yeh Sandy looking at the trade off of stripping leaves for mites. I have left them in smaller pots, since I do not want to fuss with this until the mite problem is gone, but I wonder what this is dong to the plants: causing more branching, setting them back, Am I causing dwarfism?

=====Rootbound or Compacted Roots Do Cause Bonsai=======
Oxmyx, I'm so glad you asked that, I had to check another article out to have that cleared up.
http://www.mellobonsai.com/care/Bonsai_Care_Repotting.aspx

Yes, It is also a part of the bonsai'ing process. In the effort to balance upper plant growth with roots. It will cause stunting/dwarfism/bonsai'ing and you will get symptoms of it being 'too long rootbound' because of a lack of water and food deficiencies which will make the plant wilt and ill. It'll wilt very easily or constantly because there aren't enough roots to feed the growing plant the water into it's system to help it cool down (transpiration) and stay 'pumped up'. Also, other signs of deficiencies are, the leaves will start growing smaller and there will be shorter internodes between new branch buds - unfortunately this is what new growth on a normal growing plant looks like, but time will tell more, especially prolonged or easy wilting. Compacted roots will also give signs of chlorosis, yellowing leaves with green veins remaining.

Our winter here is (6 months Nov-Apr15-21 in pocket zone 6/5) I keep mine potted in 2 ltr carbonated pop bottles all winter, but maybe not this year as I won't be pinching my branches.
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They also could of had them in bigger pots and then removed them, flushed most of the dirt, kept at least one fat root and stuck the remaining smaller mass into the 3" smaller pots. Maybe hydro grown. Maybe they really kept them in the 3" pot and forced the available roots to get fat through the leaves and a great light system. \=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\=\= And my CG did way better with 2 nice flushes, than the overwintered bonsai'ed cuttings (no flowers on 2 and a few flowers on the Frosty, twice) of which I had 10 times more of a rootball that same spring, but none of my 3 cuttings developed a single thick root before spring such as was with the CG spring bought brug. My lighting is not so great so I'll probably be cutting off over\-winter growth come spring anyway, once the new spring shoots come out and prove to me that they will grow faster. I still need the branches and leaves from the over\-winter growth until the new branches have some good leaves on them anyway. And I'll have a much healthier and fatter stalk/stem to grow them from complete with a more thatn sufficient root system. Old school taught that most plants don't need repotting until it is at least 3 times bigger than the dirt ball is high. These days they have all sorts of signs to look for but I hardly think 1 or 2 roots curling around the bottom and coming out is a sign of a rootbound pot \- that's more like a sign to check. I'm sticking with old school but I'll stretch it to as much as 4x's but not much more because of how narrow my pots are. I'll look for symptoms. \- Sandy

Sandy, After giving this some thought, I think I will stop removing the leaves. I have had no mites/insects @ all (knock on wood), so I really have no reason to remove them. I think the plant knows what to do without intervention from "mother Edna" LOL

Bump so others will know what Barry is refering to.

Bonsai of a Brugmansia is a total waste of time!! We did it for four years and it was a constant nip tuck and if you think mites will help with this, they only spread to other plants. Once mites get a hold they are hard to rid and the sooner they are the gone the happier all your plants will become. Brugmansia in their natural form is the only way to grow these lovely ladies of the night, these are not suitable for a miniture.

Sorry Karman I don't think this was Sany's intent. I believe she is pointing out that we might be inadvertently causing dwarfism by some of our practices.