Hi Doc,

Sorry, I believe the name is Dorstenia gigas, but I have't grown one. The only one I grew (D. jerva cava) had a leafy top on its own.

Sorry Karen, just another one of my many typo/transpositions. As I age it doesn't get any better!

Chop it just above the soil line (or where you wish) around Father's Day and start the top after it calluses. Use a sharp tool (like a new utility knife blade) and paint over the fresh wound on the rooted part with waterproof wood glue as soon as it stops weeping.

Al

Thanks Al. Why glue? Could you apply just a fungicide to cover the cut end? Just want to understand.

No, no, don't chop it!

D. gigas can be sensitive and difficult to grow. I would not do anything to hinder a plant as small as yours. Your plant looks fine right now, and I would not expect significant girth yet. That will come with age.

I've never tried cuttings of this plant, but a book of mine says they can be difficult to root. I would not even consider taking cuttings until the plant is much bigger, and even then I would be very hesitant to remove the leader. It will significantly change the appearance of the plant, and I don't know if new leaders can be easily trained and integrated with the rest of the trunk.

-Chris

Thanks, Chris. Good advice. I have decided to let nature take its course and see what happens in a few years.

Hmmmm - I've never had a problem with this plant from cuttings. I've started many for friends in perlite or the gritty mix, and I really can't remember a failure ...... but always err on the side of caution if you've had any kind of poor luck with cuttings in the past.

I paint the fresh wounds of almost all plants in containers, but not those in the landscape, and especially those of succulents. If you don't, you can count on the wound drying out & shriveling, affecting the appearance and location of the new sprouts.

If I hadn't sealed the wound on this Aeonium, chopped just above the soil line,
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I wouldn't have been able to get the even distribution of new shoots to come from the cambium AT the wound site. The top of the plant (at the truncation) would have collapsed on itself due to dessication, and an ugly scar would have resulted - + the shoots would have originated much more randomly on the stem stub.

I understand & agree with the fact that sealing wounds on woody material in the landscape is useless at best, and counterproductive at worst, but small plants in containers close wounds much faster if you paint them with waterproof wood glue or wait just until they dry and smear petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or Preparation-H on the wound. There may be scoffers but let me say, please, that I've used this trick on so many plants and have seen the difference in so many wounds when I haven't used it, that I'm absolutely certain of its effectiveness.

Al

Al, thank you so very much for chiming in on this topic. BTW: I see you are located, possibly, down the street and around the corner from me.... LOL Might you share publicly or privately your location in mid-Michigan? Thanks again...

Howard

Al, you grow Dorstenia gigas?

The few others I've heard from don't seem to have a whole lot of luck. Slow to nonexistent growth and rot seem to be big problems. The few substantial plants I've seen always seem to be from the southwest due to the ample sun and heat. Could you share your care and experience with this species? Plants from the D. foetida/crispa complex reportedly grow like weeds, but unfortunately the more spectacular D. gigas seems to be much more difficult for most, especially those in more northern regions.

-Chris

Chris,

You nailed it - for me, it's another plant I don't want to end up in disappointment up here. It's much like Aloe pillansii, it's just not going to do well here without extraordinary measures. I go outside and plant a peony and feel better, a little.

I grew one for several years, but didn't see much potential in it for manipulation or for bonsai, so I gave it to Dow Gardens in Midland, MI - probably 10 years ago or so. I don't know if they still have it or not. Over winter, I grew it under fluorescent lights, lights almost touching, in the gritty mix with lots of extra granite. The plant was with some Conocarpus erectus bonsai on a propagation (heat) mat - fertilized & watered along with all my other trees on a 3-4 day rotation. It would go semi-dormant in the winter, but perk right up again in summer. I always sited it on a dark wood planter in front of light siding on the south side of the house. I don't remember any insect or disease issues with it while I had it, and it was very healthy when I gave it away. I never really thought about the possibility the plant might be difficult because I had no problems with it.

Al

Jeff, I know what you mean. I'm not quite ready to give up yet, but unless it makes a drastic turnaround, I'm pretty sure my current specimen will be the last I ever buy.

Thanks Al. I go back and forth between feeling hopeful and disappointed with this one. I'll try to give it as much sun as possible this summer. It seems to have survived the winter in a pumice, granite, and Turface mix, so maybe it will perk up soon.

-Chris