I am not familiar with Delta-FL, but would not recommend Dricore. Dricore is made with particle board which if wet will expand and disintegrate.

Why are you having such problems with water from the utilities? Pump failure or drain blockage? You should solve the problem at its' source, then finish the basement. There are "overflow" pans available for both water heaters and washers to be set into but they only collect/contain the leakage, then drain into existing plumbing.

My water problems were a failed water heater of unknown age (replaced and age noted) and a laundry sink with a trashbag in it by accident. You can't stop mistakes like this (trashbag)...I was just trying to prevent damage from things that have happened in the past.
I just don't understand laundry sinks vs a standpipe. Maybe I'll work on that. Not have the washing machine drain hose hang over the edge of the laundry sink.
I'll post what I find out about Delta-FL. I hope it's less expensive as Dricore was $1.50 a sq foot.

Thanks for your input
Scott

Put pans under everything, and a water alarm in the pans. You can even get ones that will shut off the water supply if water is detected in a pan.

As perel suggested, a pan under the washing machine with an auto detect/auto shutoff water supply is about the best protection you can get for a potential washing machine leak. I believe the Watts valve/regulator company makes the setup I am thinking of.

The pan or curbing under the water heater should work.

Hold ther drywall 1 inch off the floor and cover the gap with wooden baseboard or plastic cove molding.
Drywall is not instantly destroyed by getting wet. If it is bumped or struck while wet it will be damaged, but the stuff is wetted down for bending all the time.
Carpeting in the home theater area is the most likely to be damaged thing from water. If you have a leak the carpet should be ermoved as quickly as possible and the water vacuumed up. After the pad dries the carpet can be replaced.

Drain pans are only effective for the smallest of leaks or trapping water to trip an alarm. There are any number of alarms available, but the cheap ones seem to fail when most needed. Do not get a battery unit. The batteries will be dead when needed.
Watts has a cut off valve for washing machines that will even sense a broken hose.
You can also simply seal the bottom plate of the wall to the floor to provide at least 1.5 inches of 'curb' and place a sweep under the door.
Is there a floor drain near the heater and washing machine?
The floor should be pitched to drain in that direction.

I have also tried the auto-shutoff supply hoses, but they don't work very well. Too many false trips. If I was really concerned about shutoff I'd use the automatic valves with a sensor + make sure it failed closed if power was lost. The metal pan should contain the water long enough for the alarm to trip and shut the supply down.. again, no personal experience with the alarms.

The use of a curb such as you describe is commonly done in commercial or multifamily structures where they have living units or offices on the same floor as the utility space. The area within the curb in the utility room should also have either a floor drain or a sump & sump pump to automatically discharge any water that may get on the floor.