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Material for intermediate landings on oak stair tread staircase?

Nina Lauderdale
2 years ago

What material for intermediate landings w/ oak stair treads?


Any thoughts on how to handle this staircase issue? *


I was thinking of using these oak stair treads: https://www.flooranddecor.com/stair-parts/unfinished-1-1-16in.-box-tread---48in.-100597533.html , which are half the price of the "stair parts" places. I think Home Depoot has similar.


But I have two trapezoidal intermediate landings and not sure what material for them. The floors are not hardwood,** so buying oak tongue and groove flooring would be an extra thing (but not out of the question).


Suggestions I’ve been given:


1) Floor & Decor salesman:

Use oak plywood. Fronted by their oak stairnose that coordinates with the treads.


Issues:

a) There would be a gap between plywood and the oak stairnose.

b) Contractor has concerns about needing large screws to keep plywood down.

c) Contractor says one piece (plywood) wouldn’t look good on landing.



2) Contractor:

Use 1” x 6” oak planks.


Issues:

a) There would be multiple gaps, i.e. between each plank.



3) Google:

Landing tread and tongue and groove flooring

https://www.stair-treads.com/landings-in-the-staircase

https://www.woodstairs.com/what-is-landing-tread/


Issues:

a) Coordinating the landing tread with the Floor and Decor treads, in look and thickness. Home Depot

b) Finding a landing tread that satisfies (a) and will also work with tongue and groove flooring.

c) Plywood subflooring of stair landing is probably poorly built.


--------


* CONTEXT:


Project needs to finish soon (materials need to be in stock; no waiting weeks for availability of staircase specialist) and not be expensive.


We’ve been in multiple hotel rooms and AirBnBs for 3.5 months due to mold remediation and build back; the move-in date has been delayed 5 times. Almost out of money snd sanity. For important reasons, we cannot move back in until the new wood stairing (formerly carpet over crappy “sub-stair") is completed.



** Downstairs is 11 yo hand-scraped engineered wood; upstairs is newly installed laminate. I could have that laminate installed on stairs, but have read that laminate stairnose molding can fail over time and that laminate on stairs is particularly slippery.

Comments (8)

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    2 years ago

    The veneer on plywood is 1/64" thick. Completely unsuitable for flooring.

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    2 years ago

    Go with the second choice. Glue up your own winder slabs with solid square stock if, you cannot order it. You will save money and time. All stair treads are glued up 1x slabs. It helps to keep it flat.

  • Nina Lauderdale
    Original Author
    2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    @G & S Floor Service

    That sounds good, but, sorry, I dont understand it all, and I tried googling.

    So far I can't find winder treads in stock. What is solid square stock? Is that the 1 x 6 oak planks, but glued together so the seems don't expand?

    What do you mean by: "It helps to keep it flat?"

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    2 years ago

    You mentioned trapezoid landing. Can you post a picture of it?

  • Nina Lauderdale
    Original Author
    2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    @G & S services

    Well, I found a stair place, and they have complete landings. They look just like the treads, same bullnose front, same build of strips glued together, but they are 4’ x 4’ or (5’ x 5’).

    This place does installations as well as sales (but scheduling weeks out).

    He offered to tell me what I should be charged for labor. In the process, I showed him the crappy subfloor and I explained that the contractor says the labor will be expensive (especially versus the laminate labor) because removing the existing treads snd landings is labor intensive (due in part to nails versus screws and irregular nailing pattern).

    The sales guy asked why they are doing all that removal, and he explained how they hanfle my situation:

    ———-

    [sorry pictures are split up. 3rd is at bottom)





    Cut off part of the 2x12 tread to remove the overhanging part. Do the cutting IN PLACE. The 2 x 12 is now flush with riser — no overhang..


    Install the new tread on top of the old. It will overhang.


    install the new riser to cover the front edge of the old tread where you cut it off.


    NOTE: It does mean that the first step is taller by 1-1/16” and the top step to the landing is shorter. All the intermediate steps will have the same height as before.


    —————


    Any thoughts? My contractor thinks it will cause a trip hazard (which is what I said of the laminate stairnose lip at the 2nd floor.) But we are both afraid of what we’ll find under the treads and landings.



  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    2 years ago

    Check your local building code for maximum stair rise (height). It should be 8 1/4" between treads. That will determine whether you need to remove what's there or not.


    As for your landing, I would install a nosing and matching flooring for the landing. That would be the easiest and less expensive way. Incase, you make a mistake, individual boards can be replaced.


    You can install a large slab. It would be a pain for that size. Installation is similar to installing a countertop. Make a template, glue up your 1x square stock, mill in your nosing edge, trace template, cut, dry fit, adjust, re-cut, glue, install and nail. If, you make a mistake on a slab you would need to replace entire slab. That gets expensive and time consuming.



  • meanjeans48
    last year

    Nina, I just saw your post. I had a similar issue. I had a winder stair with 2 landings, each had 2 triangular treads. The stairs are red oak. I used 3/4” red oak t&g flooring with a red oak nosing.
    I fabricated it into one piece by gluing the t&g together. I think it turned out well.
    I hope you found a good solution.
    Just posting photo of one landing. Still waiting for stain & paint on risers, then stair skirting.

  • AJCN
    last year
    last modified: last year

    We hired a stair company to do the whole project; they did just like meanjeans48 just posted. We have a wonky kinda-trapezoid shaped landing with a curved side.

    My contractor thinks it will cause a trip hazard (which is what I said of the laminate stairnose lip at the 2nd floor.) But we are both afraid of what we’ll find under the treads and landings.

    We put hardwoods on the landing which are 1/4" thick and the cap/nosing at the top is 1/4" thick so there was no lip/tripping hazard. But this same company did my sister's stairs and she has laminate upstairs. I'm not exactly sure how they handled it, but I think they milled the cap/nosing down to meet up with the thickness of her laminate.

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