I just received Cloe Cream from Walmart. It is too beige and white is problably too white. I probably need a more ivory color...

The white colorway actually has a lot of gray in it.

@Becky H - I ordered Jul 03, it was supposed to arrive Jul 14 - from walmart.com. It has not arrived and walmart has no details. It's a LOT of money and I have no idea what is going on. Will post again when I know more.

Hope you get it soon! I did pick up my lowes order so now i have 12 boxes! we might use it in the master bsthroom too but we’er not starting that remodel till next summer so dont know if ill keep all this or return after kitchen BS is done.

Awesome discussions and ideas, lovely pics.. Thank you all, I am wondering if anyone has used cloe white with Calacutta Laza?

Yes I did! cabinets are SW pure white.

Sorry I niticed i posted my laundry room cabinet before we had the bs put in. Heres another kitchen pic

Thanks Becky, looks beautiful, I was debating between verona and laza, this really helps. Thanks again for your quick response❤️

I'm losing my mind everyone! ok I picked the same CG silestone and we're doing Hale Navy for the island and some built-ins, and chantilly lace for the trim and cabinets. WHAT color should I paint my walls!? Losing it look at all the different whites. Something Benjamin Moore bc thats what my painter uses. SOS

@Maura if you are wanting to paint your walls white, then I would stick with Chantilly Lace. You can also look at BM Classic Gray which is very subtle and looks beautiful with Chantilly Lace and Hale Navy. p.s. my island is Hale Navy as well!

Chantilly lace is my vote too. The walls should not be the star of the kitchen, should blend but not be noticed. The difference in finish between lacquer satin, semi trim and pearl/eggshell for walls will be enough to add depth. If you like grey, I prefer Grey Owl with Chantilly Lace and Hale Navy, it has cooler undertones. I find Classic Gray to be too greige, especially if you have a lot of natural light. I like Grey Owl at 25-50% which is similar to Horizon with less Blue/green. Floors and light are a factor too. If you don't want to fuss, you can't go wrong with Chantilly lace, it will look great.

So we are saying Chantilly lace for both the cabinets and the walls? My floors are a mesquite color ( dark-ish) and unfortunately I cannot change that right now.

I don't want gray though

Some hue of white is the ultimate neutral. You risk a clash in undertones if you start bringing in yet another color. You can do the same color for upper cabinetry and walls but the cabinets in a tougher semi-gloss that will wear better and the walls in a satin or eggshell that won't clash yet provide depth through the different textures. Beware of the oil-based paints for white cabinetry. Benjamin Moore's Advance is known to yellow early on. The waterborne INSL-X Cabinet Coat by Benjamin Moore is a better choice for white cabinetry because it won't yellow. The semi-gloss is more durable for high-wear areas.

Chantilly Lace in Pearl for walls is a no brainer. Semi is a bit dated for a kitchen in my opinion. Don't worry, the white on white will look lovely. The consistency in color will make sure it all works together and the different sheens will make it appear slightly different and add dimension to the room so not flat. By the time you have hardware and fixtures and backsplash, you will appreciate a clean background.

Please take note that the particular paint I recommended above, Benjamin Moore's INSL-X Cabinet Coat, a non-yellowing and durable waterborne that holds its own in against the oil-based and yellowing-in-time Advance, only comes in 3 sheens and is usually only stocked in most distributor outlets in 2 sheens. I have used this myself. The semi-gloss has better wear properties for high-use areas than the matte, and the semi-gloss sheen in this paint isn't too shiny, less so than you might expect from an average semi-gloss, in my opinion. It is a very nice, smooth surface that looks great in residential lighting. If your painter is bound by Benjamin Moore's selections, that is your most technologically progressive paint to use for cabinetry. Most of the leading-edge pro painters are using two-part catalyzed waterbornes now from manufacturers like Milesi, Renner, ICA, and Sayerlack. Envirolak also is a good choice with durability testing for its one-part waterbornes on the level with Milesi. The new waterbornes of today's era won't offgas into your breathing air and won't yellow like the older, oil-based paints will.

@Silverlined I think

@Silverlined I think she's asking about paint color for the walls?

I was responding to Molly's input which seemed to indicate she advised against semi-gloss anywhere in the kitchen which would include cabinetry and walls, see above.

