What do you mean shot?

The wheel is rusted and is no longer structurally sound?

--If so you need to replace the wheels

The bearings are shot?

--Most bearings can be replaced, They usually are friction fit into the wheel and can be pressed out. There are numerous places you can buy bearings.

The tires are rotten?

--You can by new tires at place like Tractor Supply, Harbor Freight, and similar places.

Check the numbers on the tires (which will also indicate rim size) else measure tire and rim diameter then also axle diameter/size. Over the years I have found and replaced wheels on almost all my utility carts, lawn tractor, garden dump trailer etc. If you provide dimensions I asked for, I will look up the best source and lowest price for you.

I have almost always found reasonably priced rim/tire replacments (from Granger, Amazon, ebay etc.) except very recently when I was looking for wheels (rim + tire) replacement for my garden dump trailer, originally purchased from Sears about twenty years ago. Replacement wheels were prohibitively expensive although it only needed new tires which had totally deteriorated due to age. I did not want to replace with any cheap replacements since I often haul a full load of garden soil over our land. I just could not locate a reasonablly priced replacement. Then I had an idea and I talked to my car tire guy (Discount Tire) and he ordered an exact heavy duty replacement pair of tires (yes they can do that for you) and he had them in the very next day. I took the wheels off the dump trailer (that's easy and even easier on your wheel barrow), took them to the tire shop and had the tire guy mount the replacement tires with new valves etc, all for $92.77; so instead of spending $300+ on replacement wheels/tires I ended up spending less than a third and I'm good for the next twenty years.

Once you get new wheels, have you considered installing a big block hemi engine...?

@krnuttle The sidewalls of the tires are completely shredded. If I went to tractor supply, they would size a tire that works with the inner tube already inside the current tire? What might that cost for tires that size?

One thing I wonder is whether an inflatable tire is even worth having. It greatly increases the load capacity of the unit, but if I buy the non-inflatable 20" wheel shown in the photo of the 7.5 cubic foot 300 pound unit on the Amazon page I shared I do not need to worry about keeping the tire inflated. 300 pounds is probably enough for my use.

@pinebaron I will get the numbers on the tires later and return here.

Would I need a tire shop to replace the tires on this cart? Would a tire shop even be able to order such small specialty tires?

One of my options is to try to convert the cart from the heavier duty 700-pound inflatable wheel to a hard non-inflatable tire. If that is even possible, it reduces the load capacity of the cart to 300 pounds, but the upside is I stop worrying about keeping the tires inflated. Because I might use the cart six times a year, that would be a win.

I calculated that 7 cubic feet of crushed granite (i.e., a heavy load) would just about max out the 700-pound capacity. So if I went to the cheaper wheels, I would have to exercise caution to not load more than about half the volume capacity with heavy loads.

westes, really? Are you unable to shop? Go to tractor supply, wheels and tires, mounted $50 each.

my cart does not have bearings.

I do not believe that cart cost $350-600, prove me wrong.

you will probably not be able to move that cart with over 100 lbs in it.

Amazon has $20 each replacement tires with wheels for your cart.

@User I linked the Amazon page with the four versions of the product and their weight ratings and prices. Select the green word "here" in my original post.

There are Youtube videos of this particular model where the users rave about how rock solid the design is and how they are using it to carry hundreds of heavy loads. The plastic shell is quite a nice piece of high-density plastic. It feels bombproof.

Can you link the Amazon page with $20 replacement tires?

10” tire and wheel.

i do not click on links, nor do II post them.

If the tire is in as bad as you say it should be easy to remove it from the rim. (Removing a tire is the big problem) Putting the new one on is easy. You will need an air pump, though I suspect it could be done with a manual pump with difficulty.

I don't know the size but this one looks similar to yours $11

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hi-run-ct1003-wheel-barrow-tire-480-400-8-4pr-rib-ct1003?cm_vc=-10005

This one look similar also but comes on a wheel. $21

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/pneumatic-tire-ribbed-tread-16-in-x-400-8?cm_vc=-10005

Remember in buying replacements, they only need to be of a diameter that gives the cart the proper ground clearance and fit on the diameter of the axle.

@User The Amazon page for the cart is shown in the image below.

I have a Rubbermaid garden cart, maybe 20+ years old, resin construction, ~2.5-3 cu ft. Sliding back door. Cost under $200.

Not sure why someone would pay $600 for that cart. Might be discontinued, if the seller sells one, they made back their investment.

Do you have a car, able to drive? Willing to shop locally? If so, Spend some time at stores that sell the things you want, you might get an idea of what is available.

@krnuttle I believe that Rubbermaid is using a 5/8 bearing, so obviously I would need to find a tire that works with that.

Should I be trying to keep the bearing that is already on the cart and slide the new wheel over that?

