Urine is a quick nitrogen fix for your plants and meets all your criteria. ;)

You can get your soil tested. (Do you have an agricultural extension office nearby?). Once you know what the soil lacks, then you can compensate. Paul

If you need nitrogen quickly, apply blood meal and water in well. It works very quickly!

Ron
The Garden Guy
http://www/TheGardenGuy.org
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As Ron says, bloodmeal. If you can't get straight bloodmeal, look for an organic Espoma all-purpose NPK fertilizer. I forget what it's called -- maybe earthtone? Anyway, it contains lots of bloodmeal. You can also try the liquid fish emulsions.

I just reread your original posting and realized you've already tried these things. Something else is wrong then as they should definately work. Get your soil tested. Also, good soil is improved over time -- it's not a one shot add amendments and fertilizer deal. I suggest several yards of compost laid down this fall.

Where do you live and what are you trying to grow?

Can we assume you used the Espoma at a rate of 10-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet?

Are you using mulch around plants?

Search out molasses for organic gardening.

You may want to add some dry molasses to your soil, or mix at a rate of one Tbls. per gallon of water and add some of the fish emulsion as well and water the soil with that.

here's an excerpt - link at end to full article:
(please do post what works for you)
Maddie

'Why Molasses?

The reason nutrient manufacturerÂs have 'discovered' molasses is the simple fact that itÂs a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of BENEFICIAL MICROORGANISMS. 'Carbohydrate' is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving 'micro-herd' to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - 'Feed the soil not the plant.'

Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there would be lotÂs of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though, the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is itÂs trace minerals.

In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants, and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those 'beneficial beasties' to survive and thrive. ThatÂs one of the secrets weÂve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants. This is especially important for the soil 'micro-herd' of critters who depend on tiny amounts of those trace minerals as catalysts to make the enzymes that create biochemical transformations. That last sentence was our fancy way of saying - itÂs actually the critters in 'live soil' that break down organic fertilizers and 'feed' it to our plants.'

From:
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/general-cultivation-information/76723-sweet-organic-goodness-magical-molasses.html

For those who don't know what the 420 in the link above means, it's a pot growing site. Probably not safe for visiting while at work ;)

I live in west Tennessee, I'm mulching with newspaper covered with straw from my duck house (so the straw has lots of duck poo in it). To get my soil tested would take several weeks, which is too long to help me right now, but I'll go ahead and do it for next year. I used the Espoma at the rate recommended on the back, which I can't remember right now, but I didn't measure by weight - the back of the bag said 3 cups was about equal to one pound, so I measured in cups.

I know it takes a while to get good soil, but I need my garden to grow this year, lol. I've added compost, composted manure, peat moss and God knows how many shredded leaves from the 25 mature trees in my front yard. Part of the problem is that 10 years ago this yard was all forested, but they cut down and hauled off every last tree from the back, leaving nothing worthwhile in the soil, which is clay that's hard as a rock and which somehow manages to stay soaked for days after it rains, even though our house is up on a hill. I've double dug several of the beds, tilled the rest and added enough amendments to raise all the beds a little bit (there are thirteen 3x16 beds). I've also used products with mycorrhizae.

I guess I'll go for the pee and blood now. lol I had forgotten all about molasses, which I did used to use in my garden at my last house. I looked for the gallon jugs of it in the garden centers here last year, but no one sold it. It's kind of expensive using the stuff from the grocery store. They sold it at a garden center where I used to live, which was obviously much cheaper.

You added a lot of amendments. You might try alfalfa meal cheap source of nitrogen, especially when you get it from the farm supply.

You might add the straw to the compost rather than the garden if there is lots of duck poo, could be burning your plants. I would check the pH of the soil - and perhaps check your watering schedule. I'd probably use bone meal rather than blood meal - more broad spectrum.

Do the soil test asap. None of the leaves were oak, I hope? Any walnut trees nearby? The pH can bind up your soil nutrients so that the plants can't take them up. Or it could be a pesky micro-nutrient problem.

What you need is a good, reliable soil test to see what is going on. Your soil pH can cause what appears nutrient deficiencies, and what appears to be a Nitrogen deficiency can also be a Potassium, Magnesium, Zinc, Iron, Sulfur, Boron, Copper, or maybe Molybdenum deficiency, depending on how those leaves are yellowing.
But then again you may need a supplemental "fertilzier" because the Soil Food Web in your soil is not yet functioning well enough to supply your plants with the needed nutrients because it is too soon after you added organic matter. A soil test will indicate that and these simple soil tests can also help,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Here is a link that might be useful: UT CES