If you can - remove the sheetrock in the closet, and one stud (to make the opening about 30" deep.

Sorry I don't understand what you are suggesting - how would making the opening wider help the problem?

So the issue is that you need a "pocket" to have the pocket door slide in so that if I wanted one I would create a pocket at the back of the closet?

I think that would make the closet too narrow for hangers since at this point it's a standard width closet with hangers essentially just fitting into the width.

My daughter has a similar set up and her door swings into the bedroom. It works fine. She does generally keep her bathroom door at least partially closed. Your designer may be concerned about the bathroom door sticking out past that bit of wall space shown on the left side of your picture. Measure the wall space and width of your door and see how much wider the door is and you’ll know how many inches it will stick out past the wall. Its probably would be 6” at the most. I would not want the bathroom door swinging out into the room on the right side of your picture as it would almost always be blocking access to that closet.

Definitely I would hinge so that it swung against the side wall of the closet. It’s essentially wasted space. I have a small shallow bookcase there but I got rid of all my books while packing up for the remodel :-) so no over flowing book cases anymore as I am exclusively a digital book collector now to minimize clutter.

I’ll have to measure door versus closet side wall to see if it protrudes.

Obviously there’s no really good solution but only a compromise as the current in swinging door is completely dysfunctional for my lifestyle.

Helen, I was about to leave my house this morning when I noticed I had left my front hall closet door open the night before. I snapped a picture of it so you could visualize what I assume your wall and door set up would be. (Sorry for the quality of the picture). Hope this helps

Helen, you don't have to add an extra wall - your closet will be the same depth.

See how this guy installs a pocket door using an existing wall

Thanks so much for the visual. I am now attempting to visualize the door semi ajar and fully ajar and how it would look from various angles. Fully ajar it would be seen as the direct line when entering or looking straight into the master bedroom.

Thanks Geoffrey but the pipes for the bath soon to be shower are in that wall space so the existing wall space couldn’t be used as a door would hit the pipes when slid to the side. There is actually a hole in the back of my closet wall from when I had a shut off valve installed when I needed new valvues to control the bath faucet

Or at least I think that would be the issue that would prevent a pocket door sliding into that closet.

Most closets are 24 inches deep plus almost 5 inches for the wall surrounding the closet, so that closet wall that the door would open against would be 28 to 30 inches deep. How wide is your bathroom door. If 30 inches, nothing to very little of the door would show on entry to the bedroom. If the door is much wider, could you make the bathroom door a little narrower or deepen the closet on the left?

If you can make the closet deeper, you could add a pocket door. How wide is the walkway between the 2 closets? That could make a difference.

My bathroom door is 28" - narrow opening

The depth of the closet to the back wall is 27"

It appears to be about 30" or 31" from the door frame to the end of the closet so it seems as though even when open, it wouldn't protrude in front of the closet wall.

Of course I am not sure exactly where you place the hinge when a door is rehung to open in the other direction but it looks like that would work.

I couldn't make the closet deeper because one end is by the door to the bedroom.

The aisle into the bathroom is pretty narrow as you can tell from the 28" size of the actual door.

If you originally had a bookcase on that wall, you should definitely be able to rest the door against that wall.

If your plumbing is in the way, can it be diverted a bit to allow it to come into the room a bit. This diversion would mean that you bring it toward the toilet direction about 6", then build a second wall to hold the plumbing, and shower fixtures and shower surface. The original wall would now not have plumbing in it and allow the pocket door to go into the original wall. Your shower will be shorter. You could use the end to create openings for storage.

This drawing is what I'm talking about. I don't know if a plumber was in your plans, but I would think the lines could be added to, and rerouted to accommodate a pocket door. Its worth asking about. Cause I think a pocket door is the answer. Especially a door that isn't closed much. Pocket doors are a little more cumbersome to use, cause you just can't swing it open an closed, but I have 2 of them, to save space in my bathroom and I'm satisfied.

enduring - Thanks for the suggestion but it wouldn't be feasible to change the location of either the plumbing or the door frame since it is a small galley style bathroom and the vanity on the opposite wall aligns with the current door frame.

I’m not saying to move the door frame. Just build out the wall on the shower side so you can turn the plumbing into that new layer of wall, and leave the original wall for the pocket door construction.

I can’t move the pipes as I live in a high rise and the pipes service the entire line. It would never be approved by the HOA.

since the door is shorter than the closet wall, it won’t protrude and it is opening into what is really wasted space as there is a slight indent on that wall which can’t be used for anything anyway.

I have a similar issue with my condo bathroom. We will be using a single sliding door hung on a track. Here’s an example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pinecroft-38-in-x-97-in-Glass-Barn-Door-with-Sliding-Door-Hardware-Kit-8BDGL3696OP/206093953

You don’t have to use a glass door.

It doesn't matter which way the door opens, the simplest solution would to have your bathroom door rehung to swing out