Cooling BTU/h 11700/11500 off the data plate.

12,000 BTU = 1 ton of air conditioning. So that being said, your choices will be few as not all manufacturer's make units this small. Most start out at around 2 tons, oversizing AC is never recommended.

In addition to that, the machine will probably only be an "entry" level machine: 13 or 14 SEER depending on where you are located. In that realm, brand doesn't matter all that much.

I service the Katy, Texas area.

We recently installed a 1.5 ton heat pump to condition a super-insulated (SIP construction) home that's nearing completion. Most manufacturers offer heat pumps from 1.5 ton capacity and up including the better manufacturers such as Trane, Lennox, and Carrier. That would provide equivalent cooling capacity to the unit you are replacing.

Efficiency becomes increasingly more important the larger the capacity of the heat pump or air conditioner. I wouldn't be too concerned about a 14 SEER rating on a 1.5 ton heat pump.

Why do you need to replace the HVAC in a seldom used condo? Efficiency savings probably won't ever pay off. The GE was manufactured in 2005.

The water heater in 2006, I can see some wanting preventative maintenance. However, a water heater lining can go anytime from 4 years to 30, so a plumbed pan is a better safeguard whether having a new model or not.

Thank you for all the great responses! We were told by our home inspector that the 3 units were near end of life and would need to be replaced soon. For peace of mind since we will not be living in the unit full time, we thought we would get replacements done sooner rather than later and install pans and water sensors below each. I like the new technology that would alert us if there was a problem. The current water tank also does not have a thermal expansion tank which we are told could lead to leaks.

I find the life expectancy of most heat pumps and air conditioners to be 15 years +/- at least in our coastal Virginia climate--and much less if they're close to the beach. If your units are circa 2005, then replacement is timely, plus you'll benefit from increased efficiency versus your existing units.

As a clarification, a thermal expansion tank is a separate item from the hot water heater. If you don't have one, then the current hot water heater wasn't properly installed.

A thermal expansion tank is only required if there is a closed loop system. This type of system has a check valve or a pressure regulating valve on the main water supply. It is likely you don't have this type of system, but you can confirm this with the condo association. I would avoid installing the expansion tank if possible. It becomes another item that leaks and has to be periodically replaced.

Like many things, there is a difference between what the code requires at a minimum and good practice. Installation of a thermal expansion tank is a best practice and helps to extend the life of a hot water heater--irrespective of whether it is required by code. If you've ever had a T&P valve on a hot water heater lift, you know that they rarely if ever reseat properly. The result is a routine drip, drip, drip from the overflow line. The protection afforded by the expansion tank minimizes the likelihood that the T&P valve will lift due to thermal expansion of water during heating. A thermal expansion tank also helps to mitigate water hammer from fast closing valves which, in my experience, can occur in systems without check valves or backflow prevention. For the small incremental cost of the thermal expansion tank I consider it a good investment.

I agree thermal expansion tanks are inexpensive. It is not a cost issue, but one of reliability. The their average life of an expansion tank is 5 - 10 years according what I have read. They eventually fail and leak. They become another potential problem that can be avoided.

In all the houses I have lived, I have never had a thermal expansion tank and never had a temperature and pressure valve open. My last two water heaters lasted approximately 18 years each. The failures were due to rust at the bottom of the tank.

Just to throw a curveball, I have a house with a furnace going on 40 years. It is well maintained, and as long as it works, it makes no sense to replace it with another newer 80% unit. And spending the money on a 96% unit now would achieve very little return as the house is as leaky as it was in 1982. If I would have blindly followed a house inspector's advice when the unit was 25 years old that "it was past the end of life (which is just based on a general 15 year number)," I would have missed another 15 years of service life and counting. But a technician who can look at the blower, the wiring, check for cracks, etc and can vouch it's humming is better than just a rule of thumb.

I use 12-15 years for AC and 20-25 years for furnace as standard expected lifetimes for planning purposes. They can last longer (or not as long).

If you have temperature extremes it's good not to wait until the unit completely fails - because that's generally in a heat wave or -20 when everyone is having HVAC problems.

That said, most things on a furnace can be easily replaced except the heat exchanger - and that should be inspected each year. Many things on an AC unit can be easily replaced until you get into rotted coils or a damaged compressor.

Water heaters generally last 10-15 years here with the hard water. I don't try to see how many extra years I can get out of a water heater because I'd rather it not open up. Water heaters are not unlike brakes or tires on your car... you don't wait until they fail to replace them because the problems that can cause.

If you have the money to replace the units and they are at the end of their expected life span, do it and avoid the hassle of an unplanned breakdown.

I agree with Mike Home - if you have a PRV or a check valve on your water main, you are required to have an expansion tank. If you don't, then an expansion tank provides no benefit and will be one more thing to potentially leak.

Furnaces don't have compressors nor the same level of sophisticated piping and controls that heat pumps and air conditioners do. Their life expectancies are indeed longer-- by a good bit and with minimal maintenance required.

The life expectancy of a newly purchased water heater is probably 10 years at best. They don't make 'em like they use to.

I would be impressed if an inducer motor lasted 20-25 years on a furnace. They do make hot water heaters like they used to. But you have to be prepared to pay for it.

I would be impressed if an inducer motor lasted 20-25 years on a furnace.

They can, but probably not in your climate Mike. This equation comes down to use. The more you use it, the greater the chance you lose it.

While they can fail here, it's typically more of a maintenance issue than anything else. If garbage some how gets into the flue assembly of the furnace, impedes the blower wheel --- essentially that can burn up the motor. But because this climate where I live has more heat related issues associated with "cooling" than anything else you can clean out the blockage and more often than not the inducer motor is usally ok.

Furnaces here get a light work out, so they can last much longer.

We have finally gotten an estimate from the HVAC company to replace existing GE units with 2 vertical Friedrich P-Tac (VHA12K34RTP) units. Each are 12,000 BTU and 410A refrigerant. When replacing they will leave existing duct work but install new drain lines and drain pans. They will also remove the existing equipment and provide 1 yr warranty on parts. The quote is $9,810 which sound high but wanted to see if anyone had experience with these units. How do they rate relative to other brands? The condo is located in Greenville, SC.

TYIA for any feedback you can provide!