Here's the link that contained tips from several successful growers.
K

Here is a link that might be useful: Growers of Worsleya

Hi, I haven't been on a garden site in maybe 2 years, but was killing time and saw this and perhaps I can provide some info. I will start by saying that I have flowered 6 different unique Worsleya plants and you can see many of my pics on this forum from a couple of years ago. I have had mine set seed 3 separate times. I have perhaps 40 seedling growing now that are a year old, around 10 that are 3 years old (I got rid of the rest) and I have a very large seed pod ripening right now. While this does not make me an expert, it does mean I have some idea of how to successfully grow these wonderful plants. I live outside Pittsburgh if that means anything.

1: Once it is growing they want absolutely as much light as you can give themâ¦..mine are in full sun outside during the summer and are still outside during the day now as they do not mind 40's at all.

1a: During the winter they grow under very right grow lights so they continue to get as much light as I can give them. In front of a window is not enough in my experience.

2: They like a TON of fertilizerâ¦..mine get fertilized every week during the summer. Less often during the winter because I am lazy.

3: They do not rot easily if they are planted correctly. During the summer mine get watered every single day.

4: My mature plants are potted in pure volcanic cinder that I get shipped in from Hawaii.

5: I plant my seeds in pure high-quality sphagnum moss, put a baggie over them and put them on a heat mat. They stay on the heat mat until they go outside for the first time.

6: When they get big enough I plan to transfer mine to pure volcanic cinder similar to my large plants.

7: When in peat repot every year as the peat sours in my environment. My large plants stay in their pots for years without being repotted. I have rather large, flowering plants in 8" (20cm) diameter pots. Next summer I plan to put these in 12" (30cm) pots as they are falling over they are so large.

8: Remember, Worsleya do not go dormant. If they lose all their leaves once they are growing they are deadâ¦..yours is not of course, because you bought one that was apparently not shipped well. When I ship my small seedlings like you purchased I keep them in their pots so they suffer no loss when they arrive.

9: If I can answer any other questions I will try, but I can not guarantee I will check on here again. I no longer use my e-mail addy that is listed on this site either so will not see a personal message.

These plants are AWESOME so I wish you well with it :o)

Best of luck, Dan

Dan...please check your email as I had sent you an email about growing a seed....
Kristi

Hi Kristi, That is basically a defunct e-mail addy that I have not used in perhaps 2 years so I can not see whatever you might have sent. The seed are very, very easy to germinate and grow if you just try them they way I suggest. I get at least 90% germination. Now, mind you, after a year there are some really strong seedlings and then maybe 10-20% that are weak enough I toss them to free up room. The idea that these plants are tough to grow is an old rumor. The key to growing them was solved by the growers in OZ and South Africa awhile ago and we can all now have success. Sorry I can not get your message, Dan

I didn't want to post this request on the list, but I will so you can either reply to me or via my email on "my page".

I bought a single seed from Oz and it's just sitting there. Not plumping up at all. I would be interested in buying seeds or a seedling from you. You know that I have admired your plants for years and I feel like I am finally equipped to try and grow one.

BTW, my bulbs from So. Africa are doing good...no blooms but lots of growth.

Thanks!!
Kristi

Hi Kristi,
My Worsleya is doing very well. I grow it in the window of the kitchen over the sink. I water it daily and fertilize it twice a week. It is growing a new leaf. I am also growing two Pamianthe peruviana the same way and they are also doinf well. I use clay balls mixed with perlite as a growing media. I just planted a Hippeastrum calyptratum in the same mix as I had problems growing it in my usual potting mix.
Maida

Hello everyone. Thank you all so much for helping me with this plant. I'm sorry and I didn't mean to chastise anyone. I

have bought 4 plants now: one fully grown, the one in the picture, which still has the one leaf, but it's larger it least, another small about 9 month old one, and one that isn't looking all that well at the moment, but it hasn't died so keep your fingers crossed.
The one in the picture and the 9 month old ones are in my south eastern facing window. I put the not so good looking one in my eastern window, and when the sun moves, I put it with the others. When the sun has moved from both windows, I put it back in the eastern window. The reason I put it in the eastern window is because I have a grow lamp set up there. It's a LED lamp with blue, red, and orange lights. My hippeasturms grow crazy under it so I thought I'd try it.

