to the attic area due to fewer framing members and can readily hold more storage items depending on supporting walls underneath. Each roof system has its pros and cons. For example, I typically prefer a truss system for garage roof because of openness below.

Bud Dietrich, AIA yes, SU pro 8

Bud Dietrich, AIA The cabinet maker supplied the pegs and pegboard that goes into the drawer bottom. So check with a local cabinet maker to see what they can do for you.

Bud Dietrich, AIA heinz9 - Looking to see if there is a support below a wall is a great way to determine if a wall is load bearing. And while a structural engineer can certainly help you figure which walls are load bearing, an architect can as well.

chmir & Denise Vilim - Thanks for starting the discussion about how to tell if a wall is load bearing. I think that sounds like a piece to pull together. For now, try to visualize a load path from above the house to the roof, walls and down into the ground. That's why heinz9 is right when suggesting that you look below to see which walls carry the load to the ground. Following that load path will be a big help in determining which walls are load bearing as opposed to those that are merely defining a room's space.

Brian Fryzel - I wondered if anyone would notice but I should have known that Houzzers are a pretty sophisticated and informed lot and of course would notice. I just thought the drawing is graphically better the way it's done. Sometimes we make sacrifices and, here's the architect in me, the better drawing always wins out. :-)

And to all, optimized framing isn't about saving initial costs but rather about building better and more sustainably. In the long run, we'll all be better off doing that.

lyvia I have also seen staggered two by fours used to make a two by six wall. If you have 2x4 studs aligned as traditional, then take every other one and move it two inches towards the inside of the house, you get a thicker wall and more room for insulation. Maybe the sill plates need to be larger, though. What do you think of that?

joyful_lady My folks buitl a home in California (Sacramento) using 2 x 6 exterior wall studs in '71. Their power bills were always miniscule compared to my 2 x 4 (and 400 sq foot smaller) home. They built another in '91 with 2 x 6 studs and their bills ran far less than mine for a similar size home. Both homes were also significantly more insulated from street noises (lawn mowers, children laughing, etc.) We are using 2 x 6 in our new home. They are now in a house they bought pre-built and their energy bills are 3 - 4 x higher than they have ever been--and we now live in an area powered by Nuke that has low electricity rates.

Bud Dietrich, AIA Too much fun - a little Boogie Woogie Broadway in the burbs! Thanks for finding this, Becky.

ranabanana looks a lot better than FEMA trailers . . . hum why not do elec & plumbing too?

Studio NOO Design Love it...Mondrian style ! very cool and clever !

Bud Dietrich, AIA Push pins, the kind you can get at a sewing / crafts store are the best way to hang these kinds of pennants. I get the push pins with the little, round heads in an assortment of color so that I can match the pin color to the pennant color.

albertla Thank you so much!

Ken Doerr Well April was a very productive month in the hallway (I know it's been a year since I started but I work a 28/28 cycle overseas and not all of my off time belongs to me!). I finished the electrics for the lighting and power outlets and got all the paintwork done. Natural sisal carpet on order and skirts still to be fitted afterwards.

Window shutter on order too - so that will give the hall 4 lighting schemes in all. I also stumbled upon these LED 'skylights' that I am currenlty evaluating and will install in June. So the square reveals in the ceiling are still unfinished.

Lights on top of the radiator shelves and the faux candle bulbs each side of the loft door work through a Siemens remote socket control device. The LED skylights will work only during daylight hours on a PIR to give the illusion of natural light - the one thing not in abundance in the hall.

A couple of quick iPhone images on the progress to date.

Ken Doerr The ends of the apex in each of the two hall sections have mirrors fitted to reflect light and fool the eye in to thinking it is a much more open space. The cramped feeling that was there with the orginal ceiling has vanished.

Bud Dietrich, AIA Hi

I think that both doors in black would be nice. A white door with black screen door might be too "op art" if you get my drift.

By the way, this door is actually a really dark gray stain so it has some subtly to it. Try Simpson Doors and see if they have something you like.

I've also had wood screen doors made so that the finish really matches the wood door.

Good luck!

pholloway Thank you again. You always have good advice. And I really like your work!

Bud Dietrich, AIA Thanks pholloway -

Bud Dietrich, AIA In my book it sure does!

Stardust Modern Design The Classic Panton Chair in Red: http://www.stardust.com/pantonchairclassic.html

Bud Dietrich, AIA The tray is about 24" out from the walls on 3 sides and 36" out on the other. If memory serves, it is shallow, only about 8" with the lighting behind a wood valance. Hope this helps.

Bud Dietrich, AIA Really nice job, Luciana. Amazing what can be accomplished with a vision (and just a few $).

Luciana Bud and Rhoda, the renovation took a total of 14 months, especially because of some technical difficulties. The house is in a conservation area and, trust me, the Brits are so bloody strict when it comes to their rules, it's scary. You need all sorts of permits or permissions for almost everything to do with the exterior. Access to the back of the house is through a narrow lane; they couldn't bring heavy machinery or even a little excavator because after putting up scaffolding it would simply not fit. We wanted a second basement room and it had to be done manually - lots of guys with spades and wheelbarrows; it looked rather 18th century in execution. We took down and rebuilt the garden stone wall for the glass crane. Even delivering the metal beams for the extension was a challenge, as well as pouring the screed (cement) in the kitchen and basement (it had to be done through a 12 meter hose through the front door).

I am somehow ashamed and proud to say we didn't have an architect or a designer, we only had the contractor (an experienced builder who had lots of contacts). Ashamed, because I value the competency, skill and experience that comes with a professional; proud - because I know we've done a great job anyway. We took a great risk considering the price of the renovation (some 6 times an average annual salary in Britain). We actually wanted an architect when we started, it's just that from the few we've seen, we didn't seem to click and decided to go ahead without one. I would never do it again without an architect - if someone would ask me at what height I want the plugs in the guest bedroom once more, I would maim them! I think that out of all, there are only two things that I'm sure would've been better placed if we'd have had an architect (the main electrical switch and the underfloor heating access valves - both ended up in my office room). We were lucky that all the companies we approached had their own architect, engineer or designer and we made good use of them!

To conclude, I don't know how different the standards are in the US comparing to the UK; this was a complete house renovation project, subject to lots of restrictions and technical challenges; I'm sure they do it differently when they build a new neighbourhood (!?!). When I'd get a bit of free time, I'm going to do another before and after -of the main bathroom this time, with some construction photos too. Also see this ideabook:

Seating Innovations Incredible to see the stages of change. Your kitchen looks beautiful- enjoy!

Faith Seen in Forest Hills, Queens