Sounds like you just need to go with Bermuda...

No way. Death to the Bermuda! I pulled up a nice crispy runner, after scalping, that was over 3 feet long... Now, this time next year I may be on here posting about doing another reno due to a comeback from the Bermuda. I guess only time and money will tell, the two things I hate wasting the most.

Good luck with that. You won't be the first or the last person to stand in futile defiance of Bermuda. If it likes your climate, it will keep coming back.

OK, so we have a reno going on, with a plant date around October first. No problem. I'm guessing you're transition zone, so ground freeze is unlikely until after Christmas (not that you need anything where that would matter).

Sample Depth 6: 4 is the standard for grass, but that's no problem. I'll adjust it in the few places where it's necessary.

Exchange Capacity 15: Nice! I think you're getting a slight over-read from your higher calcium, but it's not that significant. This soil holds loads of resources and doesn't tap out easily, so testing every other to third year once balanced will be more than enough.

pH 6.7: Near perfect, if just the tiniest hair high by the time it's fully balanced. That's not a problem and we'll work to limit that. For feeding, this is one case where I'll recommend using ammonium sulfate or urea to slowly dispel the excess calcium, but it's no big deal if you don't.

OM 5%: Firmly in the Good range! Certainly always mulch mow and mow in all your fall leaves, but you don't need to make any special effort here--although you can feed organically if you prefer as more OM (within reason) certainly won't hurt!

Sulfur 10: Normal.

Phosphorus 452 (303 adjusted): Perfect to very slightly high. That's not a problem. You won't need starter fertilizer when you renovate, although I also wouldn't completely object if you used it once at that point (it's a waste, but not environmentally problematic).

Calcium 82%: High, but not ridiculous. As I mentioned above, it's certainly not a major issue (or a minor issue), but you could use ammonium sulfate or urea to slowly dispel the excess calcium over the course of years.

Magnesium 7.7%: It's pushed down a bit by the high calcium, so it's not as trim as it looks. But it's still a bit trim. We use Epsom salt to fix this, which you can get at your grocery store or drug store. The store brand is just fine. Recommendations below.

Potassium 1.1%: Again, it's pushed down by the high calcium, but it's really rather short in this case. We use potassium sulfate to fix this, which you can get at some garden or landscape shops, or have them order it for you. Online is another option.

Minor Elements:

Boron 0.4: Technically, low, although you won't see any deficiency symptoms. While not the most important element, I'll always work to move your lawn into the most optimal range on everything. Me? I'd fix this. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax.

Manganese 126: Sky high. It won't cause any problems, except that it can block other elements like iron. We simply account for that.

Iron 166: Fine, but your high manganese and very slightly high pH will both tend to block this a little bit. You won't be deficient, but your lawn color may disappoint you. Whenever you like, use Milorganite to very slowly raise this.

Recommendations for 2016:

November 1: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

November 15: Apply 2 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

Recommendations for 2017:

April 1: Apply 2 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

April 15: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax in Milorganite carrier.

May 15: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

Thanks, Morph! What do you recommend as far as nitrogen goes? Use a starter or a winter blend with no phosphorus at seed down? Do I need to up the urea after 4-6 weeks?

At seed down, if I used anything I'd probably go with Vigoro Super Green (lots of slow release N), sulfur coated urea (ditto), polymer coated urea (ditto) or an organic like Milorganite or soybean meal (ditto).

The seed won't require anything for the first few weeks of life, so using fast N at seeding time is simply a waste.

It'll want N about 30 days in, so definitely plan to feed around November 1, and again when the surrounding lawns stop growing but are still green, as long as that date is December 1 or later. If earlier, skip that last feeding.

2 more questions. I plan to use baby shampoo for soil conditioner, should I do that this week leading up to seeding or when is optimal? Also, I plan to blanket spray Tenacity at seeding. Should I half rate it and then follow up 30-45 days?

Thanks.

Tenacity's pre-emergent capabilities only last 30 days at full strength, so use it as recommended--full strength. Spray that when or just before you seed.

You can use baby shampoo any time you like. Point in fact, very dilute soap helps with water penetration, so can be an advantage on newly-spread seed (I use soap to prime seeds). Regardless, application time does not matter and it won't hurt the new seed or new sprouts.

I dropped seed on Saturday but ran into rain that prevented me from getting my tenacity app down. Here it is Tuesday, am I too late?

Go for it, but do it fast. You want the Tenacity down before radicle (embryonic root) emergence.

Your one your way! looking good

I've got some patches coming up white/purple. Should I be alarmed?

Tenacity does that bleaching of the seedlings. No worries

2 questions:

When I mow can I use the roller or I should I refrain from possibly matting the grass? Most of the grass is 2.5 to 4 inches currently so I'm going to give it a few more days, maybe a week.

What should my current watering schedule be? .5in every 3 days to promote root growth or continue to keep it moist?

Are you talking about a striping roller? I'd leave it off until the grass matures.

Half inch every 3 days sounds like a good plan. If the surface is still wet after 3 days, then delay watering until it dries out a little bit. I can go 5-7 days without watering with daytime temps in the 70s.

Sounds good. Thanks.

Looking good!

Well that turned out great, nice job.