The fully grown one is in my greenhouse, but I'm thinking I maybe should take it out. It get's pretty humid and wet in there. I've only watered it once because of that, and I've had it about a week. I have it in a mixture of abut 10% Miracle Gro garden soil, 40% orchid potting mix, and 50% perlite, with a some lava rock thrown into the mixture.

The one in the picture above just wouldn't root no matter what. It hasn't died, so I tried putting it in 80% perlite and 20% garden soil. I'm thinking that the previous mixture must have been to loose for the roots to latch onto before. It has the one leaf like I said before, but it's growing well.

I want to thank you Dan for all your information. I'm focusing mainly on the fully grown one because it was $240. I should probably water it tomorrow. I try to water it only when the soil is dryish. The pot it's in only has lava rocks in the bottom for drainage, but it's also deep (about 12 inches.) Where do you get the volcanic cinder from?

Thanks everyone again.

P.S. I'm a very experienced gardener. I'm 37 and I've been gardening since I was in Kindergarten, and I've taken a few botany and horticulture classes in college.

Dan,
I swear the one on the right has put out 2 new leaves and really gotten much larger in just 1 month since I got them from you. The smaller one has put out 1 leaf but is doing well. Fork is to provide scale!

Rob, I'm glad you connected with Dan. (Or... Dan, thank you for reaching out to Rob). This was the intent of my very first response on this thread!!
K

This post was edited by kaboehm on Tue, Dec 9, 14 at 20:47

Hi K, I think if you grow them upright instead of laying them down they will grow even better!! Seriously though, they seem to be doing great under your able hands :o) Dan

Heck Dan....laying them on their side is what I thought I was supposed to do. I read not to turn them....so I just laid it over on its side....NOT!! Dang iPhone camera!! Looked fine on the camera! I fixed the post so that you don't have to bend your head sideways to look at the photo!!

But seriously...is this fast growth normal!?
;-)
K

Hi K, Yeah, my better ones push new leaves constantlyâ¦..when one gets long you will immediately see a new one in the middle of the plant coming out and then the old ones will yellow and die back. Sometimes you get a dud that doesn't grow well but I'd never send one of those out to another grower. Keep up the good growing :o) Dan

Hello again. I looked at my first Worsleya and it seems to be growing. No new roots, but it has a new leaf. I'm just going to leave it alone. Thanks again for more advice. I honestly didn't expect anyone to post anything here. Here is a picture of my larger one. I've only had it a week. It seems to be doing ok where it is. I have a fluorescent bulb in the greenhouse with it, and I leave it on pretty much all night.

By the way, Dave, if you're interested in selling or trading for some of those bulbs, I'm still interested in buying them. You see, I'm actually running a breeding experiment. My goal is to cross a hippeastrum with the Worsleya in order to get a blue or lavender colored hippeastrum. I have a tremendous collection of hippeastrums. In no particular order, I have orange sovereign, santiago, tres chic, apricot parfait, black pearl, united nations, desire, Sidney, minerva, red lion, red knight, picotee, red ballerina, mini pink ballerina, bright star, Christmas star, rilona, reticulatum, apple blossom, misty, white, rose, a white one with reddish-pink stripes, stargazer, lagoon, possibly at johnsonii, a yellow one from Japan, lemon lime, lemon sorbet, blushing bride, butterfly, and one that's like peppermint colored. I have a few others I don't know the name of, and they haven't bloomed so I don't remember what they looked like when I bought them. I also made a few hopeful crosses of lemon lime/picotee, lagoon/desire, lagoon/picotee, red/picotee, lemon lime/lagoon, red/butterfly/, misty/butterfly, and a few others I can't think of.

I'm actually collecting family members of the amaryllis. I have a griffinia, eithia, scadoxus cyrtanthiflorus, scadoxus nutans, Ismene, Pamianthe peruviana, Cryptostephanus vansonii, several clivia, proiphys, two different phaedranassa, cyrtanthus obliquus, cyrtanthus falcatus (in the mail still,) crinodonna, belladonna pink and white, crinums, two kinds of habranthus, zephythranthus, and probably more I can't think of. My goal, of course, CROSSING CROSSING CROSSING!! I'm a bit of a mad scientist.

Here is a picture of two of the other Worsleyas I have. The one on the left is the 9 month old one, and the one on the right is the first on I got. One major leaf, but I just spotted another one growing. I was trying to grow it in the medium that the one on the right is in at first. When I got the one on the left, it didn't really have any leaves, just one starting to come out.

