usually.. the third year.. is when they really get going ... are you sure you want to abort the mission now??? ..

one of the reasons it might not be growing with great vigor is reflected in your duplicate post to SHADE gardening ... though shade rarely kills things.. it can slow them down ...

if you are sure ... just out of curiosity... just set yourself firmly ... and see if you can just pull it out ..;. you might be surprised ... dont hurt your back ...

if that doesnt work... cut it back .. enough to get in there with the shovel ... and dig a few inches bigger than the pot you planted ...

it really shouldnt be all that big a deal ...

i presume you are well aware whether there are any buried utilities .... if not.. dig carefully ...

ken

Thanks. I don't think they will ever be what I wanted (a hedge around 4-5 ft tall). I think in the spring I will try to yank them out and see what happens. I just didn't know how the root structure is on these. I know most trees after 2-3 years would be a nightmare to get out.

You planted yews with a spreading type of habit like might be used for tall, weed-suppressing ground cover - you needed something with a more upright and normal orientation for this situation.

Dig around them with a spade and pop out. If there is any possibility of buried utilities there work very carefully.

We're not allowed fences or lattice. There also aren't a lot of evergreens that grow in partial shade. I wanted an evergreen so it would hide the a/c in the winter also. I'm not sure if arborvitae would work- there is some sun, particularly if they are taller due to the wall. Otherwise I'd rather put some better looking perennials or annuals and just have to look at the a/c.

The yew looks very healthy to me so it appears suited to the situation. So how about just getting another yew cultivar with a more upright habit?

I think something like a Hick's Yew might work.

What climate area? Even some quite cold places can often still manage certain hardier broad-leaved evergreens, many of which are shade adapted. Rhododendrons or hollies for instance.

USDA zone 5.

z5 is about half the US and wildly divergent .... can you be a bit more specific

anyway .... in shade.. things grow slower ...it doesnt matter what you plant.. if you arent going to have the patience to let it do its own thing ... thats just reality ...

its a conifer ... commonly called a shrub.. but as a conifer.. it is a TREE ... and it grows in TREE time.. which is counted in decades ... not one or two years ...

so when you do find something ... you might want to pony up the money.. to buy a BIT large specimen ... for a little more instant gratification ... but even then.. its going to take time ...

im just trying to clarify for you the time frame.. i wish you luck ...

ken

Ken, not all conifers are trees - some are shrubs and not all grow as slowly as trees.

Many of the taller yews will work in that spot as others have suggested. Some rhododendrons (be sure to check the size as some get huge), a very few evergreen hollies, and some mountain laurels might work in that spot depending on amount of sun, soil pH (all prefer somewhat acid soil) and relative size and shape. You want something taller than wide. If you are allowed to have an obelisk you could try growing a vine up that.

Have you considered a tall planter with fountain-shaped plants such as taller grasses?

Also, is the only access for maintenance or replacement of the equipment from the front here or is there access from the back? Consider whether you need to choose a plant that a worker could squeeze by or that would regrow well after severe pruning.

is the only access for maintenance or replacement of the equipment from the front here or is there access from the back?

It also looks like there is a board like those used for the walls of the planter resting against the face of a power outlet in the bottom right of the picture. Then there is the possible problem of the walls of the planter having been installed close against the foundation(?) of the building...

Anyway if you search "sheridan nurseries plant finder" on the web you will get a plant selection tool from a large old operation in Ontario that you might like to try searching, to see what is suggested. (As a matter of interest they are the introducer of the 'Green Gem' boxwood and the 'De Groot's Spire' arborvitae).

You absolutely can remove them. Whip out your reciprocating saw and have at them. After only two or three years, they're not like to have a huge root system.

Yew is unusual for a conifer in that it will regrow after cutting down. So just sawing them off wouldn't be the whole story. The roots would need removal or killing.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. Of course, you would need to remove the roots, but it wouldn't be difficult with a relatively small root system.