One of the problems with peaches is you have to spray for brown rot, if you're not willing to, you may not always get a crop, or only partial crops.
The disease will not just go away. If you had it, expect it again. Spray and you can control it.

We inherited a peach, and just encountered brown rot. I did rescue enough peaches for a fresh peach pie, but next year we will spray! Definitely. So much to learn when you purchase property with existing trees and no clue how to manage them.

Suzi

Brookw, brown rot also infects the shoot tips. So I am sure you still have a decent level in your orchard. I expect you will start off with less than past years, but if you have some good circumstances for growth you could get a bad bloom of it this coming year. Brown rot is something not to get behind on with control.

Scott

I have always sprayed but primarily with Immunox, which I discovered isn't effective on brown rot. I have Monterey Fungi Fighter for the brown rot, which is applied much later in the season. I assume I need to spray it regularly then regardless of having no crop. I've been fortunate not to have had it till last year but have heard it's nasty.

MFF seems about the best approach for the home owner. Other fungicides can help too. But yeah all you said is right.
I have no crop this year due to cold, all sprays are staying though! Not letting anything get a foot hold.I currently am using three fungicides. For early season I use chlorothalonil (Fung-Onil - Monterey makes a version too, this is Bonide). for peach leaf curl, but also attacks brown rot. Captan for scab, shothole, and brown rot. Then MFF. So three different fungicides for different reasons but all help for brown rot. Although they are not effective on all stages of brown rot, but that is just a bonus. PLC, scab, and shothole are really what I use the first two listed. I really need the Captan for botrytis rot on strawberries, and so while out, use it on peaches. I have not had a problem with scab, so is just preventative.