Lastly, here is the one that isn't doing the best at the moment. I, unfortunately last night, ended up pulling it up. It wasn't doing well and it was loose in the soil. I tugged it a little and it came up. It had roots at first, but when I pulled it up, it didn't have any. Keep your fingers crossed for this one. I have it in the window. I just took it out to get a good picture of it as I have about 20 other things in that window.

Hey RobNelms, I truly am a mad (hopefully not too mad) scientist by day, but I never hybridize my plants by night. I am a believer in the notion that it is really tough to improve on the good ol' species!!

I have many, many species of Amaryllids from South Africa and South America. You will really enjoy when your Scadoxus nutans blooms as they are really unusual and so easy to grow from seed. The big Cyrtanthus you have are also fantastic when they bloom, but honestly the leaves are pretty interesting all by themselves as you know. I think my favorite South African Amaryllid is the common Ammocharis coranica. I have posted many pics of mine in years past on here of various things that are not Hippis.

It is always hard to tell from a pic, but your big Worsleya looks like it is maybe 3-5 years old so hopefully only a few years from blooming once it gets nicely established in your growing conditions.

My best bloomer produced 8 blossoms on a single spike this summer, but I was too lazy to take a pic of it in bloom since I have so many pics already.

Good luck with your hybridizing. Many people have tried to cross Worsleya and Hippis, etc with no luck, but that doesn't mean you won't find the magic bullet! Good luck :o) Dan

Oh man, I got 3 yellow leaves on my large worsleya :( I don't know what happened. It was doing fine. I brought it in the house and put it next to the one that's really thriving at the moment. It's the first one in the first picture I posted. Not only has it got a larger leaf, and a second one coming out, but it's growing kind of rapidly and it's gotten thicker. Any suggestion on what went wrong? I've been very VERY sick these past couple of days and didn't turn off the fluorescent light in my greenhouse? You think it got too much light (that's constant light for about 48 hours)

It isn't light - many of mine are under 8 T5 fluorescent lights 24 hrs a day, 7 days a week all winter long. As long as it still has new leaves coming out it is not uncommon to see 2 yellowing leaves at once (the ones furthest out from the middle of the fan of leaves). Hard to say to be honest. Hope you are feeling better :o) Dan

Rob or Dan--you had both mentioned your scadoxus. Any interest in swapping for an offset of hippeastrum leonardii?

On the subject of worsleya--some seedlings will fail to thrive 'just because'...maybe genetics, maybe something else. I have been growing mine for almost 3 years, so I'm no expert, but the daily cycle of wet/bone dry is important, so all I use for established plants is GrowStone in a terra cotta pot. They take as much sun as possible, and at first it's hard to resist keeping the medium 'just a little moist'.
Here's a picture of one of my seedlings at 1 year, clinging fast to the growstone it grows in. Keeping the moisture trapped in the pot isn't helping your w's, and I'd suggest changing the medium, and using a terra cotta pot rather than glazed or plastic. Jmho....

Keep us posted!

--Rick in CT

I read this whole thread with great interest and found it to be very informative and educational. Out of curiosity, I have googled, who sells W. seeds/seedlings. Unsurprisingly, not much came up in the search. Hence my question, could knowledgeable people, please, recommend some reliable sources? Thanks.

Lena

Hi Lena--I bought my first seeds from plantaseeds in Brazil via ebay, and you'll probably find something there. Also you might check out the yahoo.com worsleya group, where members will occasionally have seeds available at a more moderate price. Good luck!

--Rick

Rick,
thanks a lot for the info, I'll definitely check the sources you've mentioned. BTW, what was your germination rate with the seeds bought from Brazil? Thanks.

Lena

Hi Lena, Yep, you will find plenty of them offered on ebayâ¦..way overpriced in my mind, but they are there and willing to ship anywhere so that is your best bet!

