Check out >this thread about Nitron A35, which is a product similar to the one you've linked to, but more importantly, the thread I've linked you to tells you how to make your own home-made surfactant that'll do what you're trying to do for a mere fraction of the cost.

Good day, Dan

Aerify and Nitron are different products. One is a surfactant and one is an enzyme.

Here's what I do to soften my soil. First of all we should be talking about the same thing. What I'm talking about with soft soil is soil that acts like a sponge. It should be very soft when wet, but not soggy; and it should be very firm when dry - just like a sponge. I soften my soil by soaking it with a soaker hose on a s-l-o-w t-r-i-c-k-l-e. I stretch out the soaker hose at the high side of my lawn, turn the faucet on to a trickle, and let the hose run day and night for a week. Then I move it about 18 inches down hill and let it run a week. I continue moving it until I reach the bottom of the yard and then start all over at the top again. In the mean time if I have to use the hose to water the lawn, I interrupt the soaking to water. I repeat the soaking for three full cycles. By that time my lawn is the way I want it.

Why does this work? Here's my theory. In order to have soft soil you must have a full set of beneficial fungi. Why? Because fungi send out long strands (inches, feet, yards) into the soil. They work in the soil just like mold growing on a loaf of bread. If you'll recall, a loaf of bread under the right conditions will go from a few spots of mold to a fuzzy mass in a couple days following the original mold spots. The fuzz you see are the fungal strands (technically they are called one hypha or two hyphae). These long strands are looking for food and moisture. When they are moist, they swell up and push the soil particles apart. When they dry out the strands shrink allowing air into the soil. They also leave passages for water to enter the soil when the rains (or irrigation) come. So by watering at a slow rate and giving the soil a chance to dry out in between resoakings, it gives the fungi a chance to grow and then slip into overdrive growth. You'll know when the soil is right, at least I know, because the soil is so soft right after I've watered it that it feels like walking on the soft sand at the beach. Then a few day after I water, it is very firm again. I water and it soaks right in and softens it.

I don't know anything about the enzyme product, but I don't think a surfactant would help the process I have described. I like my method because it works and it creates bazillions (a technical term) of microscopic holes in the soil rather than a few hundred or even thousand plug holes.

core aeration is far more beneficial.

I'm hesitant to even post, because the last time I posted I was accused of being a shill.

But

If you're in the intermountain west, you may be able to find a product called revive, It has many of the same properties of Aerify and Nitron except chelation (but nobody from either site has answered my questions, so who knows?) I bought Revive for the simple reason that when I posted a question to their website, they replied. I posted questions to Nitron and Aerify as well. But that was over a year ago and I still haven't heard.

bpgreen:

I know it's early in the seaon, but how has the Revive worked out for you?

I can't honestly quantify the benefits from Revive. I gradually moved to a more organic lawn care program, as well as to a deep, infrequent watering. I think the two complemented each other, but I have no way of telling which piece of my "program" produced which result, since I didn't set up test cases and instead did it all globally.

From my years of reading these and other Internet forums, I'm going to declare that the deep infrequent watering is good for about 60% of any benefit you see in a lawn. Mowing at the right height is good for another 30%, and fertilizer is only good for color (the last 10%). This is totally unscientific and based on declining memory.