I like Sophie's solution.

My kitchen use's Sophie's solution (where the drawer would otherwise hit the dishwasher). It looks fine and leaves the drawer completely functional, though I do roll my eyes every time I see it knowing that someone didn't bother to measure correctly.

code4fun, would you mind posting a pic showing Sophie's solution? I cant picture it.

Liz, sophie is saying, cut off the part of the drawer front that hits the stove. Attach that cut off piece to the cabinet so it looks like it is part of the drawer front when the drawer is closed.

Since you cut off the piece that hits the stove, you can now open the drawer all the way.

Having a drawer edge that does not line up with the doors below it would drive me WAY more insane than a drawer that does not function well. Weigh it all out before you start cutting new cabinets.

Perhaps you can change the top drawer to 2 drawers, so they still line up with the doors below, but only one half will function properly. The left could even be non functioning, but at least appear to be a drawer.

If you change to 2 drawers as Barnes Custom Builders describes, you could do a hinge bin on one and a full pull out drawer on the one closest to the sink.

You could use a pull down hinge for the whole face of the drawer and install an internal drawer. I am just not sure if there is enough space for the face of the drawer to be pulled down to 90 degrees, so that the internal drawer can open.

Either Sophie's solution or the hinge solution would work. You just have to decide what you can live with. Here is a solution from houzz....

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/drawer-design-problem-dsvw-vd~3140457

Here is some google images on hinge drawer opening. Then you make the pull out small enough to fit.

https://www.google.com/search?q=hinge+drawer+opening&rlz=1C1CHZL_enUS746US746&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi7vOrml-fZAhUl04MKHdvIAGoQsAQIhQE&biw=1600&bih=794

Who failed to supply the appliances specs to the kitchen designer? Because that is who gets to pay for any fix here. And all of the overly elaborate hardware fixes will not stand the test of time.

Sophie, we went with our builder and picked out our appliances. He provided the information to the kitchen designer.

Really, it’s so simple....just make a drawer with a little less depth.

Then he gets to propose and create the solution. Because the original solution would have been a larger blind corner base filler that would have allowed a smaller drawer to clear. And you would have less storage than you do now. He might just put in that larger filler and smaller door and drawer. But it’s HIS problem to solve.

You could just replace the wide cabinet with a narrower drawer base and add a filler piece to the left of the narrower drawer bank and then you would probably have more storage and the drawers would slide past the handle......

There is an easy fix for this. You have a rather large overlay on the drawer front. If you could change the cabinet to all drawers and shorten the left overlay on the drawer fronts, it should all work if you can do custom size drawer fronts. There is no cabinet on the left the drawers have to butt up against and you would just have a bit more of the filler all ready there showing. The hardware would be centered on the drawers and no one would know that one overlay is larger.

The handle on the oven is also an issue, the drawer (when fully opened) needs to clear that handle. The range could be recessed into the back wall by a few inches. This will involve some new framing & drywall. I think it would look intentional after the tile is installed. I would prefer this solution over a new cabinet or cabinet modification. Whatever is decided upon is NOT your cost to bear.

I just installed a Kohler sink out of manufacturer's specifications to accommodate the same problem. This problem and yours was birthed in a kitchen designers office.

This is really such a good reminder of how important the details are in kitchen design and that it usually requires more than one set of eyes and really good communication between parties. Kitchen design is a distinct science in and of itself beyond decorating and beyond general contracting. I am doing a flip where I am repeating the existing kitchen design and my kitchen designer STILL found a few small errors I had made and helped me correct them. The devil is in the details.

Chiflipper, shortening the drawers overlays on the left should clear all the protrusions on the range. Being able to recess into the wall would help, but it would be a fire hazard. Works for a fridge but I don't think a stove unless the area above it to the ceiling is also recessed. A very expensive fix.

You have to see past the ugly, poorly painted cabinet, the crumpled up drawer paper, and the fact that the countertop isn't properly attached to the cabinet... (issues for another day), but this is the idea...

