Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
captgeech21

Craftsman 1/2 hp garage door stops closing at 1 foot from floor

keith richardson
8 years ago

Hello! New poster here. Hoping I can find some assistance or new thoughts/avenues to try.

My wife and I purchased a home and inherited the malfunctioning garage door opener. The status when we viewed the home, was the latch for the trolley was zip tied so that the door wouldn't engage. Owner said they couldn't get it to work anymore. There is some minor damage to the aluminum slat door to the right side.


The garage door raised and lowerered by hand pretty easily. I then tried the unit (GDO, garage door opener) and it was able to raise the door, but would only close the door if I held the wall button down.

I replaced the photo eye because the sending unit was lit, but the receiver even right up against the sending unit was not lighting (both were green lights, but one never lit up). Upon using a Chamberlain replacement, the orange/green both light when placed next to each other.

After replacing eyes, the issue with needing to hold the button down to get it to close cleared up. However, my door now stops about a foot shy of the floor.

I have read the manual and viewed numerous posts on adjusting limits etc. I have messed with the down and up limits and even viewed the contact bar beneath the housing while the motor operates with both the trolley engaged and not engaged. It doesn't appear to me to be the limits or the down/up force, as I have tried all ends of the spectrum, lowest, highest, of each, etc.

However, when the trolley is not engaged with the door it works fine, goes all the way up and goes all the way down and stops where it should.

The tension springs look fine, no malformations or mishapen sections. The right track LOOKs okay, however the last wheel at the end (top) of the garage door has popped out of the track. I can put it back in and run the door, but it frequently comes out. I have tried to bend the track back but its too thick of steel. I've tried tightening bolts etc. and banging out the damage to the aluminum door. Again no real resistance when raising/lowering by hand.

My feeling now is that it is this track needing replacing or even possible the damaged panel on the door. I think it is having a similar effect that limit adjustment would, in that when the door reaches the point of the bent/damaged track, no matter of adjustment to limit or force is enough to tell the operating unit to continue putting the door down.


To clarify, when it stops a foot short, it also starts reversing back up, as if it doesn't have enough force down, etc.


Any insight would be awesome.


Also, Not sure if its from me messing with limits etc. or if it was there from years of use, but the nylon gear is worn. Not worn out yet, but there were a good amount of shavings. Still runs the door okay besides the last foot, but im sure it will need to be replaced soon.


Anyone here have any experience with tightness of the chain on the chain drive? Or adjusting the fastening arm from the trolley to the door? Would any of that have an effect on the force on the machine/limits?


paying another $50 for track would suck after paying 30 for new eyes, but it would be better than 150 for a new opener, new door, etc.


Many thanks!

Comments (7)

  • wprice23
    8 years ago

    I don't know your setup, but my brother had a problem with the sensors being too close to the door and sometimes his would do just as yours. We were able to move the sensors farther back from the wall ( 1/2" or so) and this fixed his. It seems that only occassionally on his when the door came down, it would cross the beam.

  • keith richardson
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    I was thinking it could be something like that too. However I placed the new, working sensors right in front of each other and I have watched the lights stay connected as it stops :(

    I'm at a loss now. The only thing I can think of is the minor damage is causing the door opener to freak out at any of the limit settings and it just can't get it to go all the way down.


    Thank you again for your input!

  • wprice23
    8 years ago

    You say it raises and lowers easily if you do it by hand with the GDO disconnected. I did not follow exactly if you did increase the force adjustment. Other than this I'm afraid i can offer nothing else.

  • keith richardson
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    It does lower easily and raise easily when disengaged. I have adjusted both the distance limits and force limits.

    When it lowers and raises, though it is easy enough to do, it does feel like there is a little resistance due to some minor damage to a panel and possibly bent track. Very hard to tell if the track is even bent or if it's just the door being a little misaligned.



  • loger_gw
    8 years ago

    Can you send some good pictures
    of controlling factors or concerns? I
    have a number of 1980's Craftsman Door Openers I still use. I have seen, installed and adjusted a few
    others different in the way they operate.
    Age and plastic wear can be a factor.

    1. Do you have switches on
    the track controlling the door or contacts in the by the motor?

    2. I’m saying switch’s screws
    could be worn or broken and reacting different with force.

    3. If door’s engagement guide
    travel further disengaged, resistance is detected somewhere or “faulty
    Mechanics”. Ck all plastic parts,
    adjustment screws at that point.

    4. Oil all moving parts with recommended
    oil in manual (all wheels, track/trolley and plastic “Worn Worm Gear”.

    5. The chain is usually
    spring loaded with centering adjustments to allow the spring to control the
    tension.


    Good Luck!

  • keith richardson
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Fixed it temporarily at least. The door was coming down and hitting the exterior trim too hard and stopping. So I oiled the wood and the metal on the door and it comes down.

  • loger_gw
    8 years ago

    Good Job! There is usually a fix if you spend the time experimenting
    and looking. I will often take Pictures
    that will allow me to zoom and study from the computer if I feel I’m simply not
    seeing something (hard to see or tired).

    My problem is two 1968
    one piece doors. I rebuilt from 1/8" X1-1/4" Angle and 3/8” Ply (about 1980. That allowed nice storage overhead. A 1968 spring broke last summer and they are
    no longer stocked in this area vs custom built approx 200.00 a pair, “I Think”. At least in the research and looking I found
    6 used springs for 40.00. Be fore the
    finds after 8 hrs of looking, I folded the last coil over and it hooked and worked
    (since just the hook snapped off).