Ikea kitchen / the peninsula is 15" deep, how to switch from 24?

3 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

As I didn´t find any discussion about this, I will ask for help. We will have a peninsula which we want to be not wider than 27" and have a seating area. So the 24" cabinets along the wall will need to become 15" on the peninsula (+ 12" of the countertop for the overhang on the outside (not the kitchen side)). What is the best way to do it? Here is our plan.

Ikea doesn't have corner cabinets for that, right?

Thank you in advance.

Featured Answer

mama goose_gw zn6OH

3 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

I wouldn't take the time and trouble to convert a base cabinet to a blind corner--I'd void the corner and use a drawer base for more convenient storage. It will be much easier to pull out a deep drawer, than get on your knees to pull something out of a blind corner.

I asked about the stub wall because I wanted to get an idea of how you plan to make the overhang connect with the wall. Will the overhang extend to be flush with the outside of the wall? Don't forget that you'ill need a back panel for the peninsula cabinets (3/4"?), and you will also have a front overhang to match the other cabinet overhangs--usually 1 1/4". Therefor, if the whole depth of the peninsula top is 27" max, your overhang might be only 10" deep, unless you can extend it past the stub wall.

You'll need wall cleats/ledgers to support the counter top over the voided corner (yellow bars). I would use the same back panel material to cover the stub wall front, which will also support the countertop--or just overlap the back panel material far enough to nail it into the wall stud. If you want it flush with the stub wall end, you could also use a vertical ledger to nail the trim to, then the trim could be painted the dame color as the wall. All that is cosmetic, and can be decided later.

With only 10" of seating overhang, you might not need additional supports, depending on the counter material, but that is something to discuss with the counter fabricators. Red bars are the filler pieces I mentioned earlier. Peninsula cabinets can be affixed to the floor with floor cleats.

You could use the blind upper hack for the 15" cabinet, keeping in mind that you need filler space for the door to open--if the extra storage would be worth it:

Or, you could figure out a hinge for the back panel, and keep your valuables in the hidden vault. ;)

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Comments (7)

mama goose_gw zn6OH
3 years ago
You'll need a couple of inches on each side of the corner, for filler,
to allow the doors/drawers to bypass the hardware on the perpendicular
side. Normally you'd use a corner susan, or a 27" wide base cabinet on
the end, accessed from the overhang side, but it looks as if you have an
18" stub wall there. Is that a full-height wall or a pony wall?
Olga O thanked mama goose_gw zn6OH
Olga O
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Thank you, mama goose_gw. It is a full height wall. There is a wall right now that we are taking down. We will leave 18" to make it symmetrical with the other side. The overhang is on the outside, not the kitchen side.
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mcguirks
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
I have seen some Ikea hacks making blind cabinets for this purpose. The specific hack I'm thinking of uses uppers as an example, but could be done with lowers and filler. I thought about doing this when designing my awkward laundry room. Here is the link from the houzz discussion: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4113207/ikea-blind-corner-hack-with-photos
Olga O thanked mcguirks
Olga O
Original Author
3 years ago
Yes. Thank you! Sound pretty easy.
Olga O
Original Author
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Thank you, mama_goose, for your time and help! We actually, think that it would be better to get rid of that 18" wall. What is your opinion? To keep the wall or not? The idea was to have the countertop on the peninsula not too wide, definitely with 15" cabinets not 24". So, the width of 27" is approximate. Thanks again. I will keep all this in mind.
vsalzmann
3 years ago
So I have almost the same setup, and what I am doing is putting the 38” corner cabinet in the corner, and then two 15” deep, 21 or 24” wide drawer stacks next to it. The empty space behind my 15” deep cabinets becomes the kneehole for two bar seats. My feeling is that no one like sitting at the bar right up against a wall anyway, and then my countertop can be the standard width and just waterfall to the floor. This way I also don’t lose any storage space in the corner.