I am not so sure changing the range is a bad idea. The range sits very proud of the cabinets. That does not mean the range is bigger in important ways- like the cavity of the oven or the layout the hobs. You could probably find a trimmer range without sacrificing size (Bosch and KA come to mind) that will help alleviate this problem.

I wouldn't be opposed to a new range if it's at no extra cost to me and it still fits what I wanted astatically.

We had a similar situation but it was the cabinet door that couldn't open all the way due to the range (and there were pull out shelves inside so it HAD to open for the shelves to pull out). Stood there with the designer (she was devastated and truly had done an excellent job with everything else), the GC and my husband, doing what everyone on this thread is doing. My husband figured out the two doors rather than one. Obviously won't work in this situation, but, the point is we (all the stakeholders) had a collaborative brainstorming session in the spirit of finding a satisfactory solution. Problem solved, moved on to the next challenge. Hey, it could always be worse:

If it brings you any comfort, we've seen this before. Common error.

I would just use the drawer for things you don't need so often. Or as someone else suggested, lay spice bottles across the front, with a "stop" to hold the bottles to the front, since the drawer pulls out only a few inches anyway.

I agree with Sophie too. However, the easiest fix would be to remove the drawer all together and make 2 larger doors. Good luck to you.

What Sophie said....regarding cutting the left side of the door face off to the drawer box would also be a solution.... It might not look perfect how it the drawer wouldn't line up exactly on the left side of the lower doors....but would fix your issue.

"Stood there with the designer (she was devastated and truly had done an excellent job with everything else),"

It is painful to watch an adult take a spanking, but it's for the best of her career. If she has to pay for her mistake, I swear no drawing will ever leave her desk that could suffer this fate again. Think of all the future heartache and expense this beating will prevent.

I pay tuition all the time and no one cries for me. Pay. Suck it up. Learn and move on.

I'm going to be honest here. I really liked Sophie's solution, but I wasn't sure if she was serious about it. Have any of you regular Houzzers ever seen her suggest a shortcut or hack to a problem? I kept expecting her to add, "Syke! Just kidding. This will cost thousands to fix and you should make the GC pay for it."

Ummm, yes I have. But she did say that the builder with his poor design should make it right!!!

Also, the edge of the low backsplash looks awkward cut off like that where you see the cut edge. Is there a back piece that will be installed behind the range to protect the wall that would cover the edge? I think Sophie's solution would work if you don't want all drawers there, but it would look like the work around it is. The one drawer changed to two drawers there won't and with a stop, you can still access the back of the left drawer for things not often used.

This is what the area would look like if you took out the drawer all together and they made taller doors.

Personally and professionally...in my opinion this would look the best.

Joseph, we cry with you. We laugh with you too!!!

J Renee's pic is brilliant! Such a rather easy fix, IMHO.

Who ever designed the kitchen must order a wider filler to the left of that cabinet and order a more narrow cabinet. That is what should of been done in the first place and I would not settle for fixes. The filler given to you was not wide enough for the drawer to clear the stove. They need to remove the too small of a filler and and the too wide cabinet, replace, and eat the cost of it. This is why appliance specs are so important in order to create an accurate design that will work for the client....and clients must provide all appliance specs that are related to their kitchen.

I know people generally hate corner cabs, but if it came down to extending the filler wouldn't it be better to install a corner cab that opens from the sink side than to lose so much space to a filler?

You need at least 5" filler to clear the stove handles and then order the appropriate size for the cabinet to the right. You are speaking about a Blind corner cabinet and yes they are not liked at all because you will not reach whatever ends up on the blind side. they do make lazy susan attachments for the blinds but there is a restrictions when they are next to appliances such as a stove. This is another discussion that should of been had prior to delivery. The design should of been verified by the installer prior to ordering the cabinets.

