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lainie55

shower floor materials and kerdi questions

lainie55
16 years ago

Gosh will I ever stop asking questions? Soon I hope!

So, with help of Bill, Mongo and others, it looks like my shower floor will be mud job plus kerdi, or possibly the kerdi pan (I think it will be decided after we demo and know if the drain location is OK or not for kerdi pan).

What material(s) should be specified for below the "mud"? One layer of 3/4 inch thick exterior grade plywood?--that's just my guess. Anything else?

I'm all set with the other floors (plan to use ditra) cause Schluter is pretty specific in their instructions.

Also, is there anything in the Schluter instructions that you feel could be done better or differently?

Mongo, what is "CDX" plywood?

Thanks again!

Lainie

Comments (4)

  • MongoCT
    16 years ago

    Continuing with my complete inability to be brief and concise: ;)

    Plywood has four typical face grades; A, B, C, and D. "A" and "B" grades are the best, with "A" having no flaws in the surface veneer, it's good for stain grade cabinetry. "B" has a nice finish, but can have some patches in it to get rid of knot holes in the veneer, it's suitable for paint grade.

    "C" and "D" are lesser grades, they are quite a bit rougher than A/B. The "X" refers to the glue being used to glue the veneers together being an exterior rated glue. The glue should not weaken when wet, allowing the plywood to delaminate.

    So, for cabinetry or furniture, you'd want AB plywood. For house framing (subfloors and wall/roof sheathing, CDX is what you'd want.

    As to the shower floor, 3/4" CDX ply is fine. If the subfloor were wood planking or 1/2" ply instead of 3/4", I'd add another layer of ply on top to isolate the wood planks from the deck mud or to strengthen the 1/2" CDX, depending on which you have.

    So once you have your plywood subfloor in place:

    On top of that I put down a "slip sheet". I use 6-mil poly, some use tar paper. Staple it to the floor, just enough staples to tack it into place. If there is any radiant floor heating under the shower, don't use tar paper. Instead use poly.

    Over the poly use expanded diamond mesh, that gets nailed to the floor right on top of the poly. Overlap any seams and work to get the mesh flat so there are no "pops" in it when you walk on it.

    The deck mud then gets packed on top of the mesh, pack it in well and build it up to the required thickness and slope.

    Mongo

  • lainie55
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    As usual, thanks so much! I see you re-posted the fantastic installation demo, too. I actually printed that whole posting, a few months ago.

    Hey Bill, if you read this, I occasionally buy plants at Filanowskis, a stone's throw from your old window-shattering-from-the-copters house. I can see why you like Maine better, but I really love Connecticut (except the people are a bit friendlier down in Pennsylvania where I grew up).

    I time almost all my travelling to avoid "rush" hour, but if not, I often take back road routes. I'd rather drive 30 mph in peace than stop and go on the highways.

    Lainie

  • bill_vincent
    16 years ago

    I assume that's what used to be Gloria's over by Plains Rd. and Rte. 1?

  • lainie55
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Well, talk about off topic! (sorry everyone else!!)

    No, I think Glorias is still there. Filinowskis was (or is) very close to the Wheelers....Exit off the Merritt. I don't even think they had a sign at the end of the driveway, very low key, more like a wholesaler. But many greenhouses filled with plants and very low prices.

    Gosh, irrelevant now anyway! And I stopped going there cause I cut back on volume of planting in recent years.

    Lainie