With the myriad of ladybeetles I have in my home every Spring, I collect them and put them on my ninebark which has an aphid problem also every year. A blast of water also helps and, like most pests, look for them early before there are millions of them.

tj

Start by looking closely at the soil this honeysuckle is growing in because Aphids are one sign of a plant growing in unhealthy conditions. To clean Aphids off the plant the best, and easiest, means is a sharp stream of water to knock them off.

I have also found ornamental honeysuckle to be yearly aphid magnets in my neck of the woods.
To control.....take a sharp pair of pruners, carefully inspect vine from all sides, fluff any crossed branches, remove mulch/leaves from soil line...quickly clip at soil line:-)))....no more problem!!

PS.Sometimes the problems with a plant are not worth the time you have to put into it.........

Very good point, schmoo. One of the fundamental steps in Integrated Pest Management is to learn which plants are known 'magnets' for certain pests, and to avoid bring them into your gardens. That is, unless you're ready and willing to wage battle for a few weeks out of the year. For some, it's worth that battle.

Honeysuckle is, unfortunately, one of those plants.

I have exactly the same problem with my honeysuckle and aphids. I do not believe the soil is our problem because we had these bushes professionally moved and replanted by a horticulturist two years ago and he was very good. We've tried soap in a hose-end sprayer, we've tried garlic powder in a hose-end sprayer, we've planted garlic under the honeysuckle bushes, and (long ago) we tried old fashioned toxic insecticide (no more). Is spraying the aphids with a strong blast of water really best? I've contemplated buying ladybettles to release around the honeysuckle, but I'm not sure what time of spring/summer it is best to buy and release them (I am zone 3). Any great non-toxic methods I'm missing here to get rid of those aphids? I really need the magic bullet here! Thanks, -Kim

The purchase and release of ladybugs in hopes that they'll stick around to eat aphids where YOU want them to is almost always futile. They'll happily scatter in all directions, far and away.

However, it is important to have a diversity of plants in your yard, keep broad spectrum pesticide use to a minimum (or less), and to foster a good, balanced soil system. That way, ladybugs and a wide variety of other beneficial organisms will occupy your gardens.

Insecticidal soaps (commercial) work better than home remedies and when directed to the aphids can be helpful. I suggest using an oil spray in the winter, too, as aphids lay eggs in the nook and crannies of the bark. And yes, strong blasts of water, if done routinely, can be very helpful.

There is no ONE magic bullet, I'm afraid. Especially when dealing with an aphid magnet such as this. You'll need to use a combination of all of the above.

Me? No honeysuckle in my yard.

rhizo, thanks for your response. Just a couple of questions. What is an oil spray? What kind of oil?

You can find horticultural oil in any location that sells gardening products. There are so many name brands, trade names, and types of oils that I hesitate to name one.

I suggest you do a little internet reading before heading out to your local garden center to see what's available in your area. (See attached link to get you started.)

Horticultural oils have been used for many generations of gardeners, for the (safe and effective) control of a very wide variety of pests. I consider the winter applications of these products as an important step in halting the rapid surge in aphids in the spring. The oils smother the eggs and any lingering adults.

Here is a link that might be useful: C'mon....let's do some reading!

rhizo, THANK YOU so much! I read the information you linked. Interestingly, it was from Colo State Univ. Extension. I'm in Colorado and have an extension office in my town. I'm going to call them or go and see them because on the winter spraying issue it says not to do it at temps below freezing. Where I live it is hard to find a time in winter when we are not below freezing. But everything here has been very helpful and I'm on a mission to get the best of those aphids this summer! Cheers, -Kim

You're very welcome, Kim.

By the way, you can spray DECIDUOUS plants in the winter-time without a problem, just not evergreens. You do want to avoid spraying while it's below freezing, because you won't get good coverage of the stems, but not because of the possibility of damage.

Of course, you could get in an application or two in the late winter/early spring before the buds break.

How about using a garlic spray?

This has worked as a non- toxic killer of caterpillars and leaf moulds on tomatoes for me, not yet tried it on my honeysuckle which looks ruined..,

If a spray kills anything it is not non toxic.

kimmq is kimmsr

And just what is your point, kimmq? Are you simply picking apart words? Doing so without explanation can cause confusion and confusion for novices who are trying to gain some productive knowledge.

If your intent is deeper, please explain......for all of us.

The point is made above, rhizo. "If a spray kills anything it is not non toxic." Explain what you do not understand about that.

kimmq is kimmsr

Most plant-based sprays or those formulated from essential oils - garlic, rosemary, clove, hot peppers, etc. - are NOT toxic. They do not 'kill' insects but rather repel them, making the subject plant unpalatable or undesirable to lay eggs on. As such, they may not be as effective as a true pesticide but definitely worth including in one's IPM arsenal.

We are in east central Fl, Humm Hummingbirds are just showing up in force and we just noticed our 1st aphid infestation,, any ideas on how to maybe control w/o harming Hummers?? we just used a Dawn /water dose .. giess guess we will try the water blast after the tropical sto hoes by,, I also pruned back a nd removed /burned obvious infesinfestation,, Thanks for any advice in advance,,,,,

Spray with Bonide after the Blooms drop. One application. Typically spray before the end of May before it gets hot in June. Works every time. :)

^^^ Sorry, but you cannot spray to prevent aphids. You can only treat for them after they appear. Spraying with a strong stream of water is one of the most effective treatments but if you have hummingbirds visiting, I'd just let them take care of the problem for you :-)

I disagree. I have used a Systemic product for 20 years. Works every time. You should try the Bonide.. :)

A systemic is overkill for aphids!! Why resort to that when water will work equally as well or better yet, let nature and natural predators take care of it. And as a believer and follower of IPM, chemicals should always be the last resort.

btw, nothing good can come from a liberal use of any organophosphate.....except harm to unintended species, including humans,

You are correct.. I have tried Lady Bugs. They flew away the first day. &, the aphid are contained in leaves that fold. That is the reason for the Systemic. :)

Vincent, are you aware that systemic pesticides affect bees and other pollinators? Bees have become alarmingly rare in many parts of world, including the U.S. The indiscriminate use of pesticides by uninformed gardeners, landscapers, and even homeowners is causing a severe population decline of wild and domesticated bees.

Do better, Vincent. What you do in your yard doesn't just affect you. At the very least, stop recommending to others that they follow your path.

Totally agree with non-use of chemicals! So, after trying everything but, I removed my honesuckle. No more problem! :D There are plenty of other flowering plants and vines on the market and in my garden to satisfy bees of all kinds, pollinators and hummingbirds!

I wait until the petals fall on the honeysuckle prior to spraying. I get rid of the aphids & not the bees. :)

This type of chemical will leach into the environment in many ways. I'm surprised that people still excuse their use of it.