I really can't believe how complicated everyone is making this. Your counter tops are on so I can't see rebuilding the cabinets to fix a problem accessing the back third of one drawer. Sophie's idea of cutting the drawer front off and glueing the cut off part onto the face frame would make me mad every time I looked at it. If you looked at stand alone ranges with the controls on the back panel, it might not stick out from your cabinets as far. I doubt it though because I just replace our slide in range for the third time and for some reason all of the ranges we looked at stick out at least an inch more than our old ones. ( must be all part of the same "plot" that makes all refrigerators an inch taller so they won't slide under your cabinets any more). Another benefit to a stand alone would be the back panel would fill the blank spot on your backsplash which someone else mentioned looks kinda odd. Personally I still say replace the drawn guides with shorter ones and live with a drawer that only pulls out 2/3 of the way. (Before the advent of full extension guides that's all you had anyway.) I know it's not perfect,and we all like perfect, but I have to admit I don't think I've ever see a perfect home improvement project yet.

If the builder had the problem in his previous kitchens then he knows that the layout has a design problem and should have been corrected in future plans (yours). The correct design for this corner is for the cabinet with the drawer front to be 6” from the inside corner.

Maybe you could get the contractor to build an In Cabinet Paper Towel Holder. You can find images here on Houzz. Be sure he uses color matched materials for all visible parts.

I would absolutely not be happy with any cobbled approach to this problem. You did not make this problem. If you are wiling to accept compensation in lieu of perfection- fine that is YOUR decision. But if you would prefer your kitchen to work perfectly, then your builder should be paying for the repairs.

Thanks all for your suggestions! In regards to the backsplash, that’s temporary. We will be removing those quartz pieces and putting backsplash up ourselves after we close and I figure out what I want to do, but that’s another post! :)

I like the others' idea of making the filler wider and replacing the cabinet with a bank of drawers. If you have a cabinet on the left side of the sink, (the one running into the stove handle) that is not the same width as a like cabinet on the right side of the sink (not shown in the photo), it would look unbalanced to me and would bother me even more. A bank of drawers would not need to be the same width as a cabinet on the right side of the sink, if that is what's there. I always wish for more drawer storage myself, really needing only one or two base cabinets for tall pots and baking sheets. You're going to have to write back, including a photo, with whatever you end up with! :) We're all invested in this issue!

Afternoon,

I am not going to take the time to read through all 50 comments but wanted to provide my incite.

This is not a fault of the cabinet company if they didn't have appliance specs- the have the enlarged filler in the corner which is enough to clear a range. But if you provided appliances specs to them, they should have reviewed those to and caught that this range is deeper than standard.

At this point the best bet for keeping your function is reducing the size of the drawer face. Your cabinetry is 1/2" overlay so you should be able to cut 1/2" off the left side and top of the drawer in order to make it clear.

But at this point the easiest solution is seeing if they can exchange the range.

Is this a brand new cabinet? If so, get a duplicate drawer front while it's still available. Cut down the drawer front, install it and store the old full-sized one until you are ready for a smaller depth range.

The original post was in March. How did it turn out?

A lot of good suggestions above.

Could alter the above drawer to a titltout. Inside a paper towel placement to left & cubby to the right.

not a garbage can pullout, just the top part for reference for inside space.

or just a tiltout to slide in long rolls of aluminum boxes, etc.

or simply screw a stopper on slide before it hits stove. the drawer winot pullout completely, but could still be used.

just depends what is more functional to the user.

Please post what was done, to help others later.

If I were installing cabinets, as the cabinet company/installing people, I would consider it my problem to know how the cabinets and the appliances were going to work together. I am a bit surprised to see a pro here suggest it's not the installer's problem to know the appliance specifications.

Rita:

That isn't how this game is played. You (GC, owner, architect, or KD) give the cabinet installer signed approved drawings. You don't put your signature on the drawings until you have verified that the appliances and drawers/doors will function together properly.

Were I the cabinet installer and got this call back, you'd get a copy of your signature in response until I got a signed change order paying me to correct someone else's mistake. I once sent a copy of an architect's signature on a shop drawing to a project manager who gave it to the owner who quieted down immediately. The owner's agent, the architect. approved the detail in writing. Game over.

It is no more the cabinet installer's responsibility to check appliance specifications than it is for him to check for roof leaks. Sometimes an experienced installer may make a phone call asking if you're sure of your fillers, but that's just a bonus and a courtesy.