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eeyuh

Choices for green wall; moss rock or camouflaged cinderblock wall

Eeyuh
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago




Beginning a long-term, full landscaping
project. Starting with the retaining wall and what will cover the mismatched
fences . Been looking at this for a year, and we just want to make a
good-enough, wise decision and get moving. Going to try to write this out
clearly and briefly.

OBJECTIVE: English / Mediterranean
garden to peacefully sit, read, drink tea and eat in, put on summer garden
performances, children can run/hide/play in. A green, flowering sanctuary with
edibles inhabited by people, butterflies pollinators and birds. We’re starting
with perimeter – what are the walls of the garden going to be?

DIMENSIONS AND DETAILS: Backyard: 40'
long x 35' deep. Neighbor on the left’s garden is about 3 ft higher than ours.
To level the yard we're taking out about a foot of dirt at the high point and
grading from there. We’re full sun, Northern California Mediterranean climate
(9), drought sensitive. Clay soil. Mismatched fences (see images). The left
side of the backyard (retaining wall side) flows into a 10' wide side yard that
runs the length of the house. It will all be landscaped. We have good
relationships with all neighbors and wish to keep it that way.

CONCERNS: What to do with the retaining
wall? How to cover the many different fences to create a green wall that both
unifies the final garden and helps create a sense of rooms – we’re all about
having areas hidden so you have sense of going into something. Place to read,
to hide (if you’re a child), etc. No gardener - just us. Limits to how much
maintenance work I can put in.

QUESTION #1: WHAT TO DO WITH THE
RETAINING WALL?

Option 1: Moss rock (Sonoma fieldstone).
About $1600 in materials + labor to build our 72' ft x 2’-3’ high wall on the
left side. There’s 9”-12” between the wall and the fence with dirt o grow vines
for privacy and beauty. Minus to using vines: we’re limited to the height of
the fence (we’d like to go one foot higher) and it’ll grow OVER the fence and
I’m not sure how all the neighbors will feel about that. Plus to the vines:
narrower footprint and less maintenance than a hedge, more flower options.

Option 2: Leave the cinder block wall,
extend it where there’s no wall (used to be a crumbling garage we removed when
we bought the house). Cover the cinder block with stucco and put one row of
moss rock or brick on the top for looks, grow a vine over the stucco for green,
or something that spills over the top of the wall. Grow a flowering vine along
the property line fence for greenery and to cover the fence as in Option 1.

Option 3: Leave the cinder wall as in
Option 2 and grow a narrow hedge (options below) smack next to the wall (to
minimize how much hedge grows out into usable yard area), thus giving us a
green wall. I like fairly clean edged hedges. English and cozy. We’d trim the
hedge at about 7 ft, don’t want to push the fence over. Will pay to have it
trimmed completely twice a year max. Can go out and clean up stray bits
periodically.

QUESTION #2: WHAT ABOUT THAT GREEN WALL,
EH?

What to plant – as it affects the
retaining wall we build, and do we grow up against those fences or put lattice
or something in FRONT of the fences to grow vines on?

Option 1: Grow vines around the
perimeter. Use different vines for variety, different bloom types and flowering
at different times of year. I’d REALLY like shrub roses and jasmine but they
get top heavy and bald at the bottom, so I think we’d have roses high and bare
vines low. One landscaper suggested a
narrow arbor in front of hedges (or vines) so I can grown those lovely
roses/jasmine/grapes, drooping down, with the vine/hedge covering the fences.
Okay with lots of sun.

Option 2: Hedges. Fairly fast growing,
narrow (2-3ft), and naturally growing no more than 10ish feet. Decent drought
resistance (we’re in California), and non-invasive (because we care.) Okay with full sun. Would love privet, but
too invasive and thick, so we’ve sadly nixed it.

Short lists include:

• Island
Mt Mahogany (Cercocarpus alnifolius) - narrow anyway, treat it as a vine flat
against fence, 2x year selective pruning, will grow up to 8 ft, smaller leaves

• Coffeeberry
(with irrigation every 2 weeks will grow over 2ft/yr here)

• western
trumpet honeysuckle vine - hummingbird, can be in a good amount of sun

• native
clematis - white flower

• Viburnum
tinus – Laursustinus

• wax
myrtle

• carpenteria
californica (slowest, gets 7 ft tall and 3-4 ft wide) needs some water but
works in narrow side yards.

• James
Roof

Design we were thinking of, but we’d
need hedges (sketch attached:)

Hedge grown in front of the retaining
wall up to that tall cinder block wall in the back of the yard. Hedge wall
grown perpendicular to the fence hedge, so as you come up the side yard into
the garden you see a hedge wall in front of you with a circle window cut out.
Through that circle you can see what’s beyond, but to get there you have to
walk 3 feet around it – intrigue…

Oh lord, any input is greatly
appreciated!!!

Comments (5)

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    7 years ago

    After reading and looking, I'm pretty sure that what I don't understand about your site greatly outweighs what I do understand. It would help lot to begin with better pictures. If you want to do that, stand at the center, back of your house and from that position pan the camera 180* left to right, taking slightly overlapping pictures that capture the entire perimeter of the yard. Then move the camera to the center of the back fence and do the same thing looking the other way ... pan 180* from left to right showing the side fences and the house ... everything in slightly overlapping pictures so that one could understand what is in the complete scene and how things in it relate to one another. keep the camera level for the pictures so that grade has a chance of being understood. The pictures should be sharp and clear, without major shadows.