Rick, I hope yours have gotten nice and big after 3 years of hard-fought growth. The Scadoxus offsets by runners quite easily, but I've never put them in a bigger pot so they would actually root so I never increase my population. As you can likely relate to, space is at a premium so I try to avoid potting up at all cost :o)

Here is a rather poor pic of one of my blooms I had a month ago:

Dan, thanks for your comments. I got another question now - should I care about the clone whose seeds I'll be buying. Might sound like a dumb question, but I'm pretty sure there are quite a few clones out there - some more some less spectacular.
Lena

Lena, At this point I think there are many, many "clones" out there (I'm not looking to start a definition of clone by the way). I know I distributed several thousand seed a few years ago from a wide range of plants. As pointed out above, seed from the same plant can grow very differently. My largest 3 year old seedling is easily 3-5 times as large as some of the small ones from the same seed pod. Honestly, as pointed out in this thread and others, seed are a crap-shoot in that you may get a great plant or one that is less than impressive and it is why I would buy 10-20 seed if you can afford them. By doing that you are almost certain to get a good growing plant or two or three! It is also the reason I do not sell seed anymore. I simply decided that I'd like those very few plants that are much larger after 12-18 months to stay in my collection. As I said in another thread, having grown hundreds of seedlings, I get easily 90% germination (easily) and I'd estimate that 10% of those are stars, 10% are duds and the other 80% are all about the same with some rather minor variation. However, that is just what I see from seeds with my plants and others may have very different experiences.

I wish you luck in getting some seed of this beauty and that they do very well for you :o) Dan

Rob--it'll seem a little counter-intuitive, but your worsleya is rootless because of too much moisture. I would suggest dipping the base of the bulb in Rootone or similar, as it has a fungicide in it, which will help the plant recover. Pot it as described above, allowing a pronounced dry/wet cycle. After the sun goes down, give it a very light misting, and place a roomy plastic bag over it until next morning. You'll have to prop the plant up until it stabilizes. Don't let the sun hit it in the plastic bag, because it'll cook. The picture shows the plant growing in pure GrowStone, which has worked much better than Hydroton
Dan--here's a picture of my largest w, almost 3 years old, in a 5" pot. My conditions are less than optimal, so the growth has been a little slow.

--Rr

Hi Rick,

NIce looking plant!! I understand the less than optimal conditions here in Pittsburgh.

As I've posted in various threads, all of my large plants are in pure volcanic cinder so they dry out between waterings for sure. In fact, this is how I originally rooted them. I will also add that a grower in Brasil grows his in less than perfect drainage, but he is also in ideal conditions.

However, I have to say, I have had fantastic luck starting my seeds in pure sphagnum and keeping them there for 3 years plus so far. Under those conditions they never dry out. In fact, if you let sphagnum dry out it is really hard to rewet as you likely all know.

I will try to take some quick pics of mine in sphagnum just to give you an idea of what they look like.

This is why I always say that what I have found works for me may not work for someone else with very different growing conditions.

Good luck with these wonderful plants everyone :o) Dan

My challenge in germinating these has been seeds that start a root/radicle, but then never start a leaf, and therefore abort altogether. This has been my experience when starting on either sphagnum or perlite, with or without using a standard physan dip in advance. My better success rates have come from floating the seeds on pasteurized spring water, transferring to a perlite/scoria mix only after the first leaf has appeared, and coddling them along from there. Once I have that initial leaf, the rest is easy.

I'd like to know why the sphagnum method works so well for others, but bombs out for me. :-/

Suggestions?

-Rick

I'm aware of one worsleya seller in Brazil who regularly boasts fists full of seed pods for sale, and I have to wonder if the Organ mountains are being denuded of their endemic w population? It seems like it must be that, or the vendor has acres of his own mature specimens, which seems unlikely....

--Rr

Hi Rick, I'm guessing it all comes down to the momma plant producing good seed. Mine germinate so easily and all growâ¦some are not worth keeping, but that is a tiny minority in all honesty. Good genes seems to be the key and I seem to have a wonderful parent plant in that regard, although it has never set more than one pod even this past round when it produced a record (for me) 8 flowers on a single spike.

I am pretty sure that one person in Brasil harvests seeds from the mountains, which in the grand scheme of things is way better than digging up plants at least, but I have no clue if they sell on ebay.

Happy Holidays :o) Dan

Dan, thanks for elucidating the issue for me. It all boils down to getting a decent number of decent seeds, obviously - at least for a good start. It's a great thread!
Lena

Hi Dan--I sent an email to you at what I think may be an old email address. Did you receive it? Basically, it was regarding s.madeirensis.

Hope all is well!

--Rick

Wow... more yellow leaves on my large worsleya. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Maybe I need to transplant it. The pot I have has no drainage holes, but it's deep , I don't water it that often, and there are rocks at the bottom for drainage. Also, I have it in my window which probably receives 4 to 6 hours of sunlight, or less. I've just been afraid to put it outside because the first Worsleya I got, which had no leaves or anything, now has two leaves coming up and some little roots. They are in the same position. It has drainage in the pot though and I'm growing it in 90% pearlite and 10 % garden soil. The large one is in lava rocks, orchid mix, pearlite, and a touch of garden soil. Anyone have any suggestions? By the way, the one that wasn't looking so good died. I think I may have gotten a bad plant on that one though.

