Tenacity is a short-lived pre-emergent (about a month) and you are limited in how much you can use in a year. Read the directions. It's great for certain situations, like seeding, but for run of the mill winter weeds, I'd use Weed B Gon instead (read the directions about when to apply). You need a longer-lived pre-emergent, like Dimension or Prodiamine, if you want to prevent crabgrass all spring and summer. I am in zone 7 and my tttf has stayed geeen all winter. But yours may be dormant. Wait and see. Save the fertilizer for late May and then next fall. Did you do a soil test last fall?

I did do home test for the soil and added some lime, but overall the soil was in good pH and nutrient range.

I've read those other pre-em can stay in the soil a long time and limit by ability to overseed in spring and even potentially in the fall. Right now its not very thick so i think being able to overseed is important... but, Ill listen to all advise on that.

I have Halts as well, and used it a year ago but did not continue with it through the summer and the crabgrass just took over (which is why I decided to just destroy it all).

Will tenacity be good to use now to at least get rid of the poa annua? That has been a problem in years past.

Is fertilizer now not a good idea?

If you're planning to overseed this spring, then Tenacity is good to use as a pre-emergent until you can use a normal pre-emergent. You would do an application at seeding, then another application a month after germination or after the second mowing (of the new grass), then a normal pre-emergent after that (read the directions on how soon it can be used). If you're planning to overseed next fall, then that limits you on using a normal pre-emergent later in the spring. It will be about 4 months before you can seed again and that's using the minimum amount of product. So maybe you ought to decide whether you want to seed in the spring or the fall instead of trying to do it twice. Fall is a better time to seed for many reasons. Tenacity is good as a pre-emergent against poa annua but it is not listed as an effective post emergent (though some have had luck using a frequent low dose strategy in the spring). Most of the poa annua you have germinated last fall. Save the fertilizer for late May, unless you are using it to help correct soil deficiencies. If all you did last fall was a home soil test, you should do a Logan Labs test ASAP and get Morpheus to interpret it. Best use of $25 you can do for the lawn.

So would the best strategy potentially be to treat what weeds I do have, use a real pre-em to keep the crap away through the summer, and prepare for an overseeding in the fall instead (I know fall is the best, but given how thin things look now I figured spring would be good to try, but not if at the cost of introducing more crabgrass again)

I just looked up the Logan Labs test.. I'll do it!

Yes. Your grass doesn't look thin to me. Just looks like brown tops. That will get mowed away once grass starts growing in the spring. Plan to overseed, if still needed, in the middle to late August. Plan the pre-emergent accordingly, so that you have protection spring and summer but that it has worn off by the first of August (read the pre-emergent directions and use the amount for whatever amount of months in your region for your type of grass). When August comes, if you do not need to overseed, use pre-emergent again. That will prevent poa annua germination in the fall.