    At some point, whatever information you choose to explore will need to be explored in plan (bird's eye) view. If you drew the base plan now and incorporated it into the thread, it would compliment the pictures insofar as having people more accurately understand the property layout. As with the pictures, it's also a tool that's useful for imparting information back to you.

    Other than the fact of being are in a Mediterranean climate, do you mean that there is something in the final product that should APPEAR Mediterranean in some way? If so, describe your expectation of this appearance. And what is your expectation of the "English" appearance?

    The overall space is relatively small. I would counsel you against subdividing it into smaller portions as this stands a good chance of limiting your opportunities for whatever greater impact the space is capable of. Instead, divide the space from the side yard, making each into separate "rooms." That creates a perfect opportunity to add an arbor between the two and give the back yard a more private feeling.

    A lawn, like a a living room carpet, can be a nice, multi-purpose platform. But it's not very good for supporting furniture like one might need for lounging on a regular basis. For that, a patio or deck works better. Is there a desire for shade?

    Eeyuh thanked Yardvaark
  • Eeyuh
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Thank you Yardvaark.

    Meditarranean refers to the climate, though I do also like Meditarranean gardens. English garden means some hedges, crucnchy paths, relaxed, busy with layers of flowers, as lush as we're able to make it, useful plants mixed between ornamentals, some trailing the ground, some climbing vertically, pops of color. My mum is English. The gardens she grew up with and the she kept as I grew up. Rough guides for us.

    Here are better photos. The yard is super bumpy from the the bobcat sinking into wet clay soil when we pulled up all the concrete. We've had to wait for the soil to dry. The bobcat is coming back to grade and smooth.

    This is the left side with the cinder block retaining wall. If we planted a hedge, it would go in front of the cinder blocks. If we build a moss rock wall, the wall would be built in front of the cinder blocks and would wrap over them. The fence is actually straight - the crookedness is from the panoramic scan. The fence with all lattice has no retaining wall right now. After it's graded, the area in front of the lattice will be a 3' wall as it's the high point of the yard and we're taking out 1' of dirt. It's only a 2' wall at the other end.


    Close up of the area we'd potentially plant vines. It's above the wall, in front of the fence. Plenty of weeds there before, bamboo and blackberries. You can see the side yard. That gate at the end gets replaced and moved back a good 10'. It was all concrete. The kitchen is by the gate, so we'll put herbs, small BBQ and a place to eat over there. I'm thinking pavers with green in between. The side yard passes 3 rooms, so we'll put arbors to create slightly different areas to look out of from each room, and to give a sense of passing through slightly different spaces to get to the backyard.


    This the same area from the other direction, facing the concrete garage wall at the back of the yard. If we go hedge, it would be planted right at the wall, where the dying cala lilies are, growing towards the fence for its depth.


    And a panoramic of the retaining wall side in two images, slightly warped from the panoramic scan.


    This shows the concrete wall that used to be the back of the garage. Please excuse the leftover tree bits. We did battle with a monstrous Blackwood Acacia that was crushing the neighbor's roof. No warping. This is the lumpy yard.


    Back of the yard. I'd love rose vines covering all of this. Something.


    Right side of the yard. The white wall is the downhill neighbor's garage, right on the property line. It was under 18" of dirt when we moved in. I excavated it and we're grading to this height to keep her garage wall exposed.

    The garden actually extends beyond this photo. There's about 5' width that runs 4'-10' along the side of the house, depending on where we move the fence.


    And finally, the existing back of the house. We're extending that room so the house is a square - where the green bin is will be house. That slider will be replaced with a 10' French sliding door. The small window will be replaced and moved. The metal siding will be gone. There will be a deck along the entire back of the house, about 5' deep. We're grading to the level of the house. The rickety fence on the left will be moved back and replaced.


  • NHBabs z4b-5a NH
    7 years ago

    It sounds from the description ("we're taking out 1' of dirt" and "grading to the level of the house") that you will be creating a relatively flat yard that's lower than all surrounding properties. Have you had anyone come look at this from an engineering/drainage point of view? If you have 1/2" of heavy rain, and the surrounding properties are higher, where does that leave you? Though you may be a drought now, that doesn't mean that this will always be the case, so you want to be sure to plan for accommodations for water flow, and any major changes in grade will effect this. Even if you aren't lower than all surrounding properties, will your regrading effect water flower onto neighboring properties?

  • PRO
    Yardvaark
    7 years ago

    NHBabs is hitting the nail on the head that being careful about grading will be critical. It looks like you're surrounded by structures on the side of the lot that water appears it would drain toward (left side when facing back of house from back lot line.) Water will need to be routed from the right side, around the house and toward the left. It would be important to know what is between the houses on that side, where the water will go and how it will get there. Hopefully, you will have someone actively involved who knows how to take take of this.

    5' depth of deck seems almost useless. There is no room for the furniture one would commonly use on a deck: 4-top table & chairs, an extra chair of two, maybe and end table, a chaise if one is into that ... and a grill. If the grill uses wood or charcoal it might be just off the deck. !0' deck depth is about the minimum you could do without starting to miniaturize furniture.

    Since the space is tight, it would really be good to begin planning the things out, to scale, on a plan. If you make a simple base plan, you can run copies of it to use for scratching out ideas and brainstorming with little or no erasing.

  • PRO
    UpScapers - Authorized Vistafolia Partner
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Try an artificial green wall it looks amazing no matter what the base fence is and it is no hassle no maintenance. It will turn your backyard into and oasis.




    Upscapers