Sorry for the basic questions, but I have never repaired a wheel before.

@User of course I can shop locally, although rural sellers like tractor supply are 30 miles from me. If I had a local tractor supply I would just go there since they deal with this issue constantly. A local company selling car tires might not care about such a situation. I am just trying to understand the basics of the task before I shop. The clerk who helps me at a given store might give me bad information, and I want to know enough to ask the right questions.

I recommend going to your local tractor supply/feed and fuel..Many of the things you have been looking for, both products and solutions are there.

I think you are in Hayward, maybe east of?

Based on your last response, you may have received some instore info you did not like. If you go to a store! you get to see, touch what is available, and maybe connect with someone who can help you. Do you like all of the info you get on the internet? How does the price of gravel in AZ help you?

You are hiding behind a keyboard from part of the learning/living process.

Depression, age, fragility....

@User If I had a local tractor supply, I would go there. I am near San Jose, and the closest one is in Gilroy.

For me, posting online is a way of doing my homework before I visit a local store.

westes Zone 9a California SF Bay: Let me know when you have details from tire sidewalls if still legible.

@Pinebaron Okay, now I am starting to understand it. The tires came off easily and they are 4.80/4.00-8 tires. So 4.8" width, and 4" + 8" + 4" = 16" diameter. The hub was 3" wide and is 5/8" internal diameter.

I guess the first decision I need to make is whether I want to pay extra for a "flat-free" tire. I guess that is probably worth having?

The second point I would make is that I perceive the cart would be a little better function if the wheels had more diameter, closer to 20". Is it possible to find a 20" flat-free tire that is 4.8" wide with a 3" hub width? I wonder if some shopping sites online lets you plug in these variables and then show the matching parts?

The final question is where am I likely to find these parts available locally and in stock? Home Depot and Tractor Supply both want to ship to their stores after I order. I need this functioning before next Tuesday.

Harbor Freight is in San Jose, they list 4x8 wheels and tires on their web site. Blossom Hill close to HD.

send me a message I found it for you; your original size 16"

If you look at this photo of the current generation for the 700-pound rated cart, those tires look like something Rubbermaid had an OEM design specifically for them. Those cannot be 4.8 inch wide tires, and notice inside the wheel, how the hub is deeply inset into the tire. Another online source suggests these tires are eight inches wide. Does anyone make an 800/400-8 tire with a 5/8 bearing that is 3" wide?

I found the larger tire in the photo in the last post. That tire is 18" diameter and 8" wide. It is sold by Grainger as model 22564210 and item 43HE70. Unfortunately, that is about $110 for each tire. So I am going to order the 480/400-8 and just be done with it. Hopefully this thread documents these issues for future generations. :)

Did you order from the link/information I provided or did you locate a different source?

@pinebaron I sent you a message through Houzz. I think some of those may be going to your junk mail folder. I ordered a flat free tire from Tractor Supply which was about 1/2 the price of the same flat-free tire on other sites. In my case I think flat-free is worth having. I appreciate the education that you helped to give me here on tires. This made the whole subject easy for me to understand.

To update this thread, I received the replacement wheels. After I put those on, there is a small "air gap" between the wheel and the retention clip, as shown in the first photo. I assume it is not okay to let the wheel slide horizontally on the axle? What kind of spacer is used for such cases? What would be ideal would be a kit of spacers that fit on a 5/8" axle and have different widths that I could try out for the best fit. The only kit I found was $40, but I might be searching for it using the wrong terms.

Regarding the second photo, when I install the retention pin, should I be moving that all the way through, allowing it to swing around the end of the axle, or should I stop at the mid-position where it has minimal ability to swing?

As far as the spacer that is questionable, do if you like or not

As for the cotter pin, I would use the tradtional pin and bend it around the axel. The pins you have are good IF you plan to remove them frequently. Since there they can be greased there is no need to.

@krnuttle How much horizontal slide of the wheels on the axle should be tolerated on a two-wheel cart?

I would put a spacer that would allow about 1/8" gap between the wheel and the washer. I would put the space on the inside to increase the clearance between the wheel and the cart body. I would check some where like Lowes, a good hardware store, or cut it from a piece of tubing.

Okay, the wheelbarrow is officially in service again. It only cost $70 for wheels, $50 in various tools to get it disassembled on-site, four trips back and forth to get it disassembled, and two weeks giving it citric acid baths to clear away layers of dried concrete and paint. :) So much for "free". :)

You apparently are not a routine do-it-yourselfer ;-) Every thing that you start that looks like it will be a simple cheap job, will cost 10 times what you think and take four or five times as long.

@krnuttle It's the truth

krnuttle...Isn't that some sort of "law"..a relative of murphy?