This wasn't a discussion about cabinetry paint. I prefer satin lacquer to anything Benjamin Moore offers for cabinetry, but that is an entirely different subject. ;) I mentioned cabinetry finish as it relates to walls. As for walls, which was what @Maura was sending SOS asking for advice on, you are correct that my preference is definitely not to use semi-gloss in kitchen. I don't agree with you that it isn't shiny. To my eye, it is way too shinny and detracts from other jewelry of the kitchen that (in most designs) you want to have some level shine (tile, hardware, faucet, light fixtures, etc). I have used every type of BM, in every finish. BM paint is top quality and there is plenty of durability and easy cleaning without needing to use the higher sheen. Light reflecting off the walls doesn't feel current and it shows every little drywall imperfection. True, BM is self leveling if you are using something better than Ben entry level paint, but still not totally forgiving. You can use matte in a bathroom these days with the right type of paint. As I mentioned, I like (Regal) Pearl (or Aura Satin works but is a bit pricier) in the kitchen. They are both a step up from eggshell but not as shinny as semi. I would not like the lack of contrast between walls and cabinetry and trim (which I assume will be semi). For me, white on white works well when the walls are more matte and a step down and appear slightly warmer/softer/less "white" due to lack of light reflection. Otherwise, there is no depth or contrast. All this said, use what you like. It is your kitchen and you need to love it. My preferences are irrelevant. But whatever sheen you decide, Chantilly Lace on the walls will look just right.

I specifically indicated that the semi-gloss of INSL-X Cabinet Coat by Benjamin Moore has a low sheen to it relative to whatever one's alternate experiences with other semi-gloss coatings might be. No other paint but INSL-X Cabinet Coat was included in that description nor meant to be. I have used this paint for trim work, chosen after much research, and have been very happy with it, as the semi-gloss dries down to a moderate sheen. Other reviewers have stated that the matte version of INSL-X Cabinet Coat is not as durable for cabinetry and trim and other high-traffic applications. INSL-X is only usually stocked by distributors in those 2 sheens. At the further risk of being redundant, I will say again that the traditional oil-based paints used for cabinetry and trim work including Banjamin Moore's Advance have a history of yellowing in time, usually beginning within 3 years (and your painter may try to convince you otherwise, but look up reviews for yourself). For long-term wear of white and light paints, the newer formulations of durable waterbornes from top brands will maintain their colors longer with little to no yellowing. Well formulated waterbornes, particularly two-part, post catalyzed conversion varnishes are the future of cabinetry and trim coatings in regard to long-term color longevity and low VOC health concerns related to offgassing into interior residences. Sorry to get so off topic on this tile thread. I'm always looking to offer someone the option to avoid heartache down the road from a cabinetry refresh that leads to premature finish failure.

One more comment on another poster's claims above, the satin sheen of Benjamin Moore's Aura is fairly reflective for walls. Many people may find it a bit too reflective for their tastes for wall applications. However, Aura is much more moisture resistant than the cheaper Regal, so it is worth investing in the Aura for kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas prone to moisture in the atmosphere. If the kitchen walls are located where they may be subject to splatters and need regular cleaning, the satin sheen will be easier to maintain over time. A gallon of Aura will go a very long way. Two coats is all you should need at most, and most kitchen walls wouldn't require near a gallon even with two coats.

@Aglitter I did not state that Aura satin is reflective. In fact, I said that it is a good option, but pricier. Regal pearl works just as well from my experience, but both are great choices. I opt for Aura in a bathroom always, but in kitchen don't have same levels of moisture nor as frequent of cleaning in painted areas. Splatters are typically on tiled backsplash. I only stated that semi-gloss is not a great option for kitchen walls.

I used Benjamin Moore's Aura satin sheen in a bedroom on the walls and was initially disappointed at how shiny it seemed, reflecting a fair amount of light compared to what I had envisioned for a wall application. I grew accustomed to it eventually but in retrospect would have opted for a duller sheen. I'll be using Aura satin sheen again on my kitchen walls soon but prefer the ease of cleaning the satin will give me there as my backsplash is a short stone piece with large sections of wall open to cooking areas, and I don't mind the light reflection in the kitchen. Aura is a great paint, but many Benjamin Moore distributors at least in my area stock way more Regal as well as push it to their customers than they do the Aura. I think that is a more recent development in terms of downplaying the Aura from what one salesperson told me, at least in my area. I don't know if that relates to cost or some other factor. At one point I had to travel to a couple of different stores to get the Aura I needed because not every store even regularly stocked it in all the different quantities.

Hi @Molly H Is it possible to share a closer look pic of your Cloe backsplash. I've installed mine but some areas seem to be crooked.

Hi @Cooking in the Kitchen. We are away until end of the week. I think I have some older progress photos on my computer prior to touch ups and trim, however. I can post in an hour or so. What do you mean by crooked? Our home is 120 years old, so the walls aren't plumb. If your walls aren't straight, your tile won't be either. Some adjustments/cheating can be achieved with thinset, but not all. Zelliage tile is not meant to be perfect, which is part of the reason why I chose the style. It tends to be more forgiving with imperfections in the wall and look intentional. Cloe is not rectified tile, it will never be 100% precise and uniform. The tile is not perfectly square and the grout lines will be slightly uneven if you look very close. If this is the "crooked" you are concerned about, try to let it go. In time, and once kitchen is complete, you won't notice. It is hard not to get caught in the weeds and obsess over every little detail when you are in it. I am sure it looks great!

