Not sure why the pictures didn't attach. I'll try again.

“Repair” is merely temporary in any wet area. It’s just an epoxy. It will need to be redone, over and over. Take the replacement.

Good point samba! I should just go ahead and do that. I'd still prefer to just try to repair this for now if anyone has a kit they used and liked?

Something doesn't add up here. We had porcelain enamel sinks when I was a kid, and I don't remember them being that fragile. Seems impractical. I think I'll stick with my boring stainless steel sink.

DavidR, well stainless steel is definitely a safer option, as would a top mount sink since replacement is less of an issue, but that isn't all I was going for. More durability is why I chose a cast iron sink over a less expensive fireclay sink, as I figured it would be more durable. I am still mystified by this scratch that appeared in what is essentially the most protected area of this sink as its covered 99% of the time.

enamel sinks a long time ago had lead in the glaze. They were a lot tougher.

I have a kohler enamel sink with the wire grate on the bottom. So rarely does anything touch the bottom other than random utensils that once in a while that slip through. So there are no pots and pans rubbing around on the bottom.

That being said, the bottom of the sink is all scratched up for some reason.

They cover the cost of the sink. You will pay for the labor of replacing it. I don’t see the point of replacing a failed enameled cast iron sink with another enameled cast iron sink. Consider replacing what you’ve got with a quality stainless steel sink. It will outlast you.

This happens a lot. Try using the search feature at the top of the page. Type in “enameled cast iron sink“ and the words “fail” or “crack”. You will see you are in the company of many, many other houzzers. Good luck with the fix.

You don't pull the countertop to replace the sink, you tap off the cabinet front. You may have to cut the shelf that supports the sink. With all the mechanical fasteners holding the sink removed, span the sink cutout with a 2x4 with a hole drilled in the center. Drop a pipe clamp through the hole and through the sink drain, put a small plywood stopper over the bar at the drain and slide the bar clamp end on. Leave it loose. Drive a stiff scraper between the stone bottom and the sink flange until the sink drops onto the clamp. Pull the clamp and sink out the cabinet front. Do everything in reverse to install the new sink. 4 hours or so.

Your 2x will obviously span left to right, but you get the idea.

I can’t help but notice they chose a stainless steel sink the second time around.... Beautiful work Joe.

If that’s a Kohler Whitehaven and if the cabinet cutout template was used, I believe you should be able to slide the sink out after cutting through the silicon. This also probably depends on your counter; I can’t tell from pics. At any rate, you might as well take the replacement sink before the warrantee runs out, no matter when/if you plan to install it.

"I believe you should be able to slide the sink out after cutting through the silicon."

Considerably more than silicone holding that sink in, at least there had better be.

Millworkman, unless the cabinet is bigger than it needed to be, the sides and front of the cabinet hold that particular sink (if it is in fact a Whitehaven). The sink has lips/edges that keep it up. There’s no way it could fall through.

If the cabinet sides are holding the sink up, they've got to go. Not a big deal to put them back. That sink's coming out the bottom/front, I promise.

Well the trim on the front of the sink won't let it slide down and the fact that the sink is deeper than the apron means it wouldn't slide forward without destroying the cabinet front. However it is in an island, it would be easiest to remove the countertop and pull it out. Of course that means pulling out the garbage disposal and faucet. Its all doable even by us (with some additional muscle for moving the countertop) just not worth it to us yet unless it gets much worse.

I found a light cured acrylic surface repair kit. (It can be used on porcelain, ceramic, marble but its acrylic.) Its worth it to me to try this first especially because that's a spot that's usually covered. DH did agree with you all that we should probably go ahead and get the replacement, but we're not in a hurry to switch it out yet. We've still got lots of work ahead of us in this kitchen yet.

Here's a picture of the front of the island right after the countertop went on.

@Forever now did the repair hold up for you? Can you share the repair kit used if it worked well? Our sink has major cracks after just a month from install!

Unfortunately, it just didn’t look good, it looked like it was painted over. i wiped it off before it could dry. We just got the replacement sink in warranty. Have you called the manufacturer? It really shouldn’t be cracking on you after a month! So it’s either a fault with the sink or the installer.

"Well the trim on the front of the sink won't let it slide down and the fact that the sink is deeper than the apron means it wouldn't slide forward without destroying the cabinet front. However it is in an island, it would be easiest to remove the countertop and pull it out."

Fortunately, none of this is true.

The cabinet front is not destroyed when it is tapped off. It re-installs nicely after the sink is pulled and the new sink reinstalled without removing the top which is risky and unnecessary.

I've literally done this over a thousand times.