Cacti soil never works well for me. I just use plain old potting soil.

The photo appears to be the succulent, Jade. Jade is a wonderfully easy plant to grow, as long as you don't overwater it. I have 30+ year old Jades that I grow as indoor plants, as our winters are too cold to have them outdoors. Their trunks are 3"+ in diameter. Regular potting soil is fine to plant them in. Once you've cut a leaf or branch off the main Jade, let it "heal" a few days & then punch the ends directly into the soil of a small pot. Using your finger, or utensil, to push a hole into the soil, place the bottoms of your leaves into the potted soil so you don't have to transplant later. Several cuttings can be put into a pot. Keep them out of the sun while rooing. Keep the soil moist but not wet or they will rot. After a few weeks the roots will be secure & back off on the watering. Succelents like Jade, hold much moisture in their leaves so water sparingly. You'll know they need water if the leaves look a bit
shriveled . They are one of the easiest plants to grow. Here is a site I found for you that may be helpful. http://mrbrownthumb.blogspot.com/2012/12/jade-plant-leaf-cutting-propagation.html

I agree with all that karenpariser said & I too am a certified Master Gardener but in the northern climate. :>)

I'm in the south. Had a Christmas cactus that froze except for one leaf. I kept it in the same pot and everytime there were two or three leaves, I would break them off and stick them i the same (soil) pot. It's doing beautifully. Easy.

As mentioned in the other comments, Jade is very hardy if you don't over-water. Think of it as a non-prickly cactus. They don't need good soil or fertilizer and prefer dense shade. If the leaves turn light green and especially if you see pinkish red on the edges, it's getting too much sun. Move it into shade and it will turn the lovely dark green they're known for.

I have a long window box I call my nursery for propagating all my succulents and plants. It is on the floor in a bright but not direct sun spot........New England: Here they all live inside and I sell them at craft shows......they look adorable in fun yard sale finds!...a little moss a broken egg shell....

Love it. Are those Rex begonias you've matched them with??

I realize this is an old thread, but generally speaking, commercially prepared potting media are a poor choice for any plant that doesn't tolerate wet feet w/o protest, and Crassula falls in that category. Even those media labeled as being suitable for succulents and cacti very rarely are good choices, it's not what's ON the bag that determines a medium's suitability, it's what's IN it that counts. Generally speaking, commercially prepared media are too water-retentive even for plants that prefer an evenly moist medium. The reason lies in how much perched water these media support, which commonly ranges from 3-6". Perched water is water that takes up residence in a 100% saturated layer of soggy soil at the bottom of the pot, and refuses to be dislodged by the force of gravity. It sits there until it eventually evaporates of the plant uses it. The trouble with the later is, soil saturation very quickly kills the fine roots which do the plant's heavy lifting. When these roots die, the plant's chemical messengers tell plant central to halt all top growth until a sufficient volume of new roots are brought online to support new growth. In most cases, the grower uses a digital moisture monitor, their forefinger, to check moisture levels. If the top inch or two of soil is dry, they add more to the saturated layer at the bottom of the pot, which is still waiting to evaporate or be used for the plant. This very often results in the cyclic and never ending death and regeneration of roots, which is paid for by energy that would otherwise be put toward growth or ensuring the healthy glow we all covet.

Media that holds no, or very little perched water is a much better choice. These media will always be based on an VERY high % of coarse ingredients, usually between 75-90%, with some smaller particles mixed in to adjust water retention to suitable levels; this, because it's primarily soil particle size that determines how much excess water a medium can/will hold. Media with high % of peat, coir, compost, composted forest products, sand (other than horticultural sand which you would likely consider gravel), topsoil, in any combination lead to watering issues that rob plants of most of their genetic potential.

The most productive media will hold water inside of porous particles, on the surface of all particles, and at the interface where particles contact each other, and there would be no appreciable amount of water in the spaces between soil particles. In order to achieve that end, a very large fraction of soil particles would necessarily be large/coarse to achieve that end. Something like this would be an excellent choice for a huge % of succulents and cacti:

Al

Agreed, Tapla. I have started adding perlite to the commercially prepared soil I purchase from the nursery (which is much superior to such soils as Miracle Grow you get at big box stores). Succulents thrive in course soil.

Do you realize that adding perlite to water-retentive media like MG decreases aeration on a per volume basis? It's easy to visualize in your mind's eye how this works. Imagine you have a pint jar full to the brim with fine material like sand. What happens when you add a marble or a large particle of perlite to the fine material? The larger particles displace a volume of fine material equal to their own volume, so the air space/ aeration in the jar decreases actually and by percentageswith each large particle you add. By the time you get to the point where you cannot add any more marbles because the jar is completely full of marbles and there is exactly enough sand between the marbles to fill all the pore space between the marbles. This is the most difficult medium to grow in because the roots can only grow in whatever volume of sand is left in the jar, and the volume of sand only, has the same % of air space it had before adding the marbles. True?

when you arrive at the point where you have fine and coarse material mixed together, and there is exactly enough fine material (sand) between the coarse material (marbles) to fill all the pore space between the marbles, it's referred to as the "threshold proportion" or "critical mixing ratio". Only when your mix has an insufficient volume of fine material to fill all the spaces between the coarse particles will you be able to take full advantage of the superior aeration/drainage offered by very large %s of coarse materials. Ideally, the coarse (>1/10") material would make up at least 80% and as much as 95% your mix, and any fine materials would be sparingly added to 'adjust' water retention.

Threshold Proportion PDF file

Al

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/choosing-a-soil-amendment/

https://www.perlite.org/the-water-holding-capacity-of-perlite/