Here are some old progress photos of part of the kitchen. We have a ton of natural light and it is impossible to get color to photograph accurately.

I pulled (eliminated) all the darkest grey and creamiest white Cloe tile from the kitchen project and ended up using them in the downstairs laundry. It wasn't my original plan, but I loved how the kitchen backsplash looked and the remaining colors happen to tie everything together in the laundry room. Including photo since it is a little closer up than kitchen photos I had on hand.

Hi @Molly H. Thanks for your reply. I love imperfection that's why I chose Cloe tiles. The other areas of my backsplash look stunning even though they aren't perfectly lined up. Here's the pic of the area that seems to be crooked.

@Molly H. Thanks for sharing the pics. Your kitchen transformation looks awesome. I love it.

@Cooking in the Kitchen Did you install yourself? Are you willing to rip it off and start over? Did you ask your installer what happened? I have no idea what sort of wall you are dealing with, but just from the photo, I'd say that some extra thinset behind a few tiles would have achieved a more flush appearance. I have some areas that have similar issue, (our exterior walls are wonky) but more subtle. If the wall was really bad to start, it may be the best you can do. Can you learn to live with it? I think once you get everything else finished and it is a functional, working kitchen, it will bother you less.

@Molly H. My contractor and the installer installed the tiles. They removed about 7 tiles and made the areas look much nicer immediately. Unfortunately, they refused to do more, kinda blame me for choosing "that kind" of tile (Cloe). My wall is pretty flat. I showed the pics to 3 agents at Bedrosian and they told me the tiles have uneven edges but shouldn't look like that. I invited my neighbor to check out my new kitchen. She was quite impressed with my kitchen at first but as soon as she looked at my backsplash she quickly pin-pointed the crooked areas even when I wasn't telling/asking her about it.

@Cooking in the Kitchen Ugh. Sorry! Nothing about the tile is to blame for that issue. Bedrosians is correct. The backsides are perfectly flat, machine made. The edges are a bit wavy which means grout lines won't be perfect. Only a wall that is not plumb or a bad install with uneven thinset application would cause that. If your wall is plumb it should be perfectly flat. If you have a new or newish house unless the framing or drywall was off, your walls should be fairly straight to be able to handle this tile with a better finished look. This sounds like a contractor passing the blame, unfortunately and not taking responsibility. Your contractor is right that is not the easiest tile install because of the color variation and edges and may simply be above installers skill level. I still think that in time it won't irritate you every time you pass by. If contractor is refusing to fix it, you need to decide if worth it to you to hire someone else to reinstall if that is within budget.

@Molly H. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I agree with all of your points. I think I am going to live with it and move on.

@Cooking in the Kitchen It is so hard to invest so much money, time and energy into a project and not get hung up on every little detail. But, even with a million dollar budget and the best of trades, things go wrong - nothing is ever perfect. I had to recalibrate my expectations so many times over 18 months of construction. Overall, I am sure your kitchen is lovely. Enjoy it! I spent months being irritated about lots of little things that seem off to my crazy OCD eye. But, after living in the space for several months, I notice it all less and less each day. Best -M

I have the chloe tile too! Theres 1 very bright white tile thst my eye was drawn to every time I looked at that wall. Now that I have items on my counters I dont even see it anymore! My tile guy is awsome!

@Becky H Your kitchen looks beautiful, especially the island. I think it's nicely done.

Thank you!

@Becky H, your kitchen looks awesome! I am using the Chloe white tile in my hallway and I love it. Do you know what grout you used?

Mapei Avalanche is the whitest of the whites of that brand if that's the look you want. Chloe tile can also be dry stacked. If it is a wall application not exposed to water you can usually get away with unsanded grout. [Edit: I see now this is a shower installation, so I would recommend standard grout for water-exposed areas.]

Thank you! I was thinking 00 white, but honestly can’t see much of a difference between the two. The Chloe white is for the shower wall tile, the small grey hex for the shower floor and the big hex for the bathroom floor.

Any suggestions for the shower floor grout? I’m guessing a grey but I’m awful at this stuff.

@liz tepezano I used bright white from Home Depot

Thank you!

@liz tepezano Same here - bright white, Custom brand with Cloe white tile. Photos above in thread. I have similar hex floors in our primary bath and used Rolling Fog, Custom brand, which is a light warm grey. That color was not available a Home Depot, so would need to go to a tile shop or do special order on Home Depot online. It is a beautiful color shade that doesn't have contrast to be distracting, but is easier to keep clean.

@mollyh I love the pencil tile edging your
Cloe tile. I don’t think it is the Cloe jolly because of the length. Can you share what you used?

