@User can I ask why you say that? There are quite a few resources on the internet saying otherwise. But I do get where you're coming from and we have talked about doing laminate. We still might. It would definitely be easier and cheaper. I just think the epoxy looks better when done correctly.

Regardless of the finish, my question is, can you do 3/4" MDF countertops? If so, what are the building specs for it?

The MDF doesn't care if it's covered in plastic laminate or epoxy, however, it does care as to how it is supported. Look at the MDF as veneer over a strong substrate and you'll be fine.

@Joseph Corlett, LLC thank you.

Is it possible to safely achieve the 2 cm/ 3/4" countertop look using MDF and laminate/epoxy?

MDF flexes quite a bit compared to stone, and 2cm stone would need a custom tube steel subtop to manage a waterfall like that. Put your money in real 3cm stone, not thousands in steel.

Do a butcher block for the meantime. Minus any waterfall. It has no staying power and there is already a huge backlash against how inappropriate it is for most homes.

@User thanks for your reply. I did some quick research to see exactly what tube steel subtop is and found things like the photo below. Assuming this is what you're talking about, I have a couple questions for you --

1) why do you say thousands in steel? We can cut the channels and install the steel bars ourselves. I don't see how it would cost that much.

2) structurally, do you think that this type of reinforcement would be enough for an MDF countertop? Our island is 80" x 40" with a 15" overhang for seating. Keep in mind, ours would be waterfall so it will have the sides for support as well.

No, that isn’t tube steel, and that won’t support anything well. Steel on the flat flexes. Tube steel is square steel tubing, welded up into a frame, that you skin with the covering. Like an auto chassis, with the body skin on top. It needs to be designed by someone who understands the materials involved. Both of them. And it needs to be TIG welded by a fabrication shop. $$$$ All for $160 of a junk material counter.

@User Oh, I agree that sounds like a giant waste of time and money. Is that really the only way for 2cm counters, stone or wood, to be safely supported?

You should be able to accomplish it using structural laminate panels. Like Abet Laminati Stratificato HPL. I think there are other brands--both Wilsonart & Formica, I believe. Sourcing it could be a problem.

Stratificato HPL

16mm (5/8") is the thickest that Abet has.

Stone is not DIY friendly.

I thought the whole point of this was how to do it cheap until quartz could be afforded? The DIY contribution is only incidental to the budget issue.

Who knows what happens in the future.. I think the structural laminate panels make a terrific looking counter particularly for a modern aesthetic---which is what I assume the OP is seeking given that OP wants a 3/4" counter and a waterfall.

I mentioned it as an alternative because no one else had suggested it.

And because it can have a life after it serves as a counter. With stone, not so much. There just isn't much use for a discarded stone or quartz countertop. Beyond tossing it in a canyon for erosion control. Not that you will be tossing it. More like rolling it over the edge with the help of your friends.

There are premade steel counter reinforcement braces you can buy on eBay or Amazon. The key is to buy ones that work and have solid attachment to studs or whatever you're using for wall. Flat steel bars don't work. As far as MDF, after having used it for many projects, you'll need supports maybe 16" on center. I've never worked with epoxy on MDF. Is it flexible? Will it get hairline cracks and let water through to MDF? I am currently using a water resistant MDF, Medex brand, right now that might be what you need. It's even heavier than regular MDF and I was warned it's not water proof.