HI Rick, Just saw this as I sit here wasting time. The e-mail addy on here is defunct and the only one I have is my work addy which I'm not willing to give out here. I've never gotten any seed from my Scilla so never have any extras of that plant.

RobNelms, honestly, get the plant out of that potâ¦.no drainage is a certain death sentence. Stones at the bottom just create a water table so if you have roots that are reaching down that far they are sitting in water and likely rotting. When I first got some plants without roots I put them in pure pumice (didn't have volcanic cinder back then) on a heat mat to keep plenty of heat to the base of the plant until they had nice new roots. By the way, these plants can take a HUGE amount of sun so if you can get it under some lights, give it some heat and get it in a pot that drains. I sincerely hope you have not lost your beauty. Best of luck, Dan

OK, so what I'm thinking now is that these plants should not have any wet soil. They should be watered, but no water should be left in the pot, which means there shouldn't be any kind of soil that holds water. Am I correct?

One thing that bothers me is that I have a space out front where it can get a lot of light, but I just don't want it to freeze. How low a temperature can these withstand? Right now in Los Angeles, the lows go to the 50's, but just a few weeks ago, it was getting to the 50's high and high 30's low. I think that it at the moment, it may be getting to the high 40's overnight though.

Rob-- the best I can tell you is to go back and read what I wrote earlier on this thread, and what others wrote
.
You're using a plastic or glazed pot with little drainage, which sounds like a death sentence for worsleya. It's stagnant and sour. Think of the plants in their natural habitat. They have excellent drainage, and a lot of exposure. Your pot setup with perlite, potting soil and very low water or air circulation to the roots will eventually kill that plant. You spent a lot of money on nice plants. Now go buy a plain terra cotta pot at HD for ~$3, and some growstone or pumice at your local hydroponic store. Ditch the perlite and potting soil.

After repotting your plants, you'll need to coddle them a little, which means: flood the pot in the morning using fresh water at room temp, then let them spend the rest of the day in a few hours of sun until they are almost bone dry. You can mist themÃÂ on extra hot days, but only superficially, and only 1x per day.ÃÂ Use 1/4 strength fertilizer at least once a week. Do not let them stand in water. It's much better to skip a day or two of watering, in stead of over watering. I'm not the maven of worsleya culture (Dan is!!), but look at my pictures earlier on this thread showing the plants' roots, furry and healthy, and not a rotten one on'em, and they're dug into the scoria, which they seem to like better than hydroton.

People fail with this species bc they won't allow this daily wet/dry cycle. Let them adapt SLOWLY to more sun. I don't put mine outside at all. They just sit in a south-facing window.

Good luck!

--Rick

Dan--I guess I'll buy seeds and grow my own. It's not good to have only one narrow genetic line for s species being mass-produced by commercial labs....(imho)

------ Rick.
None are in plastic. There in glazed clay pots. I'm drilling a hole in one right now. I'm hoping that terra-cotta pots aren't the only solution because they look awful. They start out ok, but eventually start coming apart. I have several that I'm using and I regret buying each one. I will buy one if that's what everyone else thinks though. Talk about an eyesore. Now, pumice I can get at amazon. Are you sure that pure perlite won't work just as well?

Pure perlite only works for the seedlings during the first few months.

How do terra cotta pots 'start coming apart'?

Terracotta pots start peeling and getting red dust everywhere, and they alway, no matter what you do, get this white stuff all around them.

Hi Rick,

I had that problem with some terracotta pots too. It could be the salt build-up from water and/or fertilizer. As you know, salt can be extremely corrosive and it may be reacting to the iron (in mineral form) in the pots. I have switched to plastic or stoneware type pots with good results.

Warm Regards,
Fred

RobNelms, I think you need to take a long view on thisâ¦..you should still have these plants in a decade and then the decade after thatâ¦.or longer!! What you desperately need to do now is not kill itâ¦..while I'm sure you can get away with glazed or plastic pots in the future (I have one of mine in a glazed pot and all my 2-4 year old seedlings in plastic pots) what you want right now is PERFECT drainage to get the roots established. When you have a pot full of roots they can take more watering and less drainage (plastic and glazed pots by default have less drainage because their is less loss of water via the clay pot), but now you need to not lose your beautiful plant. I've posted a lot of times, I use pure volcanic cinder or pure pumice for my plantsâ¦.I'm sure in more ideal conditions you can get away with some potting mix or whatever, but I know my conditions are no where near perfect! For now I think you want lots of warmth so I would keep them inside. My plants are very well established so mine go outside starting in April and come back in late Oct. I leave mine out as long as it is not going in to the 30s at nightâ¦.this is what they see in their native habitatâ¦..but yours are not nearly well enough established so keep them warm in your houseâ¦maybe even give them bottom heat for now. I'm sure you can succeed with this plant, but please keep it in perfect drainage for nowâ¦â¦experiment when you have more to experiment with!!

I just harvested my latest seed pod to mature so I hope in a few weeks I have another 50 or so seedlings nicely growing.

Rick, if I get flowers on my Scilla next fall and they set seed you are welcome to someâ¦.I just never make an attempt to set seed since I have no room for more anyway. By the way, one of my Scadoxus nutans offsets is growing a leaf despite hanging next to the pot of soil in the air so I will cut it off and get it in a separate potâ¦.if it grows roots it is yours in the spring. It has lots of root buds so maybe it will quickly root.

Good growing all :o) Dan

OK, so I transplanted my large Worsleya. But, I'm not sure it was necessary because when I took it out the pot, it had a lot of new roots, some that were quite large. Since it was growing so well, I only changed the growing medium a little by using much less soil and mainly using lava rocks and orchid mix. I was quite surprised to see all the roots on it. I'm guessing that it probably needs more light or maybe the yellow leave is just how it grows.

I suppose a picture says a thousand words RobNelms. The way they grow is that you should have continuous new leaves emerging from the center (even when it flowers it keeps pumping out new leaves) and the ones at the edges, furthest away from the center, will turn yellow, brown and eventually fall off by themselves (I pull then off when brown just to keep them looking neater). About the most leaves you will ever have on a plant at a time is 13 or soâ¦â¦I do not think I've ever had more than 15 at a time, because the oldest ones keep dying back as they should.

I'm happy you repotted. Even if it appears fine now, in the end you would want perfect drainage. If you put it outside in the summer and you get a lot of rain like we do then the pot would flood with water without a drainage hole.

I'm not sure where you live, but here in PA you can not possibly give them too much sun. Full sun with a direct Southern exposure is not too much for mine by any stretch of the imagination.

Keep up the good work :o) Dan

Hey Dan... nope, I live in California, Los Angele where it NEVER rains these days. We has a sorry little sprinkle yesterday. It was supposed to rain today, but I think it's gotten up to the high 70's to low 80's AGAIN...

Anyway, mine is in a Southeast facing window, but after about 2:30, the sun is covered by the house next door. There's a Southwest spot on my front porch that probably gets sun from 10am to sunset. Maybe I'll try there eventually.

I guess my two yearlings are happy. They are continuously putting out new leaves. I even have roots coming out the pot's holes, so I am thinking a repotting is in the future (after I get the perfect medium).
K

Well, everything seems to be growing fine. My original plant that I first posted about has 3 leaves now. My big one has one leaf that's growing out. Probably needs more light, but I hesitate sticking it on the front porch, where I'll get the most light, due to possible thieves. Anyway, I've been looking to buy another one and no one has any reasonably priced that I can find. If anyone wants to make $200 on one that's at least 3 to 4 years old, let me know.

Another update: two new leave from my big Worsleya. The first one has 3 leaves now. They seem to be growing slower. I put an LED light right next to them. My hippeastrums grow like crazy under this light. Seems to have a similar effect on the Worsleya as well. I'll keep an eye on it for now. I got some pumice at last, but I'm afraid to change the soil since they're already growing so well. Maybe I won't transplant them, but just change out some of the soil. Well, thanks again everyone.

I repotted both of mine. When Dan sent them they were in milled sphagum moss, so he recommended the same for the repot. Split them into two pots, didn't go wider, but pot is deeper. That was about 3 weeks ago. Both are still happy and putting out new leaves.

Everything's growing fine now. I have 5, including another larger one. The strangest thing: I have two that are growing strait up, with some papery bark, and 3 that are arching with a smooth textured bark. Could there actually be two different kinds of Worsleya?