I wouldn't put any wood over ceramic tile.
Tear out the tile and install 3/4" real wood. Anything else has a good chance of warping or separating in moist conditions You didn't say what room.

1st off...in order to give you good information...consumers must read all they can to educate themselves prior to asking for decisive help. Engineered wood is real wood. The question engineered or real...I believe is to be interpreted solid or engineered. Each is better under certain conditions, however; both are very real woods. i prefer engineered based on stability to climate concerns. In the northeast where I live....I prefer engineered. anything wider than 3 1/4 inch would force me to use engineered no matter where I live. I handle many claims of all flooring and solid woods demand precision with regards to installation, climate conditions, acclimation, etc etc. The above post is extremely inaccurate. Proof of such is that engineered is normally the only type that can be place on or below grade due to moisture issues. Engineered handles moisture mush better than any solid. Gapping, cupping, buckling, expansion, and many other wood issues are less common on well made engineered products.

Just done a recent remodel in kitchen which had a ceramic tile that I hated also. We ripped ours out and put engineered in. So glad we did. Could not be more pleased and I am picky! I think you may be able to put it over your tile, however there is always those little snags that alter your plans. Talk to a contractor or dealer. You have a choice of glueing or floating, depending on your layout and subfloor. We connected the dining room, had 2 different subfloors plus we had a staircase around(this was our snag). The dining side was particle subfloor(another snag), we had a choice new subfloor there or new stair case. we went with the stair case and floated the floor. I had Christmas Party and tons of traffic and people in the last months and had very little clean up

The tile would have to be removed to do a proper job. You didn't say what your sub floor is...whether it is wood or concrete. That would influence what material you would use for flooring. I would not put a wood product, engineered or real solid wood, over concrete.

We just built a log home and had a top notch craftsman install true heart pine that was milled locally and kiln dried. The subfloor is Advantec and we have 15 pound tar paper between the sub floor and the heart pine. This will prevent any outside moisture from getting underneath the wood...we have an old fashioned type of pier foundation since we wanted to build a home authentic to the original homes built in our area.

The floor is absolutely gorgeous. It is extremely tight, and no, we don't have any cupping. I do, however, know several people who have engineered wood, and factory finished hardwood floors. They have all had cupping problems seasonally.

We looked at flooring until we were pretty sick of it all. The quality of real wood cannot be outdone by any made made product, but it will involve more labor initially. We also purchased real tung oil, cut it 50/50 with citrus solvent, and have a beautiful,all natural, waterproof, and easy to repair finish.

It doesn't matter how much any manufacturer or salesperson tries to tell you engineered wood is "real" wood. If your interpretation of real wood is what you find with a board cut from a tree, it isn't. It contains real wood and that is why they can say that it is. It is also full of resins, and many of the engineered products have a very thin finished surface. Look at the engineered boards from the side. Pick up a scrap board from a sawmill (your choice of wood) and then take it with you to the stores and look at everything side by side. Your answer will come to you.

Finding someone who knows how to work with real wood and not something out of a box can be a challenge though. We searched for a few months and found someone from out of town. He is an expert with reclaimed wood floors, so we got lucky. Up until then I can't tell you how many flooring people wanted to glue my wood down. I sent them right on down the driveway.

We now have a gorgeous floor with no cupping, no squeaking, and tight as a drum. No matter what you go with, take your time and look for someone who knows what they are doing.

There is a great article you should read about this exact issue. I have attached the link.

Here is a link that might be useful: [Engineered wood article[(https://www.houzz.com/magazine/when-to-use-engineered-wood-floors-stsetivw-vs~574877)

Thank you so much for all your very good information. We have wood floors under the tile, not concrete. After looking at so many types of flooring, I went to the Armstrong store and found a vinyl that can be put directly over the tile and it looks unbelievably like wood but has a foam type backing that is so much softer under foot. I was impressed. I need something soft as I faint now and again and twice it's happened in the bathroom and really hurt myself on the tile. At least I'll have a better landing pad. I'm a senior and trying to avoid taking out the perfectly good tiles. This way, a new owner, will find a nice treat under the flooring I install now. You were all so kind to help me out. I know a lot more about flooring now.