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canishel

What primer for laminate desk?

canishel
14 years ago

I'm searched out, so please forgive if you folks are tired of answering similar questions. This isn't my desk, so forgetting the whole idea is not an option.

I have a poor quality desk (laminated inexpensive mdf/mdf- equivalent). I don't know what the laminate is, it may be paper? It will be taken apart as much as I trust not messing up the connectors. I will patch with wood filler and sand the whole thing with steel wool. Not sure yet what paint i'll use, possibly Ace semi-gloss cabinet paint.

Searches for primer indicated mixed reports for BIN: some painters felt it was fine for everything, others felt it lifted the laminate off the substrate. Some recommended Kilz, which I've always had trouble with in terms of leveling.

So, which primer should I use? Since this is a desk, should it be topcoated with something like polyurethane? I don't like a semi-gloss finish, but maybe a satin finish topcoat would dull the sheen?

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Comments (7)

  • paintguy22
    14 years ago

    I don't know why BIN would create a problem with the laminate, but I don't see why an acrylic bonding primer like Zinnser 123 or C2 One wouldn't work. Also, you don't need to use steel wool. Just use a fine-medium grit sanding block. The steel wool can leave behind traces of steel that you can't see that will cause rust spots to appear in your paint film. The satin finish paint is fine on its own without the poly. Just use something of high quality.

  • canishel
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Paintguy,
    Thanks for the answer.
    I guess my concern with using a water-based primer is the possibility of messing up the mdf/particleboard. I assumed an oil-based primer would be less likely to swell the stuff.

    I mentioned steel wool because I wasn't thinking. I guess I didn't want to destroy the laminate, but who cares?

  • User
    14 years ago

    From my experience with laminate:

    I bought a small 3 shelf black laminate bookcase because it was the exact size I needed for an area. It was a Sauder product, well constructed.

    I roughed it up with some sandpaper and applied a coat of Kilz primer. This was a challenge because the paint kept beading up and allowing the black to show through. Let it dry 24 hours and applied another coat, more beading but better coverage. It took 4 coats of primer to finally cover all the black.

    After another 24 hours I applied the finish coat of a high gloss Benjamin Moore in a creamy white. Then another after about 6 hours. The surface now has an orange peel surface, which is fine.

    The paint and primer have peeled off in small sheets in some places, mostly where the books have been removed and replaced.

    I'll be repainting it once the warm weather arrives. Not sure where I went wrong.

  • canishel
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    dian57,
    Thank you so much for sharing your experience.
    How deeply did you sand? I wonder if one needs to sand the laminate until the particleboard shows through. That is, creating enough tiny breaks so that the primer can glue/fuse the residual laminate, now broken, edges with the particleboard spaces, thereby preventing bubbles or chipping. I know I'll have to use multiple coats of primer and sand between coats, just because I'm not very good.

    Perhaps paintguy or someone can address this peeling problem. Since my project is a desk, your observations about books addresses the same concerns I have about the desk surface.

    Maybe a related observation: I just finished priming drywall with an oil-based primer (BM superspec) and some of the primer dripped on the vinyl sheet flooring. The primer isn't readily soluble in acetone, GooGone Xtreme, or mineral spirits, yet it comes off if I scrape it with my fingernail. So the surface preparation is very important. Perhaps an epoxy-type first coat is necessary? The use of epoxy adds another variable and could make the adhesion worse so I really don't want to use it.

    Moral for me: don't try to make something out of nothing.

  • paintguy22
    14 years ago

    Was it Kilz 2 primer (the latex version) or the oil based version of Kilz? Kilz is really problem solving primer and if you use Kilz 2, that's just a bad primer for anything, including solving problems. What you need is a bonding primer. Also, there is no need to apply multiple coats of primer once you have actually covered the surface with the primer. Yes, some people don't apply a full coat, so then perhaps you would need another coat, but trying to get your primer to actually cover the original color is not necessary. The job of a primer is to bond and to seal. It's coverage ability is usually horrible. The topcoat will do a better job at covering.

  • canishel
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    So if I use Zinsser Bullseye 123 Plus, then I should be ok?
    Per the website
    "The perfect primer for all interior and exterior painting projects, Bulls Eye 1-2-3® PLUS combines the performance characteristics of an oil-base primer  dependable stain blocking, exceptional flow and leveling and deep penetration to seal the surface  with all the benefits of a water-base primer."

  • paintguy22
    14 years ago

    My first choice would be BIN, but if you are worried that will cause problems with the laminate lifting then my second choice would be Zinnser 123 or C2 One....C2 One is actually better, but not everyone can find it.