what floor will go in ? the cider stain of your cabinets might be easier to match than you think

take a drawer front into Lowes and check into this. across from the existing and on a different wall means a close match might really work. Otherwise a painted color [green] or creamy white or black. what will you choose for the 9 feet of cabs?

here is a shade of green.......cabinet companies often have a shade. otherwise get self assemble RTA since its just 9 feet .... ".paint ready MDF " and choose your shade .... find a good cabinet painter to get what you want exactly..... note the glass doors...might be nice in your space for a feature. .

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Im confused are you adding cabinets and they're going to be mismatched from your current kitchen?

If thats what you are saying please pause and reconsider

Can we see the new flooring?

What are your issues with the current kitchen layout maybe people can advise better if they understand why

I would do a freestanding hutch or pantry cabinets depending on what you need. new cabinets are never going to match so i wouldn’t invest a lot in cabs/counter.

It doesn't look like a round table really fits in your kitchen. You might consider a longer, narrow table that could be used for additional workspace.

What will you do with the baseboard heater? I might consider just getting an island with open shelving and maybe drawers across the top just under the counter. And maybe open shelving above. And just put it against the wall. If you do plan on redoing the kitchen at a future date it is a piece of furniture that can be reused elsewhere.

I agree with everyone else - I would add a free standing pantry where the iron piece is and then add a ”island” worktop for along the wall if you need more prep space -

FWIW I think it’s easy to underestimate the visual impact of the cabs you’re planning

Maybe the 9 feet begins beyond the heat fixture and runs up to rhe far wall w the iron piece. ….since people want to know … i think if thats the case a straight run will not be too costly as you avoid turning the corner. this section will be a greater value than a cart on that small area which you would have done already if you wanted. calculate $350 minimum per foot approx for cabs then counter matterial and install costs unless diy…..for a coffee bar /storage drawers / serving area /and seems okay to me. you can get a much smaller bistro table and 2 or 3 chairs if you need seating and what you have ends up too large.

if you arent up on everything...the specs and storage capabilities in cabinets are quite versatile now..... since the dining room is the room beyond...

if this helps w entertaining etc....

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heres a good looking set up if you care to handle it in such a way...

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I always wonder why people leave the most expensive important room to the last. IMO spending money on this kitcehn as it is is a waste . Put a nice pantry cabinet where the bakers rack is and a nice long table where the table is now for a work bench. Then wait to save enough to do a full redo. BTW put the flooring in the garage for now until you redo the kitchen since it will be harder to match later and please make sure you have at least 10% more flooring than the measurements ask for. You need better lighting for sure so maybe start with the plan for the new kitchen and have the lighting installed now

Agree with adding pantry cabinet where metal baker's rack is. Take one of the cabinet doors off and take it to a cabinet place (someplace like a Cabinets to Go) and they will be able to help with a selection. If you use your current table to eat at, then I would replace with something rectangle shaped so it could be pushed against the wall when not in use and be used as additional work surface.

What about the table? Is it staying? If so, it will be a very cramped space. (I'm assuming you will be eliminating the seating since there's a DR nearby -- through the doorway.)

Cabinets...I assume you mean you are adding 12"D cabinets along the wall...but they will only give you counterspace that's only about 13.5"D -- not much workspace. Is that enough for you?

What height will they be? 36" off the finished floor is the "standard" height that includes: 4.5" toe-kick + 30" cabinet box + 1.5" thick counter. You will probably have to build a 4.5" toe-kick, get 30" high cabinets, and then install a counter on top of them.

If you use base cabinets instead, the toe-kick & cabinet box will both be included. Use 18"D base cabinets instead and at least have 19.5" of workspace depth -- still not great, but better than 13.5".

Next question...floor. you don't show the rest of your home, what is the flooring? Laminate? Wood? Something else? Are you replacing all the flooring in the home, so the Kitchen is automatically being included? Or, are you just replacing the floor in the Kitchen to match existing flooring elsewhere?

If you plan to replace the Kitchen floor but not the cabinets, be careful that you don't "trap" your DW or refrigerator. Flooring that is taller than what's under the cabinets can potentially trap built-in appliances b/c the floor in front of them is too high and they would have to be "lifted up" to be pulled out for cleaning/repair/replacement. (If the built-in appliance has leveling feet, it may be enough to lower the appliance and then lift it up onto the new flooring.)

You should also run the new flooring under any "alcoves", such as the refrigerator, range, and DW alcoves -- places where the flooring might be seen by someone stepping back and looking under the appliance.

Do you plan to remodel the Kitchen in the next few years?

If so and if you're just replacing Kitchen flooring I would not do that now. Instead, I would wait until you can re-do it all at once (and flooring will be under the cabinets, etc.)

For now, I would get standalone/freestanding pantry cabinets for along the wall across from the refrigerator & sink and get a movable island for additional workspace when you need it. Store it where the baker's rack is now when not in use and pull it out when needed. Get one with locking wheels to make it easier to move around & then lock them in place once it's where you want it. (You can install wheels after the fact, if need be.)

If you do not plan to ever remodel, I'd actually recommend the portable island anyway since you don't have room for a permanent island. The flooring & pantry cabinets are another matter...you could do that now, except I would probably stack uppers to the ceiling (or get 12" to 15"D tall cabinets) for more storage space.

How wide is it b/w the wall and the refrigerator door? (If there's at least 6', I might change my recommendation.)

BTW...the overall layout of your Kitchen is pretty good, you could use more counterspace where it's needed most -- next to the sink on the range side (non-DW side) -- but it looks like you have at least 3' to the left of the range and 27" to the right of the sink.

If you're not able to redo the whole kitchen at the moment, the best thing to do is going to be getting a hutch, or buffet, and placing it where the small table is. Then down the road, if you have enough time and money, you could look into replacing all of the cabs, countertops, and flooring. You might consider looking at kitchen designs on here and adding them to an ideabook so that eventually, when you're able, you'll be able to do a full remodel if you really need more cabinets.

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As others have said, a freestanding furniture pantry is the way to go. you do not want to end up with this vibe…