I assume this is a DIY kitchen. A drawing would help. This is why one uses a KD - they don't make this kind of mistakes and if they do, it is their cost to fix it.

I agree but it is now done so ost some pics of the floor plan but IMO moving the whole wall of cabinets to clear the door would be I think the best idea.but we really need to see the space.

I agree! Ironically, an interior designer measured everything and came up with the plan. Unfortunately, the ID is my mother in law, so what's a girl to do? We knew it would be close but thought it would work just barely, according to her measurements. It doesn't. Here's my draw up of the plan with a screw pointing to the problem area. Each square is 6". We don't have much to work with and moving the cabs is not an option. There will not be uppers above the cabinets, just one open shelf.

How is it possible to both say your cabinets are too wide for the space and that you have wiggle room? What would you be eliminating if you moved them down the wall???

Your dilemma is as clear as the unreadable diagram. Please be verbally clearer, and post something readable.

I'm confused as well - you can " slide everything down"? What everything? But then said the cabinets can't be moved? Do you have a photo of the offending space? How much of an overlap are you talking about?

We will do our best to help!

Never use an ID to measure for cabinets. That's the work of a KD - not the same thing at all!

Can't see pencil well.

Please post a better picture & write measures on it.

Photos of current problem.

Count squares? Who's got time to count squares? That might of been what caused this. Squares without measures can cause miscounted squares and miscalculations.

Better answers will come with better information.

Many years ago when I just started out I received a call from a kitchen cabinet company asking if I could measure for cabinets at one of their client's homes. I knew even then that it wasn't a job I was trained to do and politely declined. Sometimes you just have to know your limitations.

Wow. I thought you guys were being really condescending until I reread my original post. Totally incoherent-sorry! I am way in my own head on this whole renovation.

We have a tiny 70's ranch, and we are opening up the floor plan by combining the kitchen and living room. Here is a picture of the wall/corner we are discussing, pardon the early renovation conditions. There are a couple of base cabinets with a shelf across for a visual of the future problem. Let's call this the South wall. It's 10' long. I have 9'6 inches worth of base cabinets to run along this wall. I have a 3" spice pullout to fill the extra space but it is optional. The south wall intersects the wall with the patio slider; let's call that one the east wall. The east wall has 23" of drywall from corner to door trim. This is essentially the depth allowance for the cabinets that will run the length of the south wall. Actual cabinet depth is approx 24.5 inches deep, countertop is 25". This completely covers the door trim.

I hope this makes more sense!

Wow, you really have some challenges here. You say you are planning on white cabinets. Where are you getting the cabinets from? Even a big box store will have someone on staff to plan out your kitchen and give you a dimensioned drawing. Or maybe you are re-using the ones you have and painting them white?

You mention a spice pullout on that south wall--that's not a great place for spices, which should ideally be close to the cooktop. That's just one of the problems I see here in addition to the mis-measurement. You really need to get some professional help before you continue.

Thank you Dove, that was exactly the advice I was looking for.

Have you considered replacing the slider with a smaller single door and window?
One thing I learned here is that when there’s room, it’s a great idea to pull the cabinets out a couple inches from the wall, and make a deeper counter space. Folks find that extra depth really functional. Perhaps you have budgetary issues, but this might be an opportunity to make the design better.

There is a old saying: "No good deed shall go unpunished". MIL should know this. If she's smart, she pops for the new five foot slider versus the six foot you have now, and problem solved with a couple tweaks, fillers etc. Also an independent KD to review her ENTIRE plan. Frankly, if she's an ID, she'd have helped with the layout and then hit her stop button . Then gotten a pro KD whom she should know btw...... on board.

I have "designed" a couple hundred kitchens for clients. I have done a final measure, cabinet order for NONE of them. That, is a completely specialized field, for which I have total respect, and an equal respect for a clients money...........and my OWN. You goof? You DINE on that goof.

" We knew it would be close". Live and Learn.

Notch the trim and call it a day. Whats done it's done and not much you can do now... Lesson learned.

That said, I'm not sure who ordered the cabinets you or your designer... If it's a designer it would be unprofessional on their part not to have a have a cabinet representative to come out and verify all the measurements in the field before placing a cabinet order to make sure everything is working out according to the layout. This would be picked up right away and the designer should be responsible.

If you in charge of ordering and placed the order from some online distributor or some other place who make you sign a waver they not responsible for measurements etc because they have no one to verify the layout in the field and they only go by what you give them... in this case the responsibility is on you.

Good luck

P.S This is the stationary side of the slider, so there is no need to swap sliders for a smaller one and end up patching the interior and exterior of that wall just because the counter overlapped the casing by a few inches...unless you can't live with making a notch in the casing, not to mention I'm sure you will have some sort of blinds or curtains there and that portion will be always hidden.

As I scrolled down, I was thinking the same as GN Builders posted above. If this kitchen is DIY, you'll forgive yourself much more quickly than a pro to whom you'd have paid big bucks, who made the same mistake. Just make sure there is enough filler, that the drawers will open past the door trim. I hope that will be a drawer stack, so that you don't need to worry about someone too enthusiastically opening a door and hitting the glass with the door handle.

I would probably go a different way for the solution here. This is a kitchen slider, so not a main focal point door. I would leave the cabinets where they were planned to be, switch to much simpler trim rather than the craftsman style on this door, start the trim at the counter, and paint the trim to match the wall so it blends in.

(Side point: I would actually go with simpler, narrow trim in the entire house for a 70s rancher. But that's just aesthetic.)

If you can slide the cabinets down 3"- 5", get yourself an angled filler at the end by the slider, then you should be able to keep the trim and not have to notch it either... you must test it first ...

Thank you Debbie, what would you suggest for the counter? It's still 25" deep.

If you do the angled filler where it meets the door trim, the counter would angle back as well .

Per Debbie's suggestion if you use the angled filler this will be the outcome.