WHY YOU NEED FILLER IN CORNERS IF YOU DO NOT
USE A STANDARD CORNER SOLUTION

Corners in a kitchen have historically been handled by either a corner susan or blind corner cabinet - what I call "standard corner solutions". Over the last few years, we on GW Kitchens have been promoting other ideas for handling a corner:

(1) Turning a standard cabinet 90 degrees to face outside the kitchen when the corner has at least one open side (e.g., peninsula)

(2) Corner Drawers

(3) Voiding out the corner completely

Each has pros and cons (which I am not going to go into here at this time) and each has design considerations that need to be addressed. This topic will address the need for "filler" on the kitchen side when you decide to go with items (1) or (3).

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When cabinets and/or appliances are in a corner, you need to be sure that all cabinets/appliances on each side of the corner are usable - that you can open doors/drawers/appliances fully without running into items on the other side of the corner. To ensure this, you will need "filler" in the corners - filler that is wide enough to allow doors/drawers/appliances to clear everything on the other side of the corner when those doors/drawers/appliances are opened.

OK, this is probably a bit confusing, so let me clarify with an illustration and then an explanation. There are two sets of illustrations - the right way and the wrong way:

First, the right way:

An appliance next to the corner:

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Now, the wrong way (showing a drawer and door attempting to be opened):

An appliance next to the corner:

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********** EXPLANATION **********

Total depth of a cabinet...Cabinet boxes are 24" deep. Then, add 1" for the drawer front/door. Finally add another 1.5" for drawer pulls/door knobs (some are 1.25", some 2" deep). Your cabinets are now 26.5" total depth (at least). Add a bit for clearance (you'll see why in a minute), and you're now up to 27" depth (24" + 1" + 1.5" + 0.5" = 27") The actual depth will vary +/- an inch or so, depending on the particular cabinet line. Assume 27", though, to be safe. (You don't want an "Oh no, my XXX can't be opened!" moment!)

So, you now have 27" deep cabinets on both sides of the corner.

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Appliance in a corner...If you have an appliance within 6" to 9" or so of the corner, determine the depth for that side based on the total depth of the appliance (including doors & handles) + whatever space is needed behind it. E.g., most ranges are around 29" deep, including doors & handles. Looking at installation instructions of various ranges, it looks like there should be approximately 2" behind a range (check the specs or installation instructions to determine what your range requires). So, that brings you to approximately 31" total depth - for a range. Each appliance has its own specs.

So, we know know that the total cabinets are 27" deep and a range, e.g., is 31" deep.

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When you install these items in a corner, you need to have enough space for the drawers, doors, pulls/knobs, handles, whatever, clear the cabinets on the other side of the corner - see the illustrations above that show the right and wrong ways.

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[NOTE: The examples above were originally done in response to a member asking about IKEA cabinets - that's why IKEA is mentioned on the drawings. However, this information applies to ALL cabinet lines & type (stock/semi-custom/custom, framed/frameless, full overlay/partial overlay, etc.) In some cases, cabinets can be modified to include wider frames on the sides of the cabinets to act as filler. Talk to your cabinetmaker regarding pros/cons of both filler and extended frames.]

MINIMUM KITCHEN DEPTHS TO ACCOMMODATE AN ISLAND...

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No island seating --AND-- the kitchen "dead ends" --AND-- there are no cabinets, a pantry, an appliance, and/or counter behind the seats:

• One-person kitchen:
  25.5" for perimeter counter + 42" aisle + 27" deep island + 36" aisle = 130.5" = 10'10.5"
• Two-person or more kitchen: 25.5" for perimeter counter + 48" aisle + 27" deep island + 36" aisle = 136.5" = 11'4.5"
• Note: a 27" deep island is a single cabinet's depth + 1.5" counter overhang on all sides – and it is a very shallow island!

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No islandseating --AND-- the aisle behind the seats is a thoroughfare to other parts of the house or has cabinets, a pantry, an appliance, and/or counter behind the seats:

• One-person kitchen:
  25.5" for perimeter counter + 42" aisle + 27" deep island + 48" aisle = 142.5" = 11'10.5"
• Two-person or more kitchen:
  25.5" for perimeter counter + 48" aisle + 27" deep island + 48" aisle = 148.5" = 12'4.5"

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Island seating--AND-- seldom-used walkway such as b/w Laundry Room and the rest of the house or if the kitchen "dead ends" --AND-- there are no cabinets, a pantry, an appliance, and/or counter behind the seats:

• One-person kitchen:
  25.5" for perimeter counter + 42" aisle + 41.5" deep island + 48" aisle = 157" = 13'1"
• Two-person or more kitchen:
  25.5" for perimeter counter + 48" aisle + 41.5" deep island + 48" aisle = 163" = 13'7"

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Island seating --AND-- busy walkway such as b/w garage and rest of the house or if the kitchen is b/w the DR and FR or LR --AND/OR-- there are cabinets, a pantry, an appliance, and/or counter behind the seats:

• One-person kitchen:
  25.5" for perimeter counter + 42" aisle + 41.5" deep island + 65" aisle = 174" = 14'6"
• Two-person or more kitchen:
  25.5" for perimeter counter + 48" aisle + 41.5" deep island + 65" aisle = 180" = 15'

Other Considerations:

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Trash & recycle pullout

The trash/recycle pullout works best in the Prep Zone, near the Cooking Zone, and, if only one and possible, near the Cleanup Zone. Far more trash & recyclables are generated while prepping and cooking than while cleaning up.

