All depends on the size of the cells. I plant annuums in those pony packs that you get seedlings in from the nurseries without potting up, sometimes.

Personally, it appears the chinenses prefer a pot up.

Kevin

Unless your growing midget peppers you will want to move them to another pot in between so as to not stunt growth. They take off, when planted in ground, b/c they are no longer restricted.

is it as simple as taking the entire plant and its block of soil from the seedling tray and moving it to a solo cup? The cell is 2" x 2" (32 cells fit in the tray).

and jtight, I completely agree with what you're saying. Since they "take off" one way or the other once outside, is it really worth the extra step of re-potting in between?

In my experience, If they become rootbound, they seem to take an extra week or two longer to "take off" once in ground. Certain types may be more or less affected by this, but i have observed it a bunch of different Chinenses. The one nursery tray that might be an exception are the nursery trays that root prune, i've had pretty good luck with them going from tray to ground. I also seem to have luck using aspirin water upon transplanting, the plants appear to take off right away (one 325mg genuine aspirin per gallon of water, a couple of tablespoons per plant),

38 Cell Nursery Tree Tubes:
- http://growerssolution.com/PROD/38-star-nursey-tree-tube-deep-tray-case/59-51451

32 cell Speedling trays:
- http://www.groworganic.com/speedling-transplant-tray-32-cell.html

Speedling tray Reviewed:
- http://www.vegetablegardener.com/item/4689/seed-starting-in-speedling-trays

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Star Nursery Tree Tube Deep Tray

This post was edited by sjetski on Sun, Mar 2, 14 at 16:14

I've gone from the tray to the ground, but I only recommend it with the fast-growing varieties - such as Thai, Hungarian Wax, Hot Cherry, Jalapeno, et cetera.

Josh

Peps - yes on re-potting. Otherwise you are ess. restricting the growth of the plant. Once the plants get solid a/ are not flimsy (~2nd set of leaves) then transplant into a larger container (i.e., peat pot or large solo cups, etc.) This will allow them to increase root structure a/ allow plant to grow a/ solidfy itself prior to introduction w/ ground.

Ok. I'll do the solo cup switch around April 1. Is there anything I should do to untangle the roots when they're removed from the cell? Or just leave the roots alone and don't disturb them?

I would make the assessment of whether or not to spread the roots only on if they were circling (try to untangle circling roots without breaking rootball apart) if there not circling theres not too much of a point to spread the root structure.

I usually plant peppers in 72 cell trays and transplant straight into the high tunnels or outside after hardening off. Last year I tried to pot up peppers out of 98's to 72's I didn't notice a difference. They are always good producers, but I am also planting them out probably smaller than most. I don't have enough space to pot up 600-700 peppers into bigger pots.

Jay

The answer to the main question, I think, is "yes, you can".
But then why start them indoors, under light? I do that to have a heads tart and plant out a good sizable seedling. I have even started from seed in cold frame and directly in the garden, in the past ; Things like eggplants, tomatoes. But then I was gardening where I had a long growing season ( 7 to 8 months)