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Quartzite install - help set me up for success!

Kara Barkley
3 years ago

I have chosen a beautiful Sea Pearl quartzite for my countertops. I did all the tests to ensure that it is a true Quartzite. I have seen many of the threads on here with pictures of issues like discoloration around the edges. As I prepare for install with a very well respected fabricator, what are the questions that I should ask or information that I should give them to ensure I don’t have any of the problems I’ve seen on here?

Comments (19)

  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    find out how they're going to cut the pieces to fit your design. do you have an L? will they be turning the direction of the veining?

    for example, see how they did this one?


    before they cut, they should show you the template of the slab to make sure you like the cuts.

    for instance, that arrow piece going across the bottom corner, how will that be cut?

  • PRO
    Flo Mangan
    3 years ago

    Yep Agree with Beth. The slab you showed would be great on large island. In any case, make sure you take clear photos of the tags on the end sides of each slab you want. These have unique identification numbers for every slab. Later, if any problems arise, you have positive proof of specific slabs. Slabs with that type veining will be tricky to seam so make sure that is well planned out. Take pictures at slab yard with blue tape on cut lines. The more documentation you have the better. They also will know you are paying attention so keeps them on their toes. 😊

  • PRO
    Flo Mangan
    3 years ago

    Have you specified “edge” type yet? Quartzite is very hard stone so I recommend a “eased edge”. Just on top corner. Don’t do bottom edge. Makes slab look thinner.

  • Barbara
    3 years ago

    Regarding discoloration, I showed pictures from Houzz to my fabricator and he was able to identify and explain what it was and showed me the products he was going to use (non staining adhesive and impregnating sealer). He also squarely placed the blame for those disasters on the fabricators and didn’t try to blame the consumer. I asked him to make sure to seal the faucet drilled holes as well. I would not have to gone with him if he hadn’t known what the issue was an show to avoid it. Regarding seams and templating, agree with above.

  • Kara Barkley
    Original Author
    3 years ago

    Thank you all! I guess the benefit of having relatively little counter space is that it will all fit on one slab (using almost every inch of it!). I’ve seen the template and am happy with it. We are going with as eases edge as @Flo suggests.
    @Barbara - thanks for the info on the sealer and adhesive.

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    3 years ago

    You'd better profile your bottom edge unless you think chew marks at your dishwasher looks good.

  • PRO
    JAN MOYER
    3 years ago



    I’ve seen the template and am happy with it. We are going with as eases edge as @Flo suggests.

    " We are using almost every inch of it"

    WHERE are the seams, and is veining match addressed? Template and seam match ups are different . I am talking vein match ups. Especially if a corner turn involved

  • PRO
    Patricia Colwell Consulting
    3 years ago

    Maybe just post the layout to see if there are issues you have not thought about.

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    3 years ago

    ^ with dimensions please.

  • PRO
    Beyond Clean Tile
    3 years ago

    As Joseph indicated above, adhesive bleed (especially silicone) is almost impossible to remove.


  • User
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    A single slab of something with that much linear pattern will be a crazy quilt of non matching seams in any but the tiniest of kitchens. Most kitchens require a 2 slab purchase, and use 1 1/2 of them. A stone with a challenging pattern match will use most of 2-3 bookmatched slabs to get those seams looking just right. Sometimes the leftovers are enough to use in small spots like a hall vanity. It depends on how the cut needs to happen.


    Only 1 slab is going to be suspect to have poor seaming until proven otherwise.

  • Kara Barkley
    Original Author
    3 years ago

    Here’s the template, and you can see there’s really no seams. The only seams will be by the little piece behind the apron sink. There’s an L shape counter with the sink cut out, a peninsula with a cut out for the range, and then a small square counter below a book shelf.

    @Beyond - I didn’t test porosity. How can I avoid adhesive bleed? What questions should I ask of, or advice to give to my fabricator?

  • User
    3 years ago

    The veining runs opposite of what you’d usually expect, because there is only one slab. If you’re happy with it? I’d still want another slab, to get the veining to run the other way.

  • Kara Barkley
    Original Author
    3 years ago

    These are the cabinet drawings so you can see the layout. The blue L on the right side is a banquette, so no counters there.

  • Kara Barkley
    Original Author
    3 years ago

    @Celadon - I’m not following. Why does it matter which way it runs?

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    3 years ago

    " What questions should I ask of, or advice to give to my fabricator?"


    Ask to see in person a job he's done several years ago in the exact same material.

  • PRO
    JAN MOYER
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Celadon means.........You want the veining to run in the same direction you saw in the stone yard. Horizontally...... not vertically : ) See Beth's photo up above. Done well.

    Vertically in this case means front edge of tops to the wall behind and no.

    In truth? The bigger issue in your kitchen is distance from a big range, to THE SINK. Sorry. Rather worrisome

  • chestnut3
    last year

    Kara Barkley I was wondering how your counters are doing (any staining or silicon bleed?) and if you were able to get specific advice as to how to avoid adhesive and/or silicon bleed? Do you know what products they used?