So, if you have to choose, put the trash & recycle in the Prep Zone instead of the Cleanup Zone. [That's the biggest mistake I made, I put it in the Cleanup Zone across a 6' aisle from the Prep Zone...it's my biggest regret by far in my kitchen.]

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Prep sinks

Prep sinks should be no smaller than 12" x 12" interior space...and bigger is better - I recommend no less than 15" in each direction, 18" would be better, IMHO. Anything smaller is not very useful for prepping.

Those smaller sinks are often called "bar sinks" b/c they're really only big enough for filling a glass with water or dumping a glass. They're not big enough to clean veggies/fruit or empty a colander.

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Zone protection

Strive to protect the Cooking Zone from traffic - both through-traffic as well as in-kitchen traffic. While cooking, you are dealing with very hot pots/pans/food and you don't want to be tripping over or dodging traffic, open DW doors, etc.

This usually means putting the Cooking Zone in the most "secluded" area...but not always, it depends on the workflow in your design.

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Work/Landing Space

Be sure you have adequate work and landing space near/around appliances and in zones. Sometimes skimping is required when it's a small kitchen.

• Prep Zone...36" continuous/clear countertop and next to a water source. Experience has shown that 42" to 48" is much, much better.
• Cooking Zone...See Cooktop/Range
• Cleanup Zone...See "Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink"
• Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink...A minimum of 24" of clear counterspace on one side of the sink, and 18" on the other side with the 24" at the same counter height as the sink.
• Sink - Prep... A minimum of 6" (18" is better) of clear counterspace on one side of the prep sink and 36" of clear prep workspace on the other side (again, 42" to 48" is much better).
• Refrigerator...A minimum of 15" of clear counterspace on the handle side of the refrigerator or on either side of a side-by-side or no more than 48" across from the refrigerator. If an
  oven is next to the refrigerator, the refrigerator should be the one placed
  next to counterspace.
• Ovens (Wall)...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space next to or above an oven if there it is on an aisle with through-traffic. If it's on an aisle with no through-traffic, then the 15" can be across from it.
• MW...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space above, below, or next to the MW.
• Counterspace if two zones/appliances are next to each other…Take the longest of the two and add 12".
• Cooktop/Range
  -- If the range/cooktop is against the wall, a minimum of 9" of counterspace b/w the wall (protected by flame retardant material) and the range/cooktop. (18" is better for elbow room)
  -- If the range/cooktop is on the end of a run that is open, a minimum of 18" of counterspace is needed for both emergency landing space and a safety zone/buffer b/w the range/cooktop and end of the counter.
  -- The other side of the range/cooktop should have a minimum of 24" for both emergency landing space and workspace.
  -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with no seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 18" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula.
  -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 24" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula.
  -- Note: For functionality, at least 24" on each side is better, regardless of location of cooktop/range. This space can be shared with the Prep Zone on one side; if it is, then there should be at least 48" (36" + 12") on the side shared with the Prep Zone.
  -- Check your local Code. Some local Codes are more restrictive. If not, stick to these recommendations.

REFRIGERATOR SPACING

Why do you need extra space b/w a wall and a refrigerator (or any item deeper than the refrigerator box)?

Both Standard-Depth and Counter-Depth refrigerators need extra room b/w them and anything that sticks out past the refrigerator's box/carcass to allow all doors to open fully. This allows the doors and handles to clear the objects next to them when open and to allow the doors to be fully opened.

This is particularly important when removing shelves and bins for cleaning. If the doors do not open fully, you may have to pull out the refrigerator!

How much space do you need? It depends on the depth of the item the refrigerator is next to.

• If the wall or other item is 12" or more deeper than the refrigerator box/carcass, you usually need 12" b/w the refrigerator and that item.
• If the wall or other item is 9" to 11" deeper than the refrigerator box/carcass, you usually need 9" b/w the refrigerator and that item.
• If the wall or other item is 6" to 9" deeper than the refrigerator box/carcass, you usually need 6" b/w the refrigerator and that item.
• If the wall or other item is less than 6" deeper than the refrigerator box/carcass, you usually need 4" b/w the refrigerator and that item.

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Note that this space does not have to be empty filler. It can easily be utilized by putting a tall pullout pantry or utility pullout cabinet in that space.

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For fully integrated, built-in refrigerators, very little space is needed. The specs for installing these refrigerators will have the information about this.

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Note..."Counter-depth" refrigerators are not really counter-depth when considering the entire refrigerator. The only part that is "counter-depth" is the refrigerator box/carcass. The doors and handles are not included in the "counter-depth" term. Why? Because as is explained above the door must extend out past the surrounding cabinets, counter edges, walls, etc. Most "counter-depth" refrigerators are 29" to 31" deep when including the doors and handles. Standard-depth are even deeper (usually 33" to 36"), so you are still saving several inches with a counter-depth.

TABLE SIZES

When sizing tables for seating, keep in mind the minimum seating needs. Tables are generally 30" off the floor. So, each seat needs:

• 24" to 30" of linear space
• 18" to 19" of leg space that is not shared with the seat across from or next to it
• This includes the seats on all sides/ends

Note that while 39" or so of depth for a table may be adequate for leg room for short to average height people, 42" will be better for anyone taller or with long legs. It also adds additional space on the table surface for serving dishes, etc.

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Minimum, using 24" of linear space:

+++++ Please do not bump -- this thread will be referenced from the "Read Me" thread. +++++