I am getting Bruce laminate in about the same amount of square footage and in same rooms but kitchen. Most manufacturer's installation instructions recommend transitions when the room length exceeds 25-30 ft. Remember too, that if something has to be replaced, they have to back out much of the flooring to get to that piece. Transitions make the process easier.

My Bruce laminate comes with matching transitions. Doesn't your Mohawk show you matching accessories.

My installer recommended transitions where the bedrooms met the hallway. Only 2 of 3 really needed it, but for consistency we put it at the entrance of all 3. We are not putting it where the dining room or 1/2 bath meet the halls because it does not exceed the 25-30 ft.

There might be a distinct difference in how many transitions are necessary depending on which way the boards are laid. Luckily the way I wanted the boards to lay was the same way it worked out to have less transition pieces.

'matching' is a word not used often in flooring. Most Mfctrs outsource out trim and transitions so they are meant to blend but not 'match'. When I worked for Mohawk they suggested certain transition colors for each style. I imagine they still do.

Oh, that means a call then to Bruce cuz I'm pretty anal about the difference between "match" and "blend".

I have Bruce Makore and the transition pieces do not match. They do sorta blend, but I think they are ugly. They do not look as nice as the flooring itself. In fact, I dislike them so much that my DH is making wooden transition pieces.

I have oak hardwood flooring through out my home..all of ours is done continuously and no thresholds...you need to talk to different installers..don't chose those ones..they are wrong..and one person on here said that pine will expand but oak doesn't..ummm all wood contracts and expands with humidity..so if you have hardwood, you need to control the humidity in your home to maintain nice floors..too much humidity and there is a chance of warping/heaving, and the wider the board, the bigger the chance of warping too..but don't let that worry you..I love my floors.

Ciciliot

I called Bruce/Armstrong and they are VERY non-committal about it blending. They do make sure they say "coordinate". That got me worried. They did confirm that I do NOT need "T" moldings at all during my install. I hate those worst of all cuz it screams "This is a fake floor!" Anyway, I think I will need to order a piece of baby threshold first to see how it looks before I jump in and order 10 of them (that is what I need). If they are hideous, I might have to hire the installer to make them out of wood and then I will stain and varnish them to match. But I cannot see that being as durable as the ones that are made to "coordinate."

Anyone out there make their own, stain and varnish them , then use them for quite some time and how do they hold up?

It's common for me to stain/clear coat my own transition trims. That way they match and help keep my cost down. Where it really matters is when you have to join two or more pieces together. I can usually get them in lengths up to 12 foot long.

When I installed dark cork planks in our kitchen 2+ years ago, the supplier (Natural Cork) did not have matching or blending transitions. Nor did Lowes, HD or a couple of local flooring stores. I had a local mill shop make T molding and quarter round out of maple. I finished the moulding to match our "white washed" maple cabinets and put 3 or four coats of poly on them for protection. Looks great (per my parol officer) since it matches the cabs where it abuts them and blends with the adjacent tile.

Thanks, everyone. I am still undecided on what to do. Bruce/Armstrong does not accept returned transitions if we don't like the match or quality level. I looked at Versatrim but their finish looks really cheap.

Has anyone mixed wood transitions with laminate? I contacted on online molding company and they said wood transitions with laminate will look weird but the floor I picked out is so realistic I cannot imagine anyone will really notice.

Which floor are you buying?

My husband is making oak transition pieces for our home right now. He made one (for a spot where there was not an appropriate transition piece to purchase) and it looked so beautiful that I asked him to take up all the transition pieces that he'd installed in the doorways and make wooden ones.

Wow, ma, that is awesome! We are buying the Bruce Park Avenue Pradoo flooring. It is simply gorgeous. I have contacted a local woodworker to duplicate them in a corresponding wood (won't be Pradoo as it is a southeast Asian exotic wood). It's good to know that it blends well.

Did you get a custom stain to match and did you then use polyurethane as the sealer? Has that held up well?

I don't know what stain my DH used for the transition piece. He showed me a few stain samples and asked me to pick the one I liked.
Yes, it is sealed with polyurethane. We have only had it in place for a couple months, so I can't speak to longevity. However, poly is what is put on hardwood floors, so I think it will be just fine.

Well, the local woodworker won't return my phone calls. My guess is that he isn't interested in 11 transition pieces. There are higher gloss transitions now to match the Park Avenue line so we are just going with them. Our installer is also a woodworker so if things don't work out, we are going to hire him to make new ones...that would be unfortunate cuz these stupid things are costing us $500. They better look good! I'll keep you guys posted.

Where can I find transition pieces that are at least 7 ft 6 inches? We just had laminate put in our family room where we have a cornered fireplace that is over 7 ft. from point to point. They had to use 2 segments as the pieces only come in 6 ft. 6 in. lengths. Joint is noticeable and ruins an otherwise perfect job.