Hi @jbaker694 It is the matching Cloe jolly trim, sold with tile. They are about 7.75" or the height of 3 tiles, (but you want to do them offset and not matched up with grout line, if that makes sense..) The Bedrosians warehouse let me handpick the trim pieces as they vary in shade, just like the 8 shades found in tile, so I could have a mix that worked for my application. I eliminated some tiles for less contrast so it was important in my case that the trim not be in a color I didn't have in the tile. I would suggest you hand select if you have that option and are not installing as is, out of the box. Otherwise, they are pricey, so you don't want too much waste and you may end up with shades that pull focus next to the tiles you have on edges.

@mollyh thank you so much for your quick response! I have been searching all
Over to see if the white was just solid or varied like the tile. I wasn’t sure if it was worth the extra money if they were solid white since I can get that locally. Unfortunately I am not close to a store and will be ordering online so I won’t be able to hand pick but I am hopeful it will work out. It will be framing out an inset/recessed window so hopefully it will just pick up the same variation in the tiles. Thank you!

@jbaker694 I am sure you will get variation and it will look lovely. they will probably let you exchange it if it doesn't work and shipping will be inexpensive since they are small. it is def not white, same glaze and in diffferent shades of white-grey like the tile. happy to help. good luck.

@liz tepezano - I am wondering which Mapei grout you decided to use - white or avalanche? Also, did you use Mapei warm gray for your floor or did you select a darker gray? Would love to see a finished version of your bathroom!

@bethann I realize this thread is from 2+ yrs ago, and I'm loving all the comments, but I haven't landed on one that answers your initial question. I'm sure it's in there somewhere! What did you determine? Are the Cloe tiles the same regardless of where you buy them?

@mtwren - Short answer: the Cloe tiles sold through other retailers are the same as ones purchased directly from Bedrosian. I have confirmed this with Bedrosian.

Long Answer + added tips: I ordered some Cloe tiles from Lowes - that way I could see what an entire box looked like vs. a few sample tiles. I also ordered all the boxes I would need in order to have the same lot # + when I ordered mine, the Cloe White tiles were constantly selling out - I didn’t want to have to worry about availability if I decided I liked the tile. It made more sense to order from Lowes because of free shipping + no restocking fees - and the boxes could be returned at an actual Lowes store = no return shipping fee either. I also ordered extra boxes - just in case I needed them - because you can return whatever you don’t use within 90 days.

I also ordered some in a different color through Walmart (again, free shipping + no restocking fees) - because Walmart had the the best price (at that time) + Lowes didn’t have this color in stock. These boxes were shipped directly from Bedrosian to me - not from Walmart.

IMPORTANT - You need to pay attention when purchasing items online from Walmart - because not all items from third party sellers have the same 90 day return policy + only certain third party items can be returned directly at a Walmart store (some have to be shipped back = shipping fees).

FYI - Equipe Ceramicas actually manufactures the Cloe tiles for Bedrosian (and for some other retailers). The Artisan line tiles sold by Equipe are the same as Bedrosian’s Cloe tiles (they even use some of the same stock photos for advertising - colors might have different names =for example, Equipe Artisan Aqua = Bedrosian Cloe Baby Blue).

Ivy Hill also sells some tiles that are manufactured by Equipe - I think Kingston is the same as Cloe

.

Sometimes it’s hard to tell because of the way different retailers will list the size of the tile. For example, Cloe tiles are listed as 2.5” x 8” and Ivy Hill Kingston tiles are listed as 3”x 8”. However those are the nominal sizes - the tiles are actually 2.55 x 7.87 (Ivy Hill lists the actual size as 2.56” x 7.87”).

Photos of Ivy Hill Kingston tiles:

Kingston are sold in a half carton size (5.38 sq ft instead of 10.76 sq ft) - nice if you only need 1-2 more sf of tile - because you only have to buy an extra 3-4 sf of tile vs. 8-9 sf. The prices will vary - sometimes Cloe is more expensive, sometimes Kingston is - same with the different retailers. So, it’s nice to be able to have different options in order to save some money! Amazon is even selling Cloe tiles now!

IMPORTANT: When you open a box of the tiles and pull a stack out - they will look different than in the photos being posted - they appear to have less color variation (tiles are V4 = lots of variation). However, once you pull out more tiles and take a photo of them, you will see the variation.

Also, when they are installed vertically (instead of horizontally on a table or countertop with an overhead light shining down on them), you will see the variation.

The color grout you use will either highlight the variation more or cause them to blend more. The grout color + other surrounding materials (colors of countertop and cabinets, for example) will also affect whether they pull more gray or cream.

There will be slight differences in shades also based upon lot # (same as other tiles) - it’s best to mix all of your boxes together before installing them - even if they all have the same lot # (which they should have the same # but sometimes a box from a different lot # may be included in your order - especially if from a big box store).