Each to their own preferences and wonderful that we can all follow our bliss whether it is an island or peninsula or kitchen table or sitting on the floor in a yoga position while preparing food. My own bliss it not to have just an island but a continent. I am claustrophobic and don't like staring into walls or cabinets, I like having a view while I cook and have wonderful views so while I'm working, I'm going to enjoy them. I like to spread out while I cook and have lots of space and a 24 inch deep countertop is not going to suffice. I am lazy and like to have short pathways to and from pantries and dining areas so I'm not looping around peninsulas. I entertain a lot and have many visitors and serve casual meals buffet style and islands make good staging and buffet areas. I love seeing other kitchens and ideas and how people like to make their surroundings work for them.

Sorry, rgk, my objection is only to the canned answer to go somewhere else to get ideas on a forum designed to do just that, and assuming to know what I will and won't discuss here. "Hey, did you know about this product" is not a violation of any sacred oath. We seem to be talking about two separate things. The statement; "Or better yet, maybe I need to find someone to fabricate something for me." DEFINITELY needs a local structural engineer, given the design parameters you are looking for, but they don't have magic powers. They follow the same principles and math as everyone else. All you will end up with is a one-of-a-kind, very expensive experiment that most buyers in the future will run away from. Engineers may be responsible for a lot of successes, but they are also responsible for all the failures in a case like you are proposing. Apollo 13 vs. Space Shuttle Columbia for example. As for your original question, Most systems like insulated concrete forms, non-traditional wall systems, engineered beams, and trusses are sold WITH an engineer stamp and designed by the manufacturer, often for your specific project. In general, a system should not need any 'extra' consideration from a second engineer or architect on the job site. (for a single family dwelling in the US) If it did, then it becomes an on-site fabrication and not the system you were asking to find in the original post. Note; stipulation/objection "(b) requires additional engineering and effort." You are probably not going to find a viable 'system' solution in this case. Mostly because you are trying to defy too many basic design principles. You have gotten a good deal of incite and advice here that goes beyond just "hire an architect". That is what I like to see :) None of it is a substitute for someone local, but hopefully helps in the process. Moving the beam over the foundation and up into the attic is part of a possible solution, but with a shallow pitched roof, a beam with a span of usable length probably won't fit. One solution is to leave the ceiling in place and raise that half of the roof up to accommodate the beam. This type of construction and design using conventional materials and techniques can probably be handled by a competent design/build company. If the roof is built with engineered trusses, you will need to get the truss company's engineer involved if possible. At the point you decide to raise the roof, you will find that several other design options open up that may appeal to you and cost about the same. As others have said, this is only part of what needs to be considered when taking out that much wall. Of course, that is why you were looking for a system. One thing I would add is that if you put the beam over the foundation and cantilever the roof, the cantilevered part is subject to deflection caused by loading of the main part of the roof with snow or other factors. The design will have to eliminate or accommodate the fulcrum. The 1/8" of movement at the window header would play havoc with the ability to make the house energy efficient to say the least.

Christmas decorations are in the attic. The big Christmas tree is in the garage as I can't get it upstairs then up to the attic. Outdoor Christmas decor is also in the garage. I don't have the storage I had in my previous homes (no Basement). I bought two sets of shelves that I put in the garage that holds stuff; the Christmas decor coolers, extra paper towel, candle holders. I also have less kitchen storage than I had previously. I have granite counter tops in the kitchen and when I bought the house 8 years ago, I realized that "stuff" on the counters detracted from the beauty of the counter tops. My small appliances that aren't used often are stored on the second shelf that is right by the entry into the house. My 10 cup coffee maker, toaster, toaster oven, waffle maker, etc. along with extra canned food, cases of water, and other miscellaneous items. Yes, my car is in the garage also (a one car). My second storage space are closets....

Yes, the tiles are a greenish gray. Any suggestions for another warmer toned gray I can use for the dining room? can’t move the paint chips yet because the walls are still wet. You don’t think the Sea Haze is warm? What if I put the revere pewter in the dining room as well but had it made darker? The paint store has closed already so, unless I have this color matched in Behr (which I’m kind of afraid to do) I will have to paint next weekend now. one other question. Do I paint the doorway the color of the kitchen, the color of the dining room, or white.? I also have openings on the other side of the kitchen looking into the entryway (which I hope to paint Pashmina or darkened Revere Pewter.