Based off the picture it looks like the tile and white oak are at same height?
And im assuming you would rather not have something that would not be flush between the two floors?

The tile looks great. I'd go with a shade darker than your darkest tile for a couple of reasons. One, the darker the grout, the less it shows stains. Two, your wood floor has dark areas between the boards and I think they would have the same look then. JMO

I think you should have planned for your transition piece before the install. Your options are probably limited now, or probably not quite right spaced for whatever you choose.

The tile looks beautiful. Looks like it will be a very enjoyable and practical floor.

snookums -

I did plan for the transition, it was going to have grout that was "invisible" but at the last minute (notice when I posted, midnight the night before after we had already done some testing in the closet a couple days before), I had "second thoughts". Actually these were third thoughts because I had already changed my mind - originally wanted "invisible", then wanted "darker", then wanted "invisible" again. Hate those "second thoughts" so where else to turn when one has "second thoughts", this forum, of course!
Four times is a charm - hopefully. I think it would have been beautiful either way but that is when considered as a "stand alone". Problem here really can't be resolved unless I had experience of a designer and could envision what the whole kitchen will look like with each option. (And yes, I already have diagrams and elevations and 3d, etc. -- for those of us who are inexperienced, only the real kitchen is going to resolve my indecision. IMO.) But thanks to those who were willing to voice their "gut reactions".

Sorry, I completely misunderstood your post. I thought you meant a transition piece between the two floors (ie, schluter, t strip molding). Don't grout that joint between the two floors. It needs to be caulked if you go that route. Otherwise, the difference in expansion/contraction between the two materials will cause the grout to crack.

As far as grout color, look at lots of pictures. I would think you'd lose a lot of the beautiful herringbone pattern if you tried to match the dominant color. The tones of the two floors are very similar, so they already connect on that level. I don't think you have an issue of transitioning in terms of grout color. I guess the more natural selection for a wood look would be a little darker than the main color, like a shadow between the boards. A lighter color or a gray will look more like a tile floor with grout. I wouldn't do something lighter, as in peachy. You can kind of see what it would look like lighter right now. The higher the contrast you have with the tile will affect how busy or pronounced the floor pattern will look. Maybe you could cut strips of colored construction paper to lay over the joints to see what appeals to you more. You've got some variation in the tile colors, but when you use a grout color that matches the flooring, the floor becomes one big solid mass of color.

Here is a link that might be useful: herringbone tile pictures

This post was edited by snookums2 on Thu, Aug 8, 13 at 23:15

{{gwi:1552068}}

just coming across this post, we seem to have a similar situation. Do you have "finished" pictures??