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oberci

Help with Proper Repotting Procedure

oberci
11 years ago

Hello all,

This is my first post here but I've been perusing the Citrus Forum for a few months now and I'm in Sacramento, CA. I have 2 mandarine trees that I'd like to move into a more decorative container which will remain outdoors, and as I've never done it before, I'm hoping you all can help me get through the repotting procedure. I figured I'd give these trees the best chance at a smooth transition by asking you all for help before I make some nonsense mistake and have to redo everything. ;)

Here is what I've gathered from looking over past threads, but please chime in if I am missing something or have something wrong.

Here's the plan:

1. Soak tree in existing pot.

2. Mix 511 with about 1 tbsp/gallon of Dolomite.

3. Fill new container with mix to about where the bottom of roots will reach.

4. When well-soaked, remove tree from old pot and shake off old mix. Get as much of old soil off of the roots as possible keeping it in a shady area as roots are exposed.

5.Prune roots by about 1/3 all around.

6. Hold tree at desired height in container and add mix gently pressing down to secure tree in place.

7. Add mix to the the height that it was in in the old container.

8. Insert a wooden dowel toward the center of the rootball.

9. Water thoroughly with a capful of white vinegar added per gallon of water.

  1. Water whenever the wooden dowel comes out dry.

  2. Once the tree puts out new growth, add Foliage Pro with every watering.

And a couple questions:

-What do you usually do with the old soil mix?

-Is it necessary to top prune as well and by how much?

-Should water be added to the mix as it is being added or only at the end?

-How thick of a wooden dowel do you use?

-How long do you wait to start adding FP after repotting?

Comments (22)

  • meyermike_1micha
    11 years ago

    Before you do anything, make sure your mix is already wet. I usually spray it down and then mix with my hands until the mix is evenly moist. At this time you could add a small amount of slow release fertilizer such as 'Osmocote' if you feel you will miss fertilizing every week with a water soluble one.

    Unless you want to stunt the growth, I would not cut away any roots at all.
    If you cut off 1/3, then I would cut off 1/3 of the tree too. It can take a long time for roots to repair and grow out on citrus.

    If you can't get the old soil out, then cut 3 wedges out from top to bottom since it seems my citrus can handle this type of root pruning than most. Once the roots grow into that new mix, then a year or two from now, you can repot cutting off the remaining old mix wedges. It is then when you will have the whole root system growing in the newer 5.1.1 mix.

    I wouldn't shake off the old mix since it can be very heavy and break off many roots. I would just spray it off with the hose until all the roots are cleaned off.

    You can feed within a week since you are using the 5.1.1 mix.

    It's great to see someone like you come out and see how much you have learned. You ought to be proud of yourself:-)

    I usually throw the old mix into my garden beds.
    I usually top prune by as much as the roots I take off if I must do so.
    I usually add water to the mix before hand, then a good jet stream of water after to ensure the mix falls in between all the roots.
    I use a wooden dowel the thickness of a pencil.
    A week or two.

    I hope this helps. You see to have a great foundation to growing healthy container citrus.

    Mike:-)

  • johnmerr
    11 years ago

    Dandylioness,

    I second Mike's congrats and you should know you are now being advised by one of the container gurus.

    Do what Mike advises and you will do well.

    There is another fellow, near Sacramento, known here as Greenman; he can help you with local issues; look for him on the search box and email him.

    John

  • meyermike_1micha
    11 years ago

    Dandy, I see you have not been back yet? Good:-)

    i wanted to set something straight on your pruning question.

    I have a wonderful friend that has taught me so much. She filled me in on the proper way of pruning away leaves verses roots and now I shall have to follow her advice too moving forward. I have to sends a thanks to her since she is always interested in how I grow and wants to make sure I dispense proper info. I treasure her advice and respect her knowledge. Here it is since I am sure she won't mind if I share:-)


    The thing is that the leaves are critically important in the manufacture of new roots! ALL of a plant's growth and production comes from photosynthesis. If we reduce the amounts of 'factories' by pruning, a plant will react by surging to make even more leaves.

    "I just wanted to mention something to you about what you said about pruning the top as much as she removes from the roots. You might be interested in knowing that top pruning to compensate for root loss is not an accepted practice....though it still remains as something that people think makes sense. It DOES make sense, until you understand the science behind why it's not a good thing.

    The thing is that the leaves are critically important in the manufacture of new roots! ALL of a plant's growth and production comes from photosynthesis. If we reduce the amounts of 'factories' by pruning, a plant will react by surging to make even more leaves.

    "Then, our plants have an annoying characteristic of only being able to concentrate on one thing at a time....if we prune the top AND the roots, the energy resources will usually go straight to making new leaves. That's not so good after a root pruning job, is it?

