end with one piece without exposing MDF on one cut end

Edge banding

Edge banding

How do I get glossy white thermofoil edge banding that doesn't look like poop? Right on the most visible, exposed, high traffic/wear corner of my whole kitchen?

I might rather have a (finished, foiled) seam down the center of the end panel than risk the tearout of the exposed edge. But maybe there is a way to fuse a piece of banding to the existing foil?

I'd probably abut two 24" wide doors. Do you have any uppers? They'll simply mimic the look of the uppers.

Ah, is this ringhult white? That is going to be trickier to match than the other finishes. Benjesbride has a good solution and since those are plain slab it won't be fussy looking.

Yeah, the ringhult white. Absolutely plain, slab. But I'd rather not have the seam on the side, dang it. :)

I don't know if it'll look any better but maybe you could cut down a panel and abut deco strips on the sides to finish it. It'll put a seam on the left and right edges instead of down the center.

eta: this one is flat and 2 3/8" wide http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00208203/

I don't know if it'll look any better but maybe you could cut down a panel and abut deco strips on the sides to finish it.

Hmm, good idea. Those strips are 3/4" instead of 5/8" (argh), but I could shave them down a bit. Maybe I could put the seams 3/4" back from the edge, so they match the door fronts and kinda look like them.

Thanks for this - I am / was planning a waterfall on the full width of my island - but the 2 door solution is a great backup. On the narrow end, where my island is a full depth cabinet backed up to a 15" depth the panel will bridge it.

Ringhult does drive an issue because it's so hard to match any edge.

One suggestion is to use the panel covering the back end of the island to cover the edge of the side panel.

My suggestion is that you make panel A long enough to overlap the edge of B.

Another alternative would be to use some sort of metal schluter edging to cover the raw edge.

In general, with the panels, we found that we needed to be a little flexible and come up with solutions after the cabinets were installed. I would just order a bunch of extra trim, panels, and kicktoe -- that way you have it.

My suggestion is that you make panel A long enough to overlap the edge of B.

Yes, I should have been more precise in my writing. The challenge comes when there are cabinets on both sides of the island, which is what I have. Then there seems to be no way to keep covering the raw edge with the next piece of panel.

I doub this problem is specific to SEKTION. It's just a geometry conundrum.

Iron on some edge banding and hit it with a file. It'll be fine.

We have a peninsula and used the cover panels on side and back - there are no exposed edges on the end, I am not sure how the installer did that! Maybe there was a panel just the right side for the end? For the back, it is 116" so we needed 2 panels with a seam but it's under the countertop overhang and virtually invisible unless you search for it. I'd ask the kitchen designer or installer if you're using one.

I have cabinets on both sides of my Akurum island and we used the 3x8 cover panel. I planned to use edge banding but decided to experiment. I sanded the raw edge really well then carefully coated it with wood glue to fill and smooth the surface. I took a door to Lowe's to color match, then gave the edge several coats. It worked great. The Ringhult won't be as forgiving as my Ramsjo, but you can try it on a scrap and know if it will work. If not, go for the edge banding.

By chance is your peninsula 36", tmnca?

As for edge banding, is that something I just go to a third party manufacturer to buy and hope that the color matches? bbtrix, you're the second or third person to suggest "edge banding," but I feel like it's going to have to be "color matched edge banding" to not be obvious. I'm pretty ignorant about this stuff, so if you guys say it exists, that's good to know.

I planned to use edge banding and started researching it, but ended up just sanding and painting glue on the exposed rough end of the panel prior to painting. Sorry I wasn't clear.

I agree with KL, this might be your best bet. Another option, if you have a good track saw or tablesaw is to take and cut one thing edge off of one of your panels (say about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick). Then turn this on its side and glue/pin nail it over the seam to cover it up. You basically would be using some your scrap as a piece of molding (hope that makes sense).

I’m wondering what you ended up doing? We have the exact same issue right now. If you found a good solution, we would love to hear what it was.

You could always use an iron-on or contact spray glue piece of high- gloss edgebanding. The thing would be to get a clean cut edge. I would rough cut the large panel to a few inches more than you need to make it easier to work with, use a clamped on straight edge longer than the piece to get a straight cut. Clean up tha last 1/8" with a router for the smoothest cut. Some other things that might work but would take a pretty high skilll level. A mitered cut or better still a miter fold (cutting a large v grove in the back of the panel almost all the way through then folding it over in itself. One other thing I thought of is if the thermofiol can be peeled back by heating it there's some tricks that can be played we that.