I can't see any of your pictures. . .

That's Amazing!
How much time between picture one and the last one?
Is this hypertufa or another mix?
Is the plywood removed?
How does it get to the site and installed? How heavy?
Crane? Forklift?

no pix: "The GeoCities web site you were trying to view has temporarily exceeded its data transfer limit. Please try again later." That's a first I can remedy that.

diamond lathe, rebar, pencil rod
{{gwi:69523}}

more of the same
{{gwi:69524}}
soon to be slab edge
{{gwi:69525}}
first coat of mix
{{gwi:69526}}
yours truly; mix might normally be sprayed on; location ruled this out as an option
{{gwi:69527}}
working from model
{{gwi:69528}}
sculpting
{{gwi:69529}}
more of the same
{{gwi:69530}}
it's painted
{{gwi:69531}}
ta-da!
{{gwi:69532}}

linnea: the dates on the pics range from the 19 June to the 28 June. Not hypertufa; I'm adding a link below. Another GW thread. Another local (Vancouver) fellow describing the same technique; he's not related to this project, but the process is pretty much the same. Give or take the fly ash; I didn't see any fly ash. The plywood is fibre-glassed to provide a water-proof backing to contain the waterfall section. This doesn't need shipping anywhere because it's been built in it's intended site a restaurant.

One comment that I can make is that the technique involved is reasonably straight-forward. Where this guy begins to leave the pack behind is in the sculpting department, and in his insistence on "anatomically correct" rock form. The pictures don't quite do it justice; the wall really does look like so many of the genuine articles that I've stared at up and down the coast here.

same artist:
{{gwi:69533}}

cheers,

Sean

Here is a link that might be useful: same technique

Sean,
That is really wonderful. What type paints are you using, and are you airbrushing it on?
I think the texture is so nice. Thank you for sharing the pics. And isn't great how quick it all really goes on, even without a sprayer (gunite type). In a couple of the pics it appears that the plywood is several inches away from the lath. Is the rebar and pencil rod attached to the plywood somehow? Will the water piping be placed behind the lath/mix area? Truly wonderful.
Dena

Hi Dena,

yep pretty wonderful opportunity. I've certainly been able to scratch that cement itch alright. If this doesn't get it out of my system ..

Don't forget that I'm only the gopher in this scenario. But as for the painting (which I mostly missed), it's applied with hand pump sprayers. Garden variety. The thread that I linked to above has some suggestions. In our case the wall was first hit with selective splashes of dilute acid concrete stain. The paint is just latex I think, diluted about three to one with water. It's spattered on, small drops , for this particular finish. This was indoors, but typically this would be sealed.

The overall texture is the result of a large silicone rubber 'skin'. That and a wet sea-sponge. The sea sponge works a charm.

The black thing in the earlier pics is a pipe which wound up behind the wall'o'cement.

The lathe, ribbing was attached to the wall.

The waterfall consists of a trough on top, and a catch-basin at the bottom. The lip of the upper trough was leveled so that the water will flow out nicely. Not seen it in action.

happy casting!

Sean

There is some major league talent involved in this project!
Laura

Sean,
Those rubber skins are very cool. I have looked at samples at a place I like to go. Pricey and seemingly ever lasting. My brother inlaw had a path done using the skins and dry colorant, then sprayed with stain, realistic slate in almost an instant. There are several highway and street sound barriers that have gone up in our surrounding area that employ large rubber skins that are leaves, trees, tree bark, and my recent favorite is a rocky beach scene with sand dollars, sea stars and other things that I have not gotten close enough to see. I just want the sample skins.....
Thanks for the info about the stains, I am finding them really interesting to work with, as one color of stain can offer so many variations dependent on the reaction with the concrete. The sponge technique and troweling is very important in how the realistic look comes out.
Thank you again for sharing so much information.
Dena

Good point about the stains. The fresher (wetter) concrete was noticeably different (darker) in the way that it took the stain, and I was told that if the concrete has been under a good deal of rain the staining will be negligible. Interesting.

Hi StrawDog,
wonder if you can tell us how many layers or coats of mud in the rock in this project?
And what tools were used to carve the cracks and fissures?
Sea sponge and silicone skin work before the carving of cracks, or after?
In the final face work, just add onto the previous day's work, and blend in?
Thanks for the posting, pics, and help,
Slate

Slate,

two layers, a base and a finish

the large flakes and slabs that come off the wall are formed by structure in the underlying metal and mesh. All the fissures, cracks, and in fact all the sculpting, was done with a garden variety trowel.

sponge was generally last; the hardened cement was also roughened and scraped to get things looking good

one days work was blended in to the next; the leading edge given a good soaking

which is what I'm off to do; give my garden plot a good soaking

cheers,

Sean

Hey Dawg --- That is some terriffic looking work! I have to agree with some of the other posters...what separates it is the quality of the sculpting. I see so much fake rock that mostly excels at nothing but looking fake. It's great to see work by someone who's actually taken the time to study what rock types should look like. And while the rubber molds taken from real rock are fine for some commercial applications, they can never adapt to the situation the way sculpting from scratch can. Outstanding work my friend. Do you have a website or album of more of it anywhere?

Tango

Hi Tango,

the fellows name is Peter Heiss. Googling "Peter Heiss", with the quotes, will get you some results. I'm hesitant to break some kind of rule, but as I say if you do a search you'll get something.

All the other pictures that I have right now are pretty lacklustre and just duplicate the ones above. For now.

btw, I'd like to take the opportunity to compliment you on the faux bois work that you've posted pictures of. I have three of them printed out over here that I've been showing around; different joints. Outrageous!

cheers,

Sean

That is amazing..The sculpting is superb...Thanks for sharing the pictures..Deb

Wow, what a great experience. I doubt it helped to "get it out of your system." You're probably more addicted than ever now. I'm always curious if doing this professionally mandates a loss in quality, since all the detailing can really suck up time. Peter obviously has the detail figured out. It's great to see people doing what they love and making money at it. Thanks for sharing the details and insight!!

Justin

Dawg -- Thank you. I appreciate the kind words. I will have a website up shortly that will have some in-depth Faux Bois tutorials if you are interested. Would love to post more here, but the copyright situation regarding images prevents it.

And thank you too for the info on Mr. Heiss. That is one very talented chap.

All My Best --- Tango

Hi Straw dog,
I know it's stretching it, but, do you remember the mixes for the two layers?
Then, is it , silicone skin, carve cracks, sea-sponge, in that order?
Thanks again for your input,
Slate

Slate,
material was mixed offsite; it was sand, portland, silica fume, and water. I don't have any proportions.

I wouldn't sweat too much over an order for these things. They were just a means to an end. ie if the crack looks just fine, leave it, if the crack looks too rough, dab it with a sponge. The process was kind of dynamic, with revisions being made periodically after stepping back and viewing the wall. The sponge and the skin played similar roles but with different scales.

Mainly though, I related here what I saw in helping, but I don't feel entirely comfortable answering questions; I'm hardly a qualified source on this topic, and I'm not looking to present myself that way.

That was my disclaimer. I would start tinkering around, working small, and see how things work for you.

good luck,

s_d

Straw dog,
no worries about the disclaimer! Thanks again for the info you shared and the pics.
Yep, been playing around in the mud, and certainly found the more I practice, the better it gets.
Thanks Dog,
Slate

Its been a while since I piped in and commented in this forum, mostly lurking lateley. But this is awesome! Thanks for the pictures, Straw-dog.

David

Straw dog, just what I was looking for!! Thanks