    A properly root pruned plant will be able to regenerate lots of new roots in a very short time, but not if the top has been pruned, too.

    Hope this helps and I give all the thanks to my good friend!

    Mike

  • blazeaglory
    11 years ago

    I agree with Mike.

  • oberci
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Hello again!

    Mike, thank you so much for taking the time to deal with us newbies, I continue to come across many of your old posts, and I'm so honored to get your advice firsthand! I was actually out of town and didn't get a chance to respond until now, but I think I'm ready to repot!

    I'll let you all know how it goes and maybe get some pics up as a thank you for the help! :)

  • meyermike_1micha
    11 years ago

    Anytime Dandy!

    I wish you good success. I would love to see pics once you are done.

    Mike:-)

  • noss
    11 years ago

    Hello,

    What is 511?

    Also, what is the proper time to repot/plant citrus trees in South Louisiana?

    Is Dolomite a kind of lime?

    I've put this thread in favorites, but I'd like to be able to gear the information for my climate. I see Dandy, that you are in zone 9, as well. Where do you live?

    Thanks,

    Vivian

  • oberci
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Hi vivian,

    I am in Sacramento, CA. 511 is DIY potting mix developed by gardenweb member "tapla" which many people on this forum prefer to use for their potted citrus. You can read more info about it in this post:
    http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0214580016564.html

    I don't have any experience with it personally, but I've decided to use this particular mix because of the many people on this forum who have had such great success with it. And since I plan to turn to these people for advice in the future, it only seems logical to me that I follow their methods so that they can better help me diagnose any problem that may some day come up. So if you also wish to seek help from gardenweb's extremely knowledgeable and helpful members, I'd recommend trying out this (or the other popular "gritty") mix outlined in the link above.

    Dolomite is a type of lime that also contains some Magnesium alongside the Calcium found in Calcitic lime. I cannot remember the science behind adding Dolomite to the mix but I'm sure MeyerMike or someone more well-read on the topic will tune in and describe why Citrus require Magnesium.

    I'm not sure what the proper time is to replant, but I do think there should be proper conditions. Like, don't expose the roots to extreme temperatures, don't let them be in direct sunlight. I'm missing some points I'm sure, so hopefully someone else can give a better list. Hope that helps! :)

  • noss
    11 years ago

    Hi Dandylioness (Love your name! Too cute.)

    I know Al and also know about his gritty mix. It sounds so good, but I'd have to be watering all day because it's so brutally hot here. Al says it's not about convenience, it's about what's best for the plant and I understand that, but I am on meds that I have to limit my exposure to the sun. I grow everything in pots, so I need to fix up some more porous soil for my citrus and fig trees. Mostly I need to get the sun off the pots. A lot of changes are needed.

    I hope I got the right lime. It says dolomite on the bag, so I'm hoping it's the right stuff, thanks.

    I think I understand that citrus trees need an acid soil, but not real acidic? Lime will raise the ph. I think it's raise. lower ph is more acidic and higher ph is mor alkaline and I don't remember what is neutral number.

    I'll ask the people at one of the nurseries about the best time to repot/plant citrus around here. They should know--I hope--ya never know.

    Thanks,

    Vivian

  • meyermike_1micha
    11 years ago

    Hello Vivian and Dandylioness.

    Vivian, if you are afraid of the gritty mix drying out to fast for you, you can always put a good layer of mulch on the surface. That is what I do.

    There is a good friend of mine here that grows many plants in the 'gritty' mix and has great success. If I am not mistaken, I think her mix actually stay moist longer than you might think. I will send her here for you.

    Also, the 5.1.1 mix is just 5 parts bark, 1 part perlite, and one part peat with added lime to bring the very acidic nature of the bark and peat up a bit while providing good nutrients.

    If you get a bagged mix, make sure it is a good one. Sometimes spending the extra money is far worth it. Sometimes what I do is strain out most of the peat with a screen, then what is left behind, usually bark and perlite is what I use. The less fine particles for me, the better for my trees since it is the perched water that I do not want in my pots that usually kill the roots of my trees.
    If I am correct, I think that many in Florida have issues with mixes at certain times of the year due to many rainy days.

    For me, I can get days on end of cloudy cool rainy days, such as now, and I can't afford to use a mix that holds heavy water at the root zone far too long.

    Just remember, that the finer the particles are in your mixes, the more of a perched water you are going to create in your containers and the chances of root rot rise. The larger the particles, and I mean all particle being about the same size, the less chances of root rot and a perched water table.

    Let me see if I can get one of my friends in your area involved here.

    Mike:-))))

  • puglvr1
    11 years ago

    Hi everyone!! Mike has given some super wonderful advise here, very useful and practical. Can't say much more as he's covered everything...I live in FL and I use a lot of gritty mix for almost all my container plants and absolutely LOVE it!! I do tweek my gritty mix and use less or more Turface according to watering needs of the plant.

