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ysrgrathe

Dressing and coping a formal pond

ysrgrathe PA 6b
9 years ago

Is there any general advice for how to dress the interior of a formal pond with straight edges? I have seen some guidance that there should be a concrete footer under the border of the pond, both inside (below the liner, to support stone stacked on the interior of the pond) and around the exterior to support the coping stone.

I was thinking the easiest thing to do would be to build up the walls using drystack stones and PL adhesive; I have minimal masonry experience and wouldn't want to build a bricked wall. I could also imagine using thin (4") cement blocks to build an interior structure that could support tile.

Any advice on the best approach for an unskilled builder?

Comments (11)

  • ysrgrathe PA 6b
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Here is an image of what I'm proposing. This doesn't provide guidance to how the liner should be hidden. (Houzz won't seem to let me insert a link, credit goes to:http://www.worldofwater.co.uk/product_images/uploaded_images/formal2.gif)

  • Debbie Downer
    9 years ago

    I hope others reply - I built mine very similar - shelf, straight sides. Where the liner shows above the water is more annoying than you might think... even with the rock overhang. Especially when water drops due to evaporation or whatever. If I had it to do over, I would have the liner go around the top shelf rock instead of over it (ie rock goes in the water instead of the dirt - black foam around sides and back of the rock.) Or maybe have two rocks instead of one - bottom rock in the dirt, top rock in the water. Where are you located? Footings ideally go below frost line - or just be prepared to readjust rocks every now and then, may not be a big deal.

  • ysrgrathe PA 6b
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks. Would you recommend something like this? Do you need to cover the liner more than the top 8-12"?

    Regarding the footers, I am in Z6, the frost line is 40 inches. This seems ludicrously deep for footers if my wall is just ~8" on grade, perhaps a bit more depending on where I start the wall. It seems like dry stack manufacturers say you can get away with just a leveled sand base; do you think I would be OK building on a concrete footer on gravel? I'm building this next to my slab-on-grade patio, which has shown no signs of winter distress. Or am I just deluding myself that deep footers are only needed for tall structures?


  • cliff_and_joann
    9 years ago

    Our walls inside the pond are straight, actually they're shelves with plants and rocks. We dressed the top with rocks.

  • cliff_and_joann
    9 years ago

    A try at posting a pic and you tube link.

    Here is a link to one of our many pond videos.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=related&v=B0_Lc7D_D6U

  • cliff_and_joann
    9 years ago

    Here is a favorite video of mine...all the plants and flowers cascade over

    the pond rocks lining the pond. Enjoy.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qj-ngxuAPPs

  • Debbie Downer
    9 years ago

    Thx cliff and joann - how are those plants planted - in gravel or what? just stuck into the water? One problem Ive had with extending rocks further down into the water even though it looks better it seems water that gets behind the rocks sometimes starts to stink, probably because its not circulating so much back there? Stinky water = bad bacteria, no? Ive not had much luck with plants - marsh marigold, water cress etc. They don't do well and when I remove the pots from the water the soggy soil has that same bad smell. I assume Im getting enough nitrate from the fish poop because the string algae does OK

  • cliff_and_joann
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    kasha, the shelves are all around the pond.

    they are about 15" deep and 12" wide. They are just dug out and covered

    with liner. the rocks are piled on top all the way up, then extended onto

    the ground. The plants are both planted in pots and planted by just tucked

    behind the rocks in bare root.

    Each spring we just hose the rocks to remove any muck build up behind

    them. The rest of the season we just leave them in tact, except for our

    beach area which we hose every few weeks or so.

  • cliff_and_joann
    9 years ago

    An attempt at posting a video directly.



  • Debbie Downer
    9 years ago

    Thanks - very helpful! Cant wait for it to be spring so I can get out there and re-do my edges. The video gives one hope that someday it may be spring again!

  • Mike Lachance
    9 years ago

    I keep a ledge inside the liner that I build up with field stone and mortar (supported every three courses with that small netted like grating to keep the coping from breaking up around the pond. There is a world of difference with seeing stone at (and under about 6 inches) waters edge instead of the black liner. the nice thing about stone (vs. brick) is that is shouldn't look even...but more natural. Here is an example: