Have you just considered finishing high quality Engineered floors on site with a finish like Bona Traffic HD?

We have a reclaimed, environmentally friendly engineered flooring line that combines the perfect rustic look with the durability of an engineered floor. It is low VOC with high quality plywood backing and looks great in applications from floors to walls. http://www.houzz.com/projects/1355492/new-flooring-collections All flooring collections pictured come in engineered.

We have a sales rep in South Florida that could speak with you as well.

I'm not familiar with anything considered a "commercial grade" finish on a hardwood floor. Most, if not all of the mass produced flooring is produced with a U. V. (ultra violet) cured finish in an aluminum oxide finish (or similar).

We, however, have retired our U. V. system in exchange for a system which allows us to vary finishes in a infra red/heat curing system.

This permits us to use a variety of finish types... the most popular (and durable) of which is our proprietary Aluminum Oxide Poly Finish... which is available in a wide variety of sheen levels, and has proven to be quite durable as well as "user friendly". This approach also allows application of additional coats AFTER installation, if desired, as well as re-coats in several years as a maintenance procedure. This is an option that is typically NOT achieved easily in the U. V. finishes, mass production products.

Best of luck

Select Hardwood, I was looking at this ...

https://nydreeflooring.com

Floors that are 3 x more durable ....

Apparently, the company you reference has revived the old system once produced by others. Permagrain, Hartco, & GammaPar being only 3 of them.

Those products were "infused" with an acrylic/plastic component under high pressure, which essentially altered the appearance of the wood as well as the abrasion resistance factor. Being an "old timer" in the biz, I remember seeing those products used heavily 20-30 years ago... but they went the way of the dinosaur because they were a) expensive, b) difficult to maintain & repair, c) unpredictable in their color consistency, and the list could go on.

This doesn't mean improvements may not have been made... but unfortunately, time is the measure of overall performance, which is what will determine whether or not the proper choice was made.

Good luck.

IMO if you are worried go laminate there are many really great laminates from Germany that stnd up very well to kids and dogs

@Patricia Colwell...

re: "laminates"... that may be true, but often people looking for REAL hardwood flooring are disappointed if/when they make the transition to "pictures of wood on plastic". Perhaps I'm slightly biased, but considering laminate vs. hardwood is like wanting apples, and settling for oranges. (IMHO)

Select, I agree -- I would not be happy with laminate at all. There is also a company called From the Forest (www.fromtheforest.com) that has an incredibly hard finish (I took a hammer to it and it barely made a mark!!!!), and they are American made, no added formaldehyde, and carb compliant etc.....but it has aluminum oxide in the finish -- which doesn't matter as much to me because I would never refinish the floor, I would only replace damaged planks -- but I worry about the dust from cutting the planks during installation. We won't be living in the house when the wood is installed, but I am a little concerned about dust remaining in the house long after installation. Also, if I want to replace a plank, it would need to be cut out of the floor and the dust would be in the house -- not sure if this is a valid concern, but it's on my mind.

The installers should put up plastic sheeting prior to any installation of wood or prep work. They can cover cabinets, fans, lighting fixtures, painting/pictures, return air vents etc. Once installation is complete I would change your air filters. This will help reduce the amount of fine dust left over when installation is complete.
If and when you need a board replaced, the installer should be using a shop vac during the process of removing the damaged board. The shop vac will catch most of the dust during removal. Some saw tools have attachments available to hook up a shop vac to catch the unwanted dust.