    For our rainy season...I've since added a wick to some of my potted plants that don't like to stay wet when we get those rainy days in a row.

    Vivian, I'm sure our weather is similar...I would add a little more turface if your afraid the mix will dry out too quickly. Also you can add a "little bit of peat" to help retain the moisture. You'd be surprised that you really don't have to water them as often when you do this...

    Best of luck!!

    Hey Mike!!

  • noss
    11 years ago

    Hi Mike,

    You live in zone 5 and I live in zone 9a. What I'm concerned about with the gritty mix is that they sun will super-heat the stone and turface up and cook the tree in its pot. Al said that the plants would have to be watered more frequently, but I'm on meds that react to the sun and I can't be out in the sun a lot because I get a nasty, red, itchy rash. Otherwise, I'd give the gritty mix a try. Everyone I know down here who has used it says it tears their trees up.

    As far as the 511 goes, though, I could try that. I need to buy something to screen the mixtures I have here.

    What size holes in the screening would you recommend? I would love to find something that could have removable screens of different sizes and just one frame. What kind of screens do you have?

    I'm afraid I'll become a pest, but I'm getting some very good information here and I hope it's good for Dandy, as well. I think we're on the same subject. If not, please let me know?

    Thanks,

    Vivian

  • meyermike_1micha
    11 years ago

    Hey Vivian...

    First, it would mean a lot to me if you first made an acknowledged by friend Pug above that came for a visit from Florida to help you, then I will add more comments....Thanks a million. I am sure it was just an oversight:-)

    Mike

  • puglvr1
    11 years ago

    NO worries Mike...I'm sure she probably just missed it, and even if not NO hard feelings :o) Honestly, you are SO much better at helping her as I am since you grow so much more Potted plants than I do. ALL your plants are to "die for" super healthy I'm beyond jealous,lol...I would go to you for help and that's the truth!! Thanks Mike!!

  • oberci
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Hi puglvr1!

    Thanks for joining the thread and giving your insight! Always helpful to hear feedback from gardeners in similar weather.

    At the risk of revealing my primitive gardening skills...what is a wick..?

    :) thanks

  • puglvr1
    11 years ago

    Thanks Dandylioness! I'm not the best person to ask about "wicks" but I can give you a simple (non scientific explanation,lol...) I use a piece of yarn although I'm sure anything similar will work like a piece of cotton string, an old shoe lace. I insert it through one of the hole in the pot and it helps remove the excess water (perched water) that always seems to pool on the very bottom of the pot. This way, when we get a lot of rain, it helps drain it...Hope that made some sense :o)

    Here is a link that might be useful: Here's a picture...I believe it belongs to AL

  • meyermike_1micha
    11 years ago

    Hello all!

    Vivian, I use mop strings for wicks, but the key is to make sure that the pot is lifted high enough for the string to hand freely so that the water can wick away from the mix. Glad you and my Floridian friend met. She is a gem for helping others for your growing area! You should see the Mango and Jades she is growing in the mix.:-)

    Hello Pug! I am so happy to see you hear. It adds so much flavor to this forum and I appreciate that! You are too kind and sweet! I have learned from you too by the way. Your plants are just as lovely.:-)

    Mike

  • oberci
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks pug for the link!

    mike, I'm confused by this statement
    "the key is to make sure that the pot is lifted high enough for the string to hand freely so that the water can wick away from the mix"

    Can you please restate what you mean by "lifted high enough" and "for the string to hand freely"? Thanks!

  • puglvr1
    11 years ago

    Hi Dandylioness...I think Mike accidentally confused you with Vivian,lol...been there done that :o).

    Mike, thanks for bringing that part up...that is definitely the most important part of using a wick correctly! Appreciate it.

    Dandy since the old saying goes like this "a picture is worth a thousand words" I decided to post a couple of pictures instead, much easier than explaining it. I'm a very visual person and prefer pictures.

    {{gwi:586240}}

    {{gwi:586241}}

  • oberci
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Oh I see! Thanks Pug that certainly cleared it up!

  • puglvr1
    11 years ago

    You're welcome Dandy...much easier to show you than to explain it,lol...

  • greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
    11 years ago

    Hey, folks! Welcome!
    Mike and Nancy, great to see you two here ;-)
    I agree with the advice that Mike has given, and John is correct that I'm close to Sacramento.....
    I'm down there visiting my brother fairly often. The 5-1-1 would be a superb mix for the climate.

    I may have missed it, but I'll risk repeating advice:
    after re-potting, protect your tree from sun and wind for about two weeks. I've found that this
    will really help the tree hold onto the